316 Best Sights in Turkey

On the tranquil, uninhabited islet of Akdamar, among the wild olive and almond trees, stand the scant remains of a monastery that include the truly splendid Church of the Holy Cross. Built in AD 921 by an Armenian king, Gagik Artsruni of Vaspurakan, the compound was originally part of a palace, but was later converted to a monastery. Incredible high-relief carvings on the exterior make the church one of the most enchanting spots in Turkey. Much of the Old Testament is depicted here: look for Adam and Eve, David and Goliath, and Jonah and the whale. Along the top is a frieze of running animals; another frieze shows a vineyard where laborers work the fields and women dance with bears; and, of course, King Gagik, almost hidden above the entrance, is depicted, offering his church to Christ. The monastery operated until WWI, and since 2010 annual religious services have been allowed, usually in early September.

There are a handful of small cafés and gift shops on the island, and a few coves that offer the opportunity to swim in the alkaline lake. One of the most charming things about the island may be the large number of gray rabbits scampering about. To reach Akdamar from Van, take a minibus (20 TL) or follow Route 300 to Gevaş, which is about 20 miles away. Just past Gevaş, you'll see ferries waiting at the well-marked landing to collect the required number of passengers—between 10 and 15—for the 20-minute ride. Normally it costs 30 TL per person but if there aren't enough passengers the round-trip is around 300 TL. Boats return to the mainland hourly until 6 pm.

The sandy beach at Alaçatı, about 6 km (nearly 4 miles) south of town, is ideal for windsurfing, with strong winds and few waves. Unfortunately, there is only a small public beach here, but many of the comfortable private beach clubs and hotels with private beaches allow nonguests for a day rate. The water is cooler at Alaçatı than it is at other beaches, and stunningly blue over the pale, fine sand. In addition to windsurfing, water sports like waterskiing, banana boat rides, and kitesurfing are available here. Amenities: food and drink; toilets; showers; water sports. Best for: windsurfing.

Views of the splendid castle or kale, on a mighty crag surrounded on three sides by the sea, dominate all roads into Alanya. The crenellated outer walls are 6½ km (about 4 miles) long and include 140 bastions. The road pierces these outer walls through a modern break, dividing as it heads up the summit. One section leads to the İç Kale (inner fortress), the other to the Ehmedek (garrison); both have places to park. Near the entrance to the Ehmedek are the remains of the original bedestan (bazaar); the old shops around its open courtyard now touting souvenirs. Along a road to the top of the promontory, a ticket office defends the inner keep. Inside are the ruins of a Byzantine church, its 6th-century frescoes of the evangelists faded almost beyond recognition.

The Seljuk sultan Keykubad probably also had a palace here, although discoveries by the McGhee Center of Georgetown University indicates that in times of peace the Seljuk elite likely preferred their pleasure gardens and their hunting and equestrian sports on the well-watered plain below. Steps ascend to the battlement on the summit. A viewing platform is built on the spot where condemned prisoners and women convicted of adultery were once cast to their deaths. The ticket is also valid for the Ehmedek. Admire the ruined monastery down below but do not attempt to descend toward it—the mountainside is very treacherous.

Sometimes called the "king's graveyard," these impressive ancient Lycian rock tombs are carved into the cliff that looms above town. These can be admired from a distance, but if you’re keen to get a close look, follow the signs to Kaya Caddesi (literally "Rock Avenue") near the local minibus station, and then climb the approximately 200 steps leading up to the rocks. Your effort will be well rewarded—particularly at dusk, when the cliffs take on a reddish glow. The largest and best-known is the Tomb of Amyntas, son of Hermepias (c. 350 BC), carved to resemble the facade of an Ionic temple and presumably the burial place of a local ruler or nobleman. Inside are the slabs where corpses were laid out. If you like Lycian tombs, but aren't keen to make the climb here, keep your eyes peeled for the ancient sarcophagi scattered throughout Fethiye.

