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In the capital, as in the rest of the grand duchy, workers drop everything at noon and, jamming the streets, rush home to a leisurely hot meal, then rush back at 2, jamming the streets once more. Most restaurants offer a relatively speedy plat du jour for those who don't commute twice a day. Evening meals at home tend to be a cold supper of ham, sausage, dark bread, and cheese; the occasional meal out is usually a celebration, enjoyed at length. The Sunday noon meal is the most important of the week. Some Luxembourg restaurants are closed on Sunday and/or Monday, but country restaurants—some of the best and most enjoyable in the country, and never very far away—are booked with three-generation families, who spend the afternoon eating and drinking, then take a stroll, after which the men retire to the local pub.
Luxembourg City has a wide variety of restaurants, offering everything from top French cuisine to simple local specialties; you'll also find an assortment of international choices, a plethora of pizzerias, and for some reason, lots of Chinese restaurants. It's easy to find a fixed-price menu or plat du jour by wandering from restaurant to restaurant, but beware: the best places are often booked up at weekday lunchtime; if you know where you want to eat, phone ahead. Dress is casual unless otherwise indicated.
This Parisian-style café in the heart of the Place d'Armes serves French favorites, from onion soup to paté to pastries. The tuxedoed wait staff is friendly whether you order an elaborate three-course meal or linger over a cup of coffee. Sit outside and watch the pedestrian parade through the square.
This working boulangerie-patisserie is decorated like a French country farmhouse, with pine tables to seat 2 or 20 and rustic sideboards lining the walls. Copious soups, salads, and sandwiches, as well as warm dishes, can be ordered from a waiter. Don't forget to buy a loaf of Luxembourg's best bread or one of the almost-too-pretty-to-eat cakes or pastries. The locally made jams, jellies, and wines on display are also for sale.
On the fourth floor of a former brewery, this top-class establishment stands above the brasher bars of Rives de Clausen that surround it. The open kitchen at the back of the spacious industrial chic (read high ceilings and bare brick walls) dining room leaves chef Christophe Petra and his team nowhere to hide, but that's no problem for them since their mouth-watering creations are something to shout about. Don't miss out on the superb signature dish: pigeon fillet en croute, with foie gras and cabbage stuffing, and truffle mash. You're welcome to visit the bar on the floor above and enjoy the view from the terrace without a dinner reservation, if dressed smartly.
A serene refuge near the busy train station, this quaint neighborhood spot is hidden on an easily missed side street. The menu changes every few months, but always includes fresh seasonal ingredients, including beef, pork, and lamb, all prepared in simple country style. The 20-table dining area is decorated with rattan furniture and soothing original art.
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