123 Best Sights in Guatemala

Perhaps the most beautiful of Guatemala's natural wonders, El Boquerón is a narrow limestone canyon whose 180-meter (590-foot) walls are covered in foliage heavy with hanging moss. Hummingbirds dance around lavish blooms, blue morpho butterflies flutter between branches, and kingfishers dive at minnows. Sometimes howler monkeys visit the trees nearby—listen for their thunderous cries in the late afternoon. All along the canyon you can climb rocks and explore caves filled with clinging bats. Close to the entrance is a turnoff past a giant ceiba tree that leads to several thatch huts along the river; the proprietors, Antonio and Miguel, provide roughly fashioned kayukos (canoes) that you can rent for a ride through the canyon. The water is clean and cool, and great for swimming except after a heavy rain, when all the local rivers turn a muddy brown.

Standing watch over the square is this gleaming white Dominican church, Guatemala's most intriguing, busy with worshippers all day and late into the night. The structure dates from 1540, built on the site of an ancient temple, and locals say a block of stone near the massive front doors is all that remains of the altar. The Quiché people still consider Chichicastenango their spiritual city. Perhaps no church in the country better represents the concept of syncretism, the blending of theologies, than does Santo Tomás. Church officials look the other way as Mayan ceremonies are still practiced here today. In fact, once the daily 9 am mass ends, the rest of the day and evening are given over to indigenous rituals conducted by shamans (curanderos in Spanish, or chuchkajaues in Quiché), who wave around pungent incense during the day, and at night toss rose petals and pine needles into a raging fire right on the steps of the church as part of purification rituals.

Take care: If you are at all sensitive to heavy fragrance, the incense aroma can be overpowering.

The age-old ritual has darkened the once-white steps—18 steps correspond to the months in the Mayan calendar—leading to the church entrance.

Outsiders should not pass through the front doors. Instead, enter through the door via the courtyard on the building's right side. Also, under no circumstances should you take photos inside the church.

Inside, candles are affixed to 12 tablets embedded in the floor, four each representing sun, moon, and rain. Curanderos place conjoined candles there on behalf of married couples, solitary candles on behalf of single people. Yellow candles represent entreaties for business affairs; blue, for rain; green, for agriculture; and white, for health.

The city's best museum, the Ixchel Museum of Indigenous Dress, focuses on textiles of Guatemala's indigenous community, with an impressive array of handwoven fabrics from 120 highland villages, some of which date from the 19th century. It will provide you with a good background in the regional differences among textiles before you head out to the highlands. You'll also find sculptures, photographs, and paintings, including works by Andres Curruchich, an influential Guatemalan folk painter. Multimedia and interactive weaving displays make the museum engaging for all ages—watch one of the short introductory videos describing the museum's holdings to get you grounded—and there's a café, a bookstore, and a terrific gift shop. The only drawback is its location—at the bottom of a long hill at the Universidad Francisco Marroquín.

Although the region was home to Mayan communities as early as 600 BC, Tikal itself wasn't established until sometime around 200 BC. One of the first structures to be built here was a version of the North Acropolis. Others were added at a dizzying pace for the next three centuries. By AD 100 impressive structures like the Great Plaza had already been built. But even though it was a powerful city in its own right, Tikal was still ruled by the northern city of El Mirador. It wasn't until the arrival of a powerful dynasty around AD 300 that Tikal arrogated itself to full power. King Great Jaguar Paw sired a lineage that would build Tikal into a city rivaling any of its time. It's estimated that by AD 500 the city covered more than 18 square miles (47 square km) and had a population of close to 100,000.

The great temples that still tower above the jungle were at that time covered with stucco and painted with bright reds and greens, and the priests used them for elaborate ceremonies meant to please the gods and assure prosperity for the city. What makes these structures even more impressive is that the Maya had no metal tools to aid in construction, had no beasts of burden to carry heavy loads, and never used wheels for anything except children's toys. Of course, as a hierarchical culture they had a slave class, and the land was rich in obsidian, a volcanic glass that could be fashioned into razor-sharp tools.

By the 6th century Tikal governed a large part of the Mayan world, thanks to a leader called Caan Chac (Stormy Sky), who took the throne around AD 426. Under Caan Chac, Tikal became an aggressive military and commercial center that dominated the surrounding communities with a power never before seen in Mesoamerica. The swamps protected the city from attack and allowed troops to spot any approaching enemy. Intensive agriculture in the bajos (lowlands) provided food for the huge population. A valuable obsidian trade sprang up, aided by the city's strategic position near two rivers.