The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations is a real gem, showcasing many of Turkey's best ancient treasures and providing excellent insight into the incredible amount of history that has played out here. Housed in a 15th-century bedesten (similar to a kervansaray), the museum covers every major civilization that has had a presence in Anatolia, going back more than 10 millennia. Highlights of the vast collection include finds dating from 7000 BC—among them famous mother goddess figurines and wall paintings of animals and geometric patterns from the Neolithic site of Çatalhöyük, one of the oldest human settlements ever discovered. Other items on display include clay cuneiform tablets—the earliest written records found in Anatolia—from the Assyrian trade colonies period, as well as a 13th-century BC bronze tablet (the only such bronze tablet found in Anatolia) recording a Hittite treaty. A significant collection of monumental stonework from around Anatolia, including well-preserved neo-Hittite reliefs depicting the epic of Gilgamesh, from the archaeological site of Karkamış (Kargamış) in Gaziantep, is on display in the central hall.

Atatürk's picture is on every single piece of Turkish currency, his visage hangs in just about every office and official building in the country, and his principles and ideas are the foundations of modern Turkish political thought. So his vast mausoleum, perched on a hilltop overlooking the capital city he built, is on a scale suitable to his stature in Turkey. A marble promenade flanked with Hittite-style lions leads to the imposing mausoleum, where a huge sarcophagus lies beyond a colonnade with inscriptions from his speeches and below a ceiling of brilliant gold mosaics. An adjoining museum contains personal belongings from the revered man's life, including his clothes, automobiles, and personal library. The corridors underneath the tomb house an in-depth exhibit on the 1919–22 War of Independence. To reach the mausoleum, you can take the metro to Tandoğan and walk up the long road that ascends from the main entrance at the northern end of the grounds. A quicker way is to take a taxi to the alternate entrance on Akdeniz Caddesi, on the southeast side.

The province of Antalya has a rich array of archaeological sites and their assembled finds means a first-rate collection at the Antalya Müzesi. The star is Perge, statues from which fill gallery after gallery here, including one just for the gods, from Aphrodite to Zeus. There are also Turkish crafts, costumes, and prehistoric artifacts from the Karain Cave, with bits of Byzantine iconography and some fossils thrown in. One gallery is filled with fine Roman sarcophagi from the 2nd century AD, including a wonderful one illustrating the labors of a steadily aging Hercules. Upstairs are several coin hordes; the large one from Elmalı was recently returned to the museum after being smuggled to the United States. If you have the time, walk to the museum from the center of town along the clifftop promenade, which has a fine sea view.

Though most of what you see today dates from the 1st and 2nd century AD, archaeological evidence indicates that the local dedication to Aphrodite follows a long history of veneration of pre-Hellenic goddesses, such as the Anatolian mother goddess and the Babylonian god Ishtar. Only about half of the site has been excavated. It's much less crowded than Ephesus, and enough remains to conjure the ancient city. Once you reach the pretty, rural site, you'll take a short, bumpy ride on an open-air shuttle from the parking area to the main gate. The lovely Tetrapylon gateway has four rows of columns and some of the better remaining friezes. Behind it, the vast Temple of Aphrodite was built in the 1st century BC on the model of the great temples at Ephesus, and later transformed into a basilica church. Its gate and many of its columns are still standing. The impressive, well-preserved 1st century AD stadium could seat up to 30,000 spectators to watch footraces, boxing and wrestling matches. You'll also find the once-magnificent ruined residence, the fine Odeon (also known as the Bouleuterion, or Council House); an intimate, semicircular concert hall and public meeting room; towering public baths; and the sprawling agora. The 7,000 white-marble seats of the city's theater, built into the side of a small hill, are simply dazzling on a bright day. The adjacent School of Philosophy has a colonnaded courtyard with chambers lining both sides.

In the museum, just before the ticket booth, Aphrodisias bursts back into life in vivid friezes and sculptures that seem almost about to draw breath. The museum's collection includes dozens of impressive statues and reliefs from the site, including Aphrodite herself, with excellent labeling (particularly in the grand display in the Sevgi Gönül Salonu) explaining their significance and symbolism.

