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Prague generally gets high marks for architectural beauty and decidedly low marks for the quality of the food. But this is an unfair assessment based on impressions from the 1990s, when finding a decent meal really was something of a challenge. Since then, the global slow-food, fresh-food revolution has washed up onto the shores of Bohemia. Everywhere you look, serious restaurants are touting the freshness of their ingredients, and often claiming to source everything locally where possible. Some places are reviving classic Czech recipes that may be more than a century old, while others are liberally borrowing ideas and inspiration from cuisines around the world.
Part of the credit for this dining renaissance goes to the Ambiente chain of restaurants, which through its stable (including La Degustation, Lokál Dlouhááá, and Pizza Nuova) has greatly raised standards. And it’s done wonders for the Czech national pride that excellent food is now easy to find. Other leading chefs have made their mark: Paul Day at Sansho, Roman Paulus at Alcron, and Ji?í Nosek at Zdenek’s Oyster Bar, among others. And Czechs have responded. A few years ago, it was a given the best restaurants were for visitors and businessmen. Now, many Czechs are discovering for themselves the pleasures of truly good food outside their kitchens.
International trends and fads, of course, have had an impact here, too. Every year seems to bring a new dining mania (and with it some great restaurants). The latest crazes for handcrafted burgers made from locally raised beef and for good Vietnamese cooking have brought a fresh crop of contenders. Past years have seen waves of sushi places, steak houses, and Thai noodle bars. We say, keep it coming.
Alas, what still needs an upgrade is service. English is widely spoken, but service can still be brusque or, worse, incompetent. Restaurateurs spend millions on the food, but don't put the same thought into training their staff. This will be surmounted in time, though, and in general the dining scene continues on the upswing.
Classic Czech fare is best sampled in a hospoda, or pub. These local joints have menus that usually include dishes for which Bohemian cuisine is justly (in)famous: pork and sauerkraut with bread dumplings; roast duck; beef in cream sauce; and, for the vegetarian, fried cheese. In recent years Czech brewers like Staropramen and Pilsner Urquell have opened chains of branded pubs (Potrefená Husa and Pilsner Urquell Original Restaurant, respectively). These chains are to the traditional pub what a new Swiss timepiece is to an old watch—light years ahead in terms of the quality. If you're looking to dip a toe into the waters of Czech cuisine, these pubs are an excellent place to begin.
Literally translated as "A Coffee Shop Looking for a Name," this achingly hip café-cum-gallery serves great coffee, tempting cocktails, and excellent food—including top-notch breakfasts and brunches until midday on weekdays and 3 pm on weekends. The gallery space showcases work by local artists and hosts pop-up events.
The home-baked sourdough bread, the huge selection of delicious pastries, and the lovingly brewed coffee make this café-bakery a local favorite. It's so popular that there are now two other branches in Prague, including a second one in Smíchov (at Štefánikova 31).
Located on what is among Prague's coolest streets, this hip little spot combines a retro aesthetic—black walls, a mix of chairs, and lots of plants—with tasty international food and unique touches.
It may not look too salubrious from outside, but this tucked-away fine-dining restaurant has a wonderfully warm and welcoming interior, all roughly plastered walls, sturdy wooden furniture, soft golden lighting, and autumnal wall hangings. What's more, the food is great: the seasonal, five-course degustation menu (1,590 Kč) has a mix of influences but really comes to life with main courses built around classic Czech ingredients like rabbit, pork, dumplings, and cabbage. Note that the portions are small, courses are quite spread out, and there are few extras (including no bread), so you may leave feeling not entirely full. Opt for a wine pairing (955 Kč) with dinner or add something a little different to your dining experience with a non-alcoholic pairing (480 Kč) of kombucha-like fermented lemonades. They vary in level of acidity; some are pleasantly subtle, others are more of an acquired taste. As well as dinner, the restaurant serves three-course prix fixe breakfasts (480 Kč).
While Prague isn't famous for its Mexican food, Burrito Loco is a notable exception: fresh, spicy takeout burritos and nachos, at affordable prices, right by Old Town Square. There are a few branches around the city.
Tasty, fresh superfoods, smoothies, and bowls sit alongside rather more indulgent desserts at this pleasant café just off Náměstí Republiky. They offer vegan options, and there are plenty of tables as it is housed in a pretty and spacious historic building.
With its bare plaster walls and laid-back vibe, uber-cool Cafe Hrnek is a fab spot for great coffee, tasty brunches, and decadent sweet treats.
High-quality meals at not-too-high prices are the order of the day at this elegant, Viennese-style café, which dates back to the 19th century. Diners can enjoy everything from cream of green pea soups to crisp seasonal salads and Parisian steak tartare to classic Wiener schnitzel, all complemented by fresh breads from the in-house bakery. The selection of cakes and pastries make for the perfect sweet finish. For the very best of Café Savoy, come for breakfast during the week or for brunch on weekends; you'll need to book ahead.
This popular Vietnamese-Czech coffee shop offers a real mix of Western and Asian coffee culture, from cappuccinos, espresso tonics, and hot chocolates to Vietnamese coffee, matcha lattes, and kombucha. The food is great, too: come for the excellent Western-style breakfasts and brunches (things like granola, scrambled eggs, and banana bread), or the tasty Asian-influenced lunches and dinners (like bun bo nam bo, Penang curry, and bibimbap).
At last! A huge, hip, all-day dining space on the edge of Staré Mĕsto's Jewish quarter. From its neon sign and bare-brick walls alone, this spot is already streets ahead of most of the area's tourist traps. And the good news is the food and drink options deliver too, from brunches to fresh juices, hearty main courses to cocktails. There's an inventive lunch menu which changes weekly, often featuring modern takes on Czech classics alongside more global options like pastas, salads, and fish. Plus there's a kids' corner and a piano bar downstairs.
Prague's first English-language bookstore with a café continues to draw both foreigners and Czechs for its large selection of novels, regional nonfiction, popular brunches, and memories of the go-go '90s. The recently upgraded menu includes an excellent burger, good salads, and various American classics. Head over in the evening for regular themed nights, as well as occasional live music.
A popular café-bistro-bar with a homey feel (per its name), the menu here changes daily, taking inspiration from a mix of the owners' grandmothers and U.K. superchef Gordon Ramsay. There's also a shop for fresh vegetables and pastries. The coffee is great and at night there are often DJs.
This little bakery was set up by a Danish chef in 1999, which means predictably good Danish pastries and brilliant breads, including the house special, rye bread with sunflower seeds.
It's almost sacrilegious to describe these U.S.-style dogs as the best sausage in town, but their greatness cannot be denied (make sure you grab a Czech-style klobasa, or sausage, while in Prague, too, though).
With its hip signage and location, you could be forgiven for assuming that Piknik is style over substance. But the lines to the counter would quickly set you right, as customers line up for delicious pastries, cakes, sandwiches, breakfasts, and coffee. There are some tables, too, but as the name suggests, it's a good spot to load up on provisions to take to Letenské sady (Letná Park) just across the river or farther afield. It opens at 7:30, for those who want to get ahead of the tourist hordes.
Locals love this buzzing café that focuses on local ingredients and serves generous brunches, delicious bread, and excellent coffee. Chleba a máslo, next door, is a similarly unpretentious neighborhood bakery that's owned by the same crew.
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