4 Best Sights in The Deep South, Belize

The Mopan Maya village of San Antonio, 35 miles (56 km) west of Punta Gorda, is Toledo's second-largest town, with a population of about 1,000. Despite the town's name, St. Louis, the French king, is its patron saint. It was settled by people from the Guatemalan village of San Luis, who brought their devotion to their patron and protector with them. The impressive village church, built of stones carted from surrounding Maya ruins, has a stained-glass window donated by another city with a connection to the saint: St. Louis, Missouri. Cacao harvesting has brought a bit of development, prosperity, and infrastructure to San Antonio not seen in the region's other Maya villages. Yet, the people of San Antonio haven't forgotten their ancient heritage: each June 13, they take to the streets for a festival that dates back to pre-Columbian times. The San Antonio waterfall sits a mile outside of town. It cascades a scant eight feet over smooth limestone and is a popular gathering spot for picnickers (and hummingbirds). The road to the Guatemala border—still no official border crossing, but one day, perhaps—passes through San Antonio Village, making access easy. No official accommodation options exist here, but overnight stays can be arranged with local families through the Toledo Ecotourism Association (T.E.A.).

Although the Maya are by far the largest population in rural Toledo, the district also forms part of Belize's Garifuna homeland. Barranco, a small village of fewer than 150 people about an hour by road from Punta Gorda, is the largest Garifuna center in Toledo. This southernmost coastal village in Belize has electricity, a couple of shops, a bar, a police station, a health clinic, and a school. Old-timers lament that young people don't want to stay in Barranco; they leave for the bright lights of Punta Gorda, Belize City, or beyond. In fact, remittances sent back home from those who are working elsewhere contribute substantially to the village's economy. One local kid who made good was Andy Palacio, the famed punta rock musician. A guided village tour includes, in addition to a visit to Palacio's gravesite, stops at the Dabuyaba (Garifuna temple), the House of Culture, and a cassava factory. Lunch in a local home is also possible. TIDE Tours, PG Tours, and other tour operators offer trips to Barranco, or you can drive yourself.

You could find yourself in this Kek’chi Maya village of 400 people if you book one of the area homestays with the Toledo Ecotourism Association (T.E.A.). Residents here are accustomed to visitors and actively participate in their programs. St. Michael is the patron of the town; his statue stands guard over the altar in the parish church. The aroma of homemade tortillas wafts from homes as you walk down the street. The Rio Grande becomes a veritable beehive of community activity on laundry day.

Belize's largest Kek'chi Maya community is the village of San Pedro Columbia (population 700). It's a cheerful cluster of brightly painted buildings and thatch houses off the San Antonio Road. Several local women sell hand-woven embroidery.

The Maya site of Lubaantun is two miles away.

The unusual facade of the local Catholic church is made up of stones said to be taken from Lubaantun.