Although there are many Roman theaters still standing, none are quite as perfect as the one at Aspendos, built by a local architect named Xenon during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (AD 161–180). It owes its current preservation to the fact that the Seljuk Turks repurposed it as a royal palace in the 13th century; traces of the distinctive Seljuk red-and-yellow paint work are still visible. In its heyday, it could hold 15,000 spectators and is most striking for the broad curve of seats, perfectly proportioned porticoes, and rich decoration.

The Greeks liked open vistas behind their stages, but the Romans preferred enclosed spaces. The stage building you see today was once covered by an elaborate screen of marble columns, and its niches were filled with statues. The only extant relief on site depicts Dionysus (Bacchus) watching over the theater. The acoustics are fine, and the theater continues to be used—for concerts and for the Aspendos International Opera and Ballet Festival, held every September, rather than for wild-animal and gladiator spectacles as in Roman times. Most visitors just see the theater, but don't miss out on the rest of the site, which is up a zigzagging trail behind it. The rewards are a tall Nymphaion (a sanctuary to the nymphs built around a fountain decorated with a marble dolphin) and the remains of a Byzantine basilica and market hall. You can also see, below in the plain, the stadium and the aqueduct which used an ingenious siphon system.

This soaring edifice is perhaps the greatest work of Byzantine architecture, and for almost a thousand years, starting from its completion in 537, it was the world's largest and most important religious monument. As Emperor Justinian may well have intended, the impression that will stay with you longest, years after a visit, is the sight of the dome. As you enter, the half domes trick you before the great space opens up with the immense dome, almost 18 stories high and more than 100 feet across, towering above. Look up into it, and you'll see the spectacle of thousands of gold tiles glittering in the light of 40 windows. Only Saint Peter's in Rome, not completed until the 17th century, surpasses Hagia Sophia in size and grandeur. It was the cathedral of Constantinople, the heart of the city's spiritual life, and the scene of imperial coronations.

When Mehmet II conquered the city in 1453, he famously sprinkled dirt on his head before entering the church after the conquest as a sign of humility. His first order was for Hagia Sophia to be turned into a mosque, and, in keeping with the Islamic proscription against figural images, mosaics were plastered over. Successive sultans added the four minarets, mihrab (prayer niche), and minbar (pulpit for the imam) that visitors see today, as well as the large black medallions inscribed in Arabic with the names of Allah, Muhammad, and the early caliphs. In 1935, Atatürk turned Hagia Sophia into a museum and a project of restoration, including the uncovering of mosaics, began. In 2020, Hagia Sophia reverted into an active mosque.

Recent restoration efforts uncovered, among other things, four large, beautifully preserved mosaics of seraphim, or six-winged angels, in the pendentive of the dome, which had been plastered over 160 years earlier but these and the mosaics in the upstairs galleries are currently closed. At the far end of the south gallery are several imperial portraits, including, on the left, the Empress Zoe, whose husband's face and name were clearly changed as she went through three of them. On the right is Emperor John Comnenus II with his Hungarian wife Irene and their son, Alexius, on the perpendicular wall. Also in the upper level is the great 13th-century Deesis mosaic of Christ flanked by the Virgin and John the Baptist, breathing the life of the early Renaissance that Byzantine artists would carry west to Italy after the fall of the city to the Turks—note how the shadows match the true light source to the left. The central gallery was used by female worshippers. The north gallery is famous for its graffiti, ranging from Nordic runes to a complete Byzantine galley under sail. On your way out of the church, through the "vestibule of the warriors," a mirror reminds you to look back at the mosaic of Justinian and Constantine presenting Hagia Sophia and Constantinople, respectively, to the Virgin Mary.

The tombs of various sultans and princes can be visited for free through a separate entrance around the back of Aya Sofya (daily 9–6).

Ayder is also known for its kaplıcaları (hot springs), reputed to cure all types of ailments. Whether this is true or not, the springs, housed in a modern, marble-lined building near the village's mosque, are good for a relaxing soak after a day of hiking. There's a large pool to splash around in and a hammam area where you can give yourself a good scrub. There are separate facilities for men and women, as well as private rooms for couples that want to bathe together.

