Gasthaus Jell
In the heart of the medieval Altstadt is this storybook stone cottage run by Ulli Amon-Jell (pronounced "Yell"), who serves the tried-and-true recipes of her grandmother and great-grandmother, with a bit of her own modern flair added to the mix. Snails au gratin in garlic herb butter, roast kidneys with bacon and onion, and gazpacho with buttery parmesan dumplings are popular items on the menu. There are always lighter fish and vegetarian dishes, too, but the chef's motto is "no one goes home hungry from my tavern." Leave room for dessert if you possibly can, as the homemade marillenknödel (warm, apricot-filled dumplings) are a delight.
Book ahead in summer for a table under the grape arbor in the small, secluded outdoor dining area.