2 Best Restaurants in Heidelberg and the Neckar Valley, Germany

Many of the rough-hewn oak tables here have initials carved into them, a legacy of the thousands who have visited Heidelberg's most famous old tavern. Mark Twain, Marilyn Monroe, and John Wayne may have left their mark—they all ate here, and Twain's photo is on one of the memorabilia-covered walls. Wash down simple fare, such as goulash soup and bratwurst, or heartier dishes like Tellerfleisch (boiled beef) with regional German wines or local Heidelberg beer. The "Red Ox" has been run by the same family for more than 170 years. Come early to get a good seat, including for the live piano music from 7 pm Thursday--Saturday, and stay late for the Gemütlichkeit (easygoing friendliness).

Saddle of lamb and sautéed liver in honey-pepper sauce are specialties here, as are seasonal preparations with asparagus and mushrooms. The menu changes every six weeks. The wine list focuses on old-world estates, particularly clarets. The elegant art nouveau interior is done in shades of red with dark-wood accents, and a quiet courtyard offers alfresco dining in summer.