Tikal thrived for more than a millennium, forming strong ties with two powerful centers: Kaminal Juyu, in the Guatemalan highlands, and Teotihuacán, in Mexico City. The city entered a golden age when Ah-Cacao (Lord Chocolate) ascended the throne in AD 682. It was Ah-Cacao and his successors who commissioned the construction of the majority of the city's most important temples. Continuing the tradition of great structures, Ah-Cacao's son commissioned Temple I, which he dedicated to his father, who is buried beneath it. He also ordered the construction of Temple IV, the tallest temple at Tikal. By the time of his death in 768 Tikal was at the peak of its power. It would remain so until its mysterious abandonment around AD 900.

For almost 1,000 years Tikal remained engulfed by the jungle. The conquistadors who came here searching for gold and silver must have passed right by the overgrown ruins, mistaking them for rocky hills. The native Peténeros certainly knew of the ancient city's existence, but no one else ventured near until 1848, when the Guatemalan government dispatched archaeologists to the region. Tikal started to receive international attention in 1877, when Dr. Gustav Bernoulli commissioned locals to remove the carved wooden lintels from across the doorways of Temples I and IV. These were sent to a museum in Basel, Switzerland.

In 1881 and 1882 English archaeologist Alfred Percival Maudslay made the first map showing the architectural features of this vast city. As he began to unearth the major temples, he recorded his work in dramatic photographs—you can see copies in the museum at Tikal. His work was continued by Teobert Maler, who came in 1895 and 1904. Both Maler and Maudslay have causeways named in their honor. In 1951 the Guatemalan air force cleared an airstrip near the ruins to improve access for large-scale archaeological work. Today, after more than 150 years of digging, researchers say that Tikal includes some 3,000 significant buildings. Countless more are still covered by the jungle.

The Petén-based ARCAS, whose name is the Spanish acronym for "Association for Rescue and Conservation of Wildlife," maintains an operation in Hawaii National Park, east of Monterrico near the Salvadoran border. ARCAS is always looking for volunteers, both experts and lay people, with a passion for conservation.

The only remnant of the once-enormous Convent of St. Catherine is this beautiful orange-yellow arch that spans 5 Avenida Norte, a street locals call Calle del Arco. The convent was founded in 1613 with only four nuns, but by 1693 its growing numbers forced it to expand across the street. The arch was built to allow the sisters to pass from one side to the other unseen. The structure today serves as the iconic symbol of the city.

Artesanos de San Juan is a cooperative of 58 artisans who weave textiles and sell from their showroom just north of the dock.

In Panajachel, both Atitlán Solutions

It's not exactly a game park in Kenya, but Auto Safari Chapín creates a Guatemalan version of the experience. This large outdoor zoo gives you a drive-through safari encounter. Among the 100 species of animals here, the facility is especially strong in it population of giraffes, zebras, hippos, and rhinos.

With around 1,500 acres of rainforest, Biotopo Cerro Cahuí near El Remate is one of the most accessible wildlife reserves in El Petén. It protects a portion of a mountain that extends to the eastern edge of Lago Petén Itzá, so there are plenty of opportunities for hiking. Two trails put you in proximity of birds like ocellated turkeys, toucans, and parrots. As for mammals, look up to spot the long-armed spider monkeys or down to see squat rodents called tepezcuintles. Tzu'unte, a 4-mile (6-km) trail, leads to two lookouts with views of nearby lakes. The upper lookout, Mirador Moreletii, is known by locals as Crocodile Hill, because from the other side of the lake it looks like the eye of a half-submerged crocodile. Los Ujuxtes, a 3-mile (5-km) trail, offers a panoramic view of three lakes. Both hikes begin at a ranger station (with toilets), where English-speaking guides are sporadically available. Leave early in the morning to beat the heat and bring plenty of water and bug spray. Some robberies and attacks on tourists have taken place in the reserve, so ask locally in El Remate about safety conditions before you explore on your own.

The northern banks of the Golfete, an expansive body of water between Lago Izabal and Río Dulce, are covered by the 17,790-acre Biotopo Chocón Machacas. Among the stretches of virgin rain forest and the extensive mangrove swamp here are gentle manatees—shy marine mammals also known as sea cows because of their enormous size. Manatees are as elusive as quetzals, so as you boat through the reserve you're more likely to see other animals such as sea otters. Some of the creeks go through thick forests where giant mahogany, ceiba, and mangrove trees hang over the water to form tunnels so thick they block out the sun. A tiny island surrounded by the park's dozens of creeks and lagoons has a well-maintained 1-km (.5-mi) nature trail that is easily walked by visitors with stiff boating legs. The trail has such interesting examples of old-growth trees as the San Juan, a tall, straight tree with yellow blossoms, and such exotic plants as orchids and bromeliads.