One of the Turkey's best preserved ancient cities, UNESCO World Heritage Site, and target of most cruises' disembarking passengers, Bergama, lies just 40 km (25 miles) east down a well-trodden tourist path. Known during Greek and Roman times as Pergamon, the city was renowned for its arts and medicine. Its lofty status is confirmed by a treasure trove of ruins including temples, palaces, shops, a library, and a 10,000-seat theater, the steepest of its age. In the center of the new town, many artifacts are on display at the archaeology museum.

Only after you enter the Blue Mosque do you understand its name. The inside is covered with 20,000 shimmering blue-green İznik tiles interspersed with 260 stained-glass windows; calligraphy and intricate floral patterns are painted on the ceiling. After the dark corners and stern faces of the Byzantine mosaics in Aya Sofya, this mosque feels gloriously airy and full of light. Indeed, this favorable comparison was the intention of architect Mehmet Ağa (a former student of the famous Ottoman architect Sinan), whose goal was to surpass Justinian's crowning achievement (Aya Sofya). At the behest of Sultan Ahmet I (ruled 1603–17), he created this masterpiece of Ottoman craftsmanship, starting in 1609 and completing it in just eight years, and many believe he indeed succeeded in outdoing the splendor of Aya Sofya.

Mehmet Ağa actually went a little too far, though, when he surrounded the massive structure with six minarets: this number linked the Blue Mosque with the Masjid al-Haram in Mecca—and this could not be allowed. So Sultan Ahmet I was forced to send Mehmet Ağa down to the Holy City to build a seventh minaret for al-Haram and reestablish the eminence of that mosque. Sultan Ahmet and some of his family are interred in the türbe (mausoleum) at a corner of the complex.

From outside of the Blue Mosque you can see the genius of Mehmet Ağa, who didn't attempt to surpass the massive dome of Aya Sofya across the way, but instead built a secession of domes of varying sizes to cover the huge interior space, creating an effect that is both whimsical and uplifting. Note that, as of this writing, the Blue Mosque is undergoing an extensive restoration. Although it remains open to the public (except during services), some of the interior details might be blocked by scaffolding.

Established as a preserve in 1981 to protect the habitat of some 100 species of butterfly, including the Jersey Tiger, this area was opened for tourism in part to provide funds to support conservation. Although it's only a 15-minute drive from Ölüdeniz, Butterfly Valley is a favorite stop for boat trips (it's either that or a treacherous climb down a very steep hill) thanks to its pretty beach and clear turquoise waters.

It attracts a laid-back crowd but can become overcrowded in high season. Those who brought sturdy sneakers can enjoy a bracing climb up to a little waterfall, and camping is allowed from April through November. If you aren't undertaking an excursion that includes Butterfly Valley as one of its stops, there's a taxi boat with scheduled service leaving from Ölüdeniz.

Constructed during the reign of Sultan Bayezid II (ruled 1481–1512) to defend the port, this castle is very picturesque, with its stone walls often lined with sun-basking lizards and tortoises. The keep is often deep in wildflowers. The castle houses a small Archaeology Museum, displaying weaponry from the glory days of the Ottoman Empire, cannons from 18th-century sea skirmishes with the Russians, and a modest collection of ancient artifacts. Clamber around the towers for sweeping views of the sea and the city; keep close watch on kids around the less-than-secure railings.

The Romans left a strong mark on Diyarbakır—not only did they lay the foundations for its famous city walls, but they created the basic layout of the old town: a rough rectangle with two main streets that cross and connect the four gates that are found at each compass point. The walls were constructed by the Byzantine Emperor Constantius in the 4th century and various Arab and Turkish rulers restored and added to them over the centuries, until the local Artukid Turcoman emir al Malik al-Salih Mahmud gave them their current form in 1208. On the whole, the walls remain in good shape along their entire length; indeed, if you feel like a bit of an adventure, the best way to appreciate these great walls is to wander along the top. Of the original 72 towers, 67 are still standing, decorated with myriad inscriptions in the language of every conqueror and with Seljuk reliefs of animals and men; you can also explore their inner chambers and corridors. In 2015, the walls became a UNESO World Heritage sight, along with the surrounding Hevsel Gardens, the greenbelt between Diyarbakir and the Tigris River.

