28 Best Restaurants in The Alpilles, Arles, and the Camargue, Provence

Double Michelin–starred chef Michel Kayser adds a personal touch both to the elegant modern dining room and library sitting room where you can enjoy a drink before tucking into local specialties and seasonal menus transformed into delicious works of art. Scallops from the Camargue coast served with a luscious ravioli stuffed with celery cream and black garlic; plump white asparagus from the sands of Aigues Mortes with a sabayon and elderberry vinegar; and thyme-infused Aveyron lamb with carrots, turnip, and kumquat may not leave room for tender local strawberries from the Gard infused with kaffir lime served with sage sorbet. The terrace opens to an extensive park with century-old trees, and often apricots and peaches plucked from the overhanging branches will appear on your plate, magically transformed into some delicious creation. Though the restaurant is outside Nîmes proper, it's a favorite Provence pilgrimage spot. 

This quintessential locals' hangout is packed for lunch pretty much year-round thanks to dishes that are deeply French and deeply satisfying. The traditional bistro decor—long bar, leatherette banquettes, large mirrors, and brass railings—has something to do with the appeal of this marvelous restaurant that's casual in every sense except when it comes to food and wine.

Set in an 18th-century Provençal mas once owned by the grand-mère of one of the owners, this countrified restaurant is a short drive outside the city but well worth the effort. Sit inside at wooden tables or out under towering plane trees to enjoy delicious dishes made with locally sourced ingredients that mix classic recipes (yes, from Tata Simone) with modern touches. Everything, including the bread, warm from the oven, evokes the hearty home-cooked dishes of old Provence.

Duende, that irresistible magnetic force radiated by a performer to transport an audience, is precisely what two Michelin–star chef Nicolas Fontaine (channeling Pierre Gagnaire who designed the menus) conjures in the dining room of the Art Deco–era Hotel L'Imperator. A sophisticated spot to be sure, but it's also expressive of Nîmes's earthy, independent spirit in dishes that pair the exotic with the local: Mediterranean jumbo shrimp à l'Amontillado with local Camargue rice and mango in a passion fruit emulsion or a butter-poached catch of the day with camus artichokes, green olives, and a parsley-anchovy sauce. Lamb comes from the nearby Alpilles, and produce is sourced from the Gard's top organic farmers.

This convivial wine bar, tucked in a corner near a pretty square in the Old Town, is the best place for tasting local wines. The selection of excellent-value wines by the glass allows you to take in (literally) the vast wealth of the Côtes du Rhône, deliciously accompanied by local cheeses, charcuterie, or salad plates.

The vaulted dining room provides an excellent backdrop for camera-ready "haute couture" dishes that taste as good as they look and have garnered the chef a Michelin star. For an atmosphere that's a little less formal, the colorful Bistr'AU offers a fine prix-fixe menu; both restaurants are part of the Jérôme Nutile empire—which also includes a hotel and a boutique—that's set on a pretty old farm just outside the city.

Year after year, diners return to this temple to haute cuisine for updated versions of dishes they might have first tried three decades ago. This was the first establishment outside of the Riviera to earn three Michelin stars, and, under legendary chef Raymond Thuillier, it rose from being the dining room of a small country inn to a restaurant whose guest list has included leading artists, movie stars, and heads of state (Picasso, Queen Elizabeth, Churchill, and Harry Truman all dined here). Helmed by Thuillier's grandson, Jean-André Charial, and his gifted protégé, Glenn Viel, the restaurant maintains two Michelin stars. The refined classic dishes are not completely free from the ingredients and preparations of the past, but they do now highlight organic vegetables fresh from the extensive kitchen gardens.

Sophisticated yet comfortable, this organic restaurant, 12 km (7½ miles) south of Arles at the entrance of the Camargue, has a fetching dining room that extends to an outdoor area with large, family-style picnic tables under a canopy and overlooking extensive gardens. The mix of modern and French-country dishes on master chef Armand Arnal's prix-fixe menus are made using ingredients grown right on the property.

This spot has seen its share of famous diners, from French movie stars to politicians, but you'd never know it from the friendly, laid-back atmosphere cultivated by the longtime chef and his loyal staff who loudly greet their friends—meaning everyone. From the apéritif until the bill comes (which could be a while, as you'll want to take your time here), you're drawn into the rhythm of Provençal bistro dining, with a bottle of the house red wine ready at your table and a stellar cheese platter all to yourself. There is a set menu for lunch and dinner—a choice of two starters, one or two main courses, and six desserts—ensuring that every morsel is fresh, local, and cooked to perfection. The bistro is about 6 km (4 miles) from Les-Baux-de-Provence and 13 km (8 miles) from St-Rémy-de-Provence.