The only way to get to the reserve is on a 45-minute boat trip from Río Dulce or Livingston. Most launches up and down the river will stop at the park entrance if requested, but they rarely enter the park. Most major hotels on the Río Dulce rent boats with guides for individual or group tours.

A 2,849-acre tract of cloud forest along the road to Cobán, the Biotopo del Quetzal was created to protect its resplendent namesake species, which is endangered because of the indiscriminate destruction of the country's forests.

The reserve offers the chance to see the quetzal in its natural habitat during its mating season, between April and June. Oddly enough, the best place to see the birds is not in the park itself, but in the parking lot of the Ranchito del Quetzal, 1½ km (1 mi) north. Since it is easier to spot quetzals around dawn or dusk, it's worth spending a night in the area. Even if you don't catch a glimpse of the legendary bird, there are plenty of other species to spot—you're actually far more likely to see a brilliant emerald toucan than you are a quetzal.

Expect rain here year-round, or at least the Verapaces' famed, drizzly chipi-chipi. (March and April clock in as the least-wet months.) At altitudes ranging from 1,500 to 2,300 meters (4,900 to 7500 feet), temperatures here average 16°C (60°F). The resulting luxuriant greenery of the cloud forest is gorgeous in its own right. One of the last remaining cloud forests in Guatemala, the Biotopo del Quetzal is a vital source of water for the region's rivers. Moisture that evaporates from Lago Izabal settles here as fog, which provides sustenance for the towering old-growth trees. Plants like lichens, hepaticas, bromeliads, and orchids abound.

If you're lucky, you can see howler monkeys swinging above the two well-maintained trails, the 2-km (1-mi) Los Helechos (The Ferns) and the 4-km (2½-mi) Los Musgos (The Mosses). The latter takes a short detour past a series of beautiful waterfalls. Plan on 45 minutes to an hour for the shorter trail and about double that for the longer hike. Both trails cross a river with concrete bathing pools where you can swim if you don't mind the cold. An interpretive guide is available at the stand at the trailheads.

The Biotopo Monterrico, officially, the Monterrico Natural Reserve for Multiple Uses, encompasses 6,916 acres along Guatemala's Pacific coast and includes everything from mangrove swamps to dense tropical forests. This is a haven for ornithologists, as the reserve is home to more than 100 species of migratory and indigenous birds. Marine turtles swim ashore from July to January, and you can often see them digging nests for their eggs at night. We recommend an organized tour of the reserve. Although the visitor center sits in town a couple of blocks east of Calle Principal, visiting on your own is logistically difficult. Naturaltours (East of Calle Principal 060245958–9491) leads boat tours—in Spanish only—of the canal, mangroves, and lagoons. Rise and shine, for they begin at 5 am, an hour necessary to take advantage of the best wildlife-viewing opportunities.

Across from the Iglesia de Santo Tomás is this squat little chapel. It doesn't attract the attention that its much larger neighbor does, but from its steep steps—there are 13, to acknowledge the months in the lunar calendar, or the 13 movements of the body (neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles)—you'll have a nice view of the market. As with the Santo Tomás church,

photography is prohibited inside.

This is the place to come for background information on the rainbow of textiles you'll see when you head out to the highlands. Exhibits present the utilitarian "how it's made" facts, delve into the cultural meaning of the patterns, and show how designs differ from region to region. Prices tend to be higher in the museum gift shop than other places around the country. It's near the central market, several blocks from the city center; call if you need transportation.

K'ojom means "music" in various Mayan languages, and Casa K'ojom---one of the three museums that make up Centro Cultural La Azotea---highlights the musical traditions of Guatemala's vastly diverse indigenous population. An interesting 15-minute documentary film is a good introduction for the newcomer touring the collection of musical instruments and other artifacts. A gift shop sells locally made crafts, simple instruments, and recordings of Guatemalan music.

A short loop through this beautifully restored colonial mansion takes you through courtyards and several rooms containing decorative objects, including original oil paintings, fine ceramic dishes, and other artifacts that have been in the house since its original construction in 1636. An English-speaking guide is usually available. Tours must be arranged at least one day in advance with a minimum of five people. Specify that you want an English-speaking guide if you need one

Once an important Maya trade route, the Río Dulce later became the route over which the conquistadores sent the gold and silver they plundered back to Spain. All this wealth attracted Dutch and English pirates, who attacked both the ships and the warehouses on shore. Spanish colonists constructed this fortress in 1595 to guard the inland waterway from pirate incursions. A 1999 earthquake in this region destroyed the river pier and damaged portions of the fort. If you wish to visit, rather than simply see the structure from the water, you'll need to approach the park overland (not upriver)—all best accomplished on an organized shore excursion.