The crown jewel of Alanya is this beach that's right next to the city center. In fact, its main draws are its central location, making it one of the easiest to access, and its array of activities, including tennis and beach volleyball. There are many beachside cafés and restaurants along the shore, and there are plenty of opportunities for water sports. Amenities: food and drink, parking (free), showers, toilets, water sports. Best for: swimming, walking.

If you're looking for beaches, either head north from Kuşadası to Pamucak or travel 33 km (20 miles) south to this lovely national park, which has good hiking trails through woods and canyons and several quiet stretches of sand. The İçmeler beach, closest to the entrance, is also the most crowded. Travel 15 minutes to Karaburun for a more low-key atmosphere. The beaches are clean, with nearby picnic tables, toilets, changing cabins, and outdoor showers, but you should bring your own food and drink. (Note that the park is only open to a limited number of private vehicles a day.) You can catch a Güzelçamlı-bound dolmuş/minibus from Kuşadaşı or nearby transport hub Söke that will take visitors into the park and make a circuit of some of the most popular beaches. The park also contains the so-called "Cave of Zeus," and an archaeological site from when the peninsula was known as Mycale.

Abdülmecid I, whose free-spending lifestyle later bankrupted the empire, had this palace built between 1843 and 1856 as a symbol of Turkey's march toward European-style modernization. It's also where Atatürk died (and all clocks in the palace are turned to his time of death). Its name means "filled-in garden," inspired by the imperial garden planted here by Sultan Ahmet I (ruled 1603–17). Abdülmecid gave father and son Garabet and Nikoğos Balyan complete freedom and an unlimited budget, the only demand being that the palace "surpass any other palace of any other potentate anywhere in the world." The result, an extraordinary mixture of Turkish and European architectural and decorative styles, is as over-the-top and showy as a palace should be—and every bit as garish as Versailles. Dolmabahçe is divided into the public Selamlık and the private Harem, which can only be seen on a separate guided tour. The two tours together take about 90 minutes. Afterward, stroll along the palace's nearly ½-km (¼-mile)-long waterfront facade and through the formal gardens, which have the Crystal Pavilion and Clock Museum. The palace has a daily visitor quota, so call the reservation number at least a day in advance to reserve tickets.

The ruin of Ephesus, once the most important Greco-Roman city of the eastern Mediterranean, is one of the best preserved ancient sites in the world. Today, modern travelers can trace the splendor and collapse of ancient civilizations in Ephesus's spectacular landscape of ruined temples, theaters, and colonnaded streets. There are two entrances to the site, which is on a hill: one at the top of the site (Üst Kapı, or Upper Gate) and one at the bottom (Alt Kapı, or Lower Gate—this is where to find the public dolmuş stop). The main avenue is about a mile long but there are a number of intriguing detours, so a minimum visit of two hours can easily stretch to four. Buy water and a light snack in Selçuk town before you head for Ephesus. In summer, when shade is at a premium, a hat is a very good idea. Highlights of the site include the spectacular theater, backed by the western slope of Mt. Pion, which once seated an estimated 25,000 to 40,000 spectators; the beautiful, two-story Library of Celsus; and the terrace houses, the multistoried houses of the nobility, with terraces and courtyards (which have a separate entrance fee). See the highlighted Ephesus feature in this chapter for more information.

This small museum has one of the best collections of Roman and Greek artifacts found anywhere in Turkey. The well-displayed and labeled holdings date from the neolithic to Ottoman periods and include fine sculptures, friezes, mosaics, and reliefs. The elaborately carved white statues of Artemis are particularly notable, while the exhibit of jewelry, cosmetics, medical instruments, and housewares from Ephesus's terrace houses gives an intimate glimpse into day-to-day life in the ancient city.