Tucked away under a canopy of green, this cozy local favorite serves contemporary French fare far above the usual offerings. Relax in a vintage armchair while enjoying appetizers like creamy burrata cheese with perfectly ripe heirloom tomatoes or grilled sardines with arugula and olives and entrées such as succulent guinea fowl or steak smothered in fresh morels with a side of golden frites. Seafood also factors large on the menu, and there are plenty of vegetarian choices, too. The top-notch wine list emphasizes natural, small-producer options.

Who would have thought that you could find a 100% organic, raw, gluten-free, and vegan restaurant of this caliber in the heart of meat-centric Provence? It's foodie heaven to those with restricted diets, offering a tantalizing range of cold-pressed juices, salads, pastries, and smoothies so good that even carnivores will appreciate them. The rustic dining room is adorable, and there is a sunny terrace overlooking the village.

Named for its illustrious chef and pastry chef, the restaurant of the L'Auberge de Saint-Remy hotel draws foodies from near and far. Inventive, earthy, and refined, Rey's cuisine doesn't so much redefine Provençal cooking as expand it. With a laser focus on local, sustainable ingredients, she eschews all animal fats, salt, and other staples of French gastronomy in favor of rich, slow-cooked fish and vegetable broths steeped with herbs and seaweeds, olive oil, peppers, and edible leaves and flowers to complement fish and meat. Rey first gained notoriety as second runner-up in France's Top Chef 2011 and then shattered the culinary glass ceiling in 2017 with her first Michelin star. Her dishes are small works of art that leave diners satisfied without a hint of heaviness, even after 10 courses. Wahid, Rey's husband and the winner of France's Pastry Chef of the Year 2005, creates the desserts—small wonders as beautiful and complex as they are delicious.

Don't be put off by the name—a blend of the initials of owners Sébastien Kieffer and Alban Barbette—because this restaurant has an enchanting shaded garden terrace and a seasonal menu by chef Damien Sanchez that will not disappoint. Crispy Provençal lamb with fresh vegetables makes for a great main dish, and for dessert there's poached apple on a crispy pastry with apple jelly, nougat, heavy cream, and gingerbread ice cream. Fixed-price menus run €95–€130, but the €50 weekday lunch menu is a great value—if you can get a table.

Franco-Vietnamese chef Céline Pham, a talented veteran of top restaurants in Paris, headlines at this chic bistro set in a 13th-century chapel. This is a food lover's destination, not only for the seasonal dishes with subtle and surprising combinations but also for the excellent-value menus (three courses at lunch, €41; dinner, €55 or €85 with wine pairings).

Locals come to this restaurant in a former fire-horse shed for Provençal hors d'oeuvres like fried eggplant, green tapenade, chickpeas in cumin, and a slab of ham carved off the bone, perhaps followed by roasted potatoes with lamb chops grilled in the great stone fireplace. Call at least a week in advance to reserve table in summer, when you can opt for just the first-course buffet—and go back for seconds or even thirds.

A popular place for lunch or dinner, this modern bistro and terrace in the heart of the Vieille Ville draws a lively mix of locals, expats, and tourists looking for authentic market-driven meals. A small but satisfying menu is generously laced with local delicacies—savory ragoût of wild boar, cod with puréed local vegetables and tapenade-laden croutons, and poached-egg cocotte with foie gras cream and turmeric-balsamic toast. A generous wine list offers plenty of local choices by the glass, and the dessert tray in the window—another big draw—features tantalizing concoctions, like a classic chantilly-topped baba al rhum (a small cake made with rum syrup) and creamy tarte au citron (a lemon tart). Service can be slow, but it's always friendly.

An open kitchen, a chalkboard menu, a bright terrace, and friendly service combine to create a laid-back atmosphere here, but, when it comes to the food, chef Nicolas Epiard is on his toes, serving up traditional local cuisine with flair and exuberance. Try dishes like the meltingly tender, slow-cooked bull with wild morels and a puree of root vegetables or the sea bass with savory herb pistou (Provence's answer to pesto) and crisp vegetables. Desserts might include fig crumble or white chocolate mousse. A refreshing rosé (the locally influenced wine list has plenty of choices by the glass) is the perfect accompaniment to an exemplary meal that's easy on the wallet.

