5 Best Restaurants in Polk Gulch, San Francisco

Chef and co-owner Suzette Gresham has elicited swoons over the years with high-end but soulful Italian cooking that is worth every penny. Her cuttlefish "tagliatelle" is a star of the menu, which features both classic and cutting-edge dishes. Dinners are prix fixe, with three, four, or five courses and several choices within each course. Co-owner Giancarlo Paterlini oversees the service, and his son Gianpaolo presides over the roughly 2,000-bottle list of Italian wines. The room, in a former chapel, with a vaulted ceiling and terra-cotta and pale-ocher palette, is refined but never stuffy.

Half fish market and half diner, this small, slim, family-run seafood operation, open since 1912, has no tables, just a narrow marble counter with about 18 stools. Some locals come in to buy perfectly fresh salmon, halibut, crabs, and other seafood to take home; everyone else hops onto one of the rickety stools to enjoy a dozen oysters, other shellfish, or a bowl of clam chowder—the only hot food served. All of the seafood is served up with a side of big personality from the jovial folks behind the counter, who make you feel like a regular. Come before 11 am or after 2 pm to avoid a long wait, and bring a full wallet: old-school Swan takes cash only.

This legendary 24-hour doughnut shop has been a neighborhood anchor since the 1960s. The homemade doughnuts, whether an apple fritter or classic raised maple, are always excellent, at 10 am or 10 pm. If you're particularly ambitious and hungry, give "Bob's Challenge" a go; if you eat one truly giant doughnut in three minutes, you get a T-shirt and induction in Bob's Hall of Fame.

Van Ness's temple to a British Sunday roast is one of San Francisco's most timeless dinner experiences. Waiters continuously wheel prime rib carving stations around a sprawling complex that feels like the vast dining hall of a Cotswolds manor, complete with fireplaces and chandeliers. The prime rib dinners, including potatoes, creamed spinach, and Yorkshire pudding, are bountiful and consistently excellent. Meanwhile, the martinis are reliably large and stiff (complete with a sidecar), adding to the whole mystique.

Paris's joie de vivre is everywhere at this teahouse-patisserie-bakery that looks like it should be in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. The sweets and baked goods are just as magnificent as the vintage Parisian atmosphere. Come early for a croissant, but come back for a leisurely lunch and take home (or to the hotel) a baguette and a few ornate desserts.