Erected around 9,000 BC, 6,000 years before Stonehenge, before even the invention of agriculture, this series of stone circles on a hill 15 km (9 miles) northeast of the town of Urfa have been popularly declared the "World's Oldest Temple." The stones' purpose has been subject to wide interpretation: some believe this was a burial site; others, a place of ritual initiation, or that each circle belonged to a different tribe that gathered here for ritual and trade. What is clear, though, is that no one lived here, and that it would have taken hundreds of people to transport and erect the pillars. The site consists of a series of circles and ovals formed by large T-shaped pillars of equal height, usually with two larger pillars inside. The pillars are thought to have held a roof. Many of the outer surfaces are carved, some are anthropomorphic, others depict the savage nightmares of a hunter-gatherer's life, such as snakes, foxes, vultures, scorpions, and wild boar. Most curiously of all, the structures were deliberately buried when the site was abandoned. Four structures have been exposed since excavations began in 1995, and another 16 have been identified by geophysicists; excavations continue in spring and fall. The circles themselves are off-limits and enclosed by low fences, but visitors are welcome to follow pathways from which all are clearly visible. Take the old highway the D400 east from Şanlıurfa and look for the marked turning on the left just as you leave the built-up area. This road continues about 15 km (10 miles), crossing over the new highway. Shortly after this is a turn, left for the last few miles up the hill to the site. Alternatively, a return taxi (including waiting time) from Urfa should cost around 80 TL. While the site is open year-round, many of the pillars are covered in winter in order to protect them from the elements.

The open-air museum is a UNESCO World Heritage Site thanks to its spectacular landscape and amazing collection of cave churches decorated with elaborate Byzantine frescoes that were once part of a monastic complex. Within the museum is the 11th-century Elmalı Kilise (Church with the Apple), which has wonderfully preserved frescoes of biblical scenes and portraits of saints. The Karanlık Church (Dark Church) was extensively restored by UNESCO, and vividly colorful scenes, dominated by deep blues, decorate the walls and domed ceiling; the painting of Christ Pantocrator on the dome is particularly impressive (entrance to the church is an extra 30 TL). In the nearby kitchen/refectory, a huge dining table that could seat 50 is carved from the rock, and it's easy to imagine priests and members of the early Christian community here packing in for meals. The museum covers a large area with dozens of caves, nooks, and crannies to explore, almost all of them easily reachable on paved paths.

The highlights of this huge, impressive museum are its dozens of Roman mosaics, which hint at the glorious past of old Antioch. Experts consider works in the collection here—one of the largest in the world, portraying scenes from mythology and replete with figures such as Dionysus, Orpheus, Oceanus, and Thetis—to rank among the highest achievements of Roman art.

The landscape changes dramatically when you head south through Cappadocia toward Ihlara: the dusty plains turn rich with vegetation along the Melendiz River, which has carved cliffs as high as 490 feet. Walking the entire valley takes the better part of a day, but if you just want to get a taste of it, the most interesting part is the middle section. A few fresco-decorated churches are within walking distance of one another, including the Ağaçaltı (Under-a-Tree) church, Kokar (Fragrant) church, Yılanlı (Serpent) church, and the Church of St. George. Belisırma village, about 2 km (1 mile) north of the Ihlara Vadisi Turistik Tesisleri and roughly a three-hour walk from either end of the valley, has a handful of scenic restaurants, some of which have open-air cabanas built on stilts over the river—an idyllic place for a simple meal, accompanied by the relaxing sound of running water. Just outside the north end of the valley, Selime Monastery is a huge rock-cut complex with a chapel, two levels of rooms, and lots of nooks and crannies.

Step into this vast repository of spectacular finds, housed in a three-building complex in a forecourt of Topkapı Palace, to get a head-spinning look at the civilizations that have thrived for thousands of years in and around Turkey. The main museum was established in 1891, when forward-thinking archaeologist and painter Osman Hamdi Bey campaigned to keep native antiquities and some items from the former countries of the Ottoman Empire in Turkish hands. The most stunning pieces are sarcophagi that include the so-called Alexander Sarcophagus, found in Lebanon, carved with scenes from Alexander the Great's battles, and once believed, wrongly, to be his final resting place. A fascinating exhibit on Istanbul through the ages has artifacts and fragments brought from historical sites around the city that shed light on its complex past, from prehistory through the Byzantine period. Exhibits on Anatolia include a display of some of the artifacts found in excavations at Troy, including a smattering of gold jewelry.