The chic little sister brasserie to the Hôtel L'Imperator's gastronomic Duende restaurant is your best bet in the city for a memorable meal that won't break the bank. What's more, Duende's Michelin-starred chef presides over the kitchen, putting out perfectly executed comfort food made with ingredients sourced from the Occitane. You can eat in the relaxed dining room or outdoors under towering plane trees and serenaded by a gurgling fountain The three- and four-course prix-fixe menus cost €38–€68.

You reach your table through the kitchen, bustling with chopping, sizzling, and wafting scents, which is a nice introduction to what awaits. The cooking is serious, featuring Provençal specialties such as rouget (red mullet) with pureed potatoes or caillette d'agneau (lamb baked in herbs). The four set menus are priced from €25 (lunch) to €35, so there's something that will appeal to all appetites and budgets.

On nice days, the lively scene in the dining room spills out onto a spacious terrace, though both are lovely places to enjoy something from the short menu of home-style dishes that's made even more irresistible by the fact that nothing on it costs more than €17 (three-course lunch menu, €16). Look for such comfort foods as spelt risotto with veal and cèpes or pork caillettes (meatballs) with chard and pickles; for dessert, consider the melting chocolate mousse cake that's just like the one grandmère makes.

Uzès's only Michelin-starred restaurant has a stately but cozy dining room that sets the stage for a memorable meal from start to finish. Give yourself time to fully appreciate the dishes of chef Christophe Ducros, whose magic lies in the seasonal pairings of the freshest ingredients from both the countryside (like lamb served three ways) and coast (coquilles Saint-Jacques with butternut squash, yuzu, and trompette mushrooms) with complementary local wines. Service is meticulous yet friendly, and the menu, though abbreviated, covers all the gourmet bases and then some.

This under-the-radar cave à manger, for people who want to eat and drink well without the fuss of a fancier place, specializes in small plates with big flavors. Try the morteau sausage with lentils and pickled onions, the briny oysters in an herb-infused broth, or the tender pork cheeks with sweet corn cream—all accompanied by a feisty natural wine. Plates are intended to be shared, but that's up to you.

This classic wine bar is ever popular for its great location and reliably good French food. The menu features modern riffs on the classics—pigs’ feet (and ears if you're lucky), ricotta-spinach dumplings with mushrooms spiked with pecorino cheese, or asparagus eggs Benedict—and the owners also have a tender spot for vegetarians. The long and well-priced list of biodynamic and organic wines by the bottle or glass makes sampling the local options a cinch.

Visionary Jean-Luc Rabanel is the culinary success story of the region—he was one of the first organic chefs in France to merit two Michelin stars and is renowned for the fresh, garden-inspired cuisine that he features in this stylish restaurant and cooking school. Menus are prix-fixe only, and the seven-dish tapas-style lunch (€65) and six-course "Emotion" dinner (€145) are unforgettable. To experience all of Rabanel's flourishes, though, try the "Signatures" eight-course extravaganza (€185; wine pairings €45 or €65). A chic, Japanese-style reception area features the five elements—water, fire, earth, air, and spirit—and ensures a harmonious meal.

Finding a decent place for a sit-down meal amid the village's head-spinning number of tourist cafés is challenging, but you can't go wrong with this welcoming eatery at the historic port. Watch the boats pass by while dining on heaping platters of shellfish or the catch of the day.

Claude and Dana Douard collaborated with some of the greatest chefs of our time before getting away from the big city lights to open this bistro–wine bar hot spot in the center of St-Rémy. The wine selection is magnificent, and so is the simple food—try the grilled sea bass with chorizo, mashed potatoes, and seasonal vegetables or the grilled Mont Ventoux spiced pork.

Locals appreciate this cozy, contemporary dining room, set in an old stone house a 10-minute walk from the town center, so a table here is one of Uzès's most coveted. After training in top Parisian kitchens, chef Axel Grousset-Bachelard traveled the world tasting as he went, so expect a touch of the exotic in his seasonal dishes made with market-fresh produce (if you're here in winter, order any of the dishes featuring the local black truffles) and meat and fish sourced from the finest Occitane and Provence purveyors. Service is top-notch (and very friendly), and the wine list favors local growers.

This favorite spot in the center of town draws crowds, especially after the morning market, for its excellent French comfort food with a twist. It's a great place to relax—inside the cheerful dining room or outdoors in the garden or under the 16th-century building's beautiful stone vaulting—and feast on rotisserie chicken with crispy frites, fresh oysters on the half shell, jumbo shrimp with mango and avocado, or a charcuterie plate.