The butter-yellow Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción stands guard over the main square, and dates from 1874.

Upon your first peek inside, you may wonder why the cathedral of Central America's preeminent colonial city seems so small. That's because what you see is one of only two remaining chapels in what was once the city's main house of worship. The lovely white cathedral (Santiago Apóstol) was completed in 1680 but destroyed in an earthquake less than 100 years later. Out back are the stark but magnificent ruins of the original cathedral—well worth a look for the nominal admission price. (Enter around the side on 5 Calle Oriente to visit the ruins.) Although restoration is underway, there are no plans to reopen the old cathedral as a house of worship. Today's smaller church (San José) is technically not a cathedral, but instead a parish church, part of the Archdiocese of Guatemala City. It holds an honorary catedral designation in deference to Antigua's onetime role as capital of Central America.

The whitewashed church bordering the main square is worth peeking into, although it is quite understated. To the right of the cathedral is the convent. Built in the late 1500s, it is one of Cobán's oldest surviving buildings, and now serves as the diocesan offices. In front, an odd, modern orange-and-yellow bandstand mars the central park and blocks your ability to get a good photo of the cathedral. Residents have dubbed it "the tortilla press," and most would be just as happy to see it torn down.

On the southeastern corner of Parque Centro América, this cathedral dates from 1535. All that remains of the original building (Espíritu Santo) is the facade, which features life-size saints that look down upon worshippers headed here to pray and is offset to the left of the newer cathedral (Los Altos), with its own front, constructed in 1899.

Built between 1778 and 1867, Guatemala City's cathedral replaced the old Catedral de Santiago Apóstol in Antigua, destroyed in that city's 1773 earthquake. The structure is a rare example of colonial architecture in the Old City. Standing steadfast on the eastern end of the Plaza Mayor, it is one of the city's most enduring landmarks, having survived the capital's numerous 20th-century earthquakes. The ornate altars hold outstanding examples of colonial religious art, including an image of the Virgen de la Asunción, the city's patron saint.

Off a courtyard on the cathedral's south side—enter through the church—stands the Museo de la Arquidiócesis de Santiago Guatemala, the archdiocesan museum with a small collection of colonial religious art and artifacts.

CECON, based at Guatemala City's Universidad de San Carlos, operates the Biotopo Monterrico and an interesting in-town visitor center that documents the life cycle of the turtles, as well as iguanas and caimans. It also manages Monterrico's most popular event, and one of Guatemala's most fun: the weekly turtle release during the July to January nesting season. Each Saturday at 5:30 pm the week's hatchlings return to the sea in a well-attended event. For a Q10 ticket you can sponsor a turtle, and release it at the starting line, and watch it scurry across the sand and make it to the finish line. The tide is the goal, of course—whoever said turtles are slow never witnessed this race. Win or lose, your Q10 goes to a good cause.

Upriver about 10 miles (17 km) from Sayaxché are the impressive ruins of Ceibal, best accessed by boat from Sayaxche. Frequently rendered "Seibal" in English, the site takes its name from the many canopy-like ceiba trees, the national tree of Guatemala, in the area. Ceibal achieved prominence in ancient times serving as a tollgate collecting tribute from barges plying La Pasión river. Its archaeological attractions are several restored temples, including the only circular one known to exist. Here you will also find intricately carved stelae—dozens in all—some of the best preserved in the region. Interestingly, a number of anomalies were found in these monuments, which hint at a foreign influence, most likely from the Toltecs of central Mexico. Carvings on structures here show dates corresponding to about AD 900 and are some of the latest among Mayan ruins in Mesoamerica. Ceibal is now thought to have undergone two distinct periods of growth, one in the late pre-Classic period and another in the late Classic period, the two interrupted by centuries of abandonment. The area is quite marshy, and rife with mosquitoes; lather up with insect repellent. There are buses from Santa Elena--Flores to Sayaxché, and from there you can get to Ceibal by boat on the La Pasión River or by partly dirt road by taxi or car. Tour companies in Flores can also arrange trips to Ceibal. The Sayaché area is considered a center for Mexican drug cartels, and large farms and tracts of land are said to be owned by narcotraffickers.

Filled with brightly painted mausoleums, the town's cemetery is one of the most colorful in the highlands. You'll be treated to wonderful views of the city's red rooftops. Among the headstones topped with crosses you'll doubtless find candles and incense—evidence of Mayan rituals. We recommend visiting only with an INGUAT guide. A few robberies of tourists have occurred. If you don't want to walk all the way to the cemetery, you can still get a nice photo from the street in front of the Mayan Inn.