Don't miss a visit to the Çinili Köşk (Tiled Pavilion), one of the most visually pleasing sights in all of Istanbul—a bright profusion of colored tiles covers this onetime hunting lodge of Mehmet the Conqueror, built in 1472. Inside are ceramics from the early Seljuk and Ottoman empires, as well as brilliant tiles from İznik, the city that produced perhaps the finest ceramics in the world during the 16th and 17th centuries. In summer, you can mull over these glimpses into the distant past as you sip coffee or tea at the café in the garden, surrounded by fragments of ancient sculptures.

The Eski Şark Eserleri Müzesi (Museum of the Ancient Orient) transports you to even earlier times: a majority of the panels, mosaics, obelisks, and other artifacts here, from Anatolia, Mesopotamia, and elsewhere in the Arab world, date from the pre-Christian centuries. One of the most significant pieces in the collection is a 13th-century BC tablet on which is recorded the Treaty of Kadesh, perhaps the world's earliest known peace treaty, an accord between the Hittite king Hattusili III and the Egyptian pharaoh Ramses II. Also noteworthy are reliefs from the ancient city of Babylon, dating from the era of the famous king Nebuchadnezzar II.

Currently housed in a temporary space while its usual home on the shore of the Bosphorus is rebuilt, the İstanbul Modern of Modern Art showcases modern and contemporary painting, sculpture, photography, and works in other media from Turkey and around the world. A top-notch program of temporary exhibitions features significant local and international contemporary artists. A private tour can be organized in English for groups of four or more (20 TL per person) and will give you a good introduction to the art scene in Turkey. The museum also has a small cinema, café, and design store.

Unspoiled İztuzu Beach stretches for 5.4 km (3.4 miles), with the Mediterranean on one side and a freshwater delta on the other. Caretta caretta (loggerhead) sea turtles lay their eggs here in summer, which means that this is a conservation area and there are rules in place so you don't disturb them; there's even a turtle hospital you can visit at the far end of the beach (where the minibus from Dalyan stops). It gets crowded near the boat drop-off point, but walk a few hundred yards away, and you'll have the sand to yourself. Regular boats (dolmuş tekne) from Dalyan cost about 30 TL for the return trip, so skip expensive tours or private rentals, unless you're venturing farther afield. Be aware that although you can catch the boat to the beach starting around 9:30 am, the hourly return trips don't begin until the early afternoon. Amenities: food and drink; parking; showers; toilets. Best for: swimming; walking.

The vast complex behind Ulu Cami comprises many adjoining hans (kervansarays, or inns for merchants) surrounding a bedesten (the central part of a covered bazaar, which is vaulted and fireproofed). Bursa sultans began building bazaars in the 14th century to finance the construction or maintenance of their schools, mosques, and soup kitchens. The precinct was soon topped with roofs, creating the earliest form of covered bazaar, and, late in the century, Yıldırım Beyazıt perfected the concept by building a bedesten with six parts connected by arches and topped by 14 domes. The complex was flattened by a massive earthquake in 1855, and sections were badly burned by fire in the 1950s, but the Kapalı Çarşı has been lovingly restored to provide a flavor of the past. Best buys here include gold jewelry, thick Turkish cotton towels (for which Bursa is famous), and silk goods.

Take a deep breath, and plunge into this maze of 65 winding, covered streets crammed with 4,000 tiny shops, cafés, restaurants, mosques, and courtyards. Originally built by Mehmet II (the Conqueror) in 1461 over the main Byzantine shopping streets, the Grand Bazaar was rebuilt after fires in both 1943 and 1954. It's said that this early version of a shopping mall contains the largest concentration of stores under one roof anywhere in the world, and that's easy to believe.

Some of the most aggressive salesmanship in the world takes place here, so take yet another deep breath, and put up your guard while exploring. Oddly enough, though, the sales pitches, the crowds, and the sheer volume of junky trinkets on offer can be hypnotizing. Enjoy a glass of tea while you browse through leather goods, carpets, fabric, clothing, furniture, ceramics, and gold and silver jewelry. Remember, whether you're bargaining for a pair of shoes or an antique carpet, the best prices are offered when the would-be seller thinks you are about to slip away.