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The gastronomic scene of Austria's westernmost provinces is as varied as its landscape: first-rate gourmet restaurants, traditional inns, rustic local taverns, as well as international chains and ethnic cuisine are all part of the mix. In small towns throughout the region restaurants are often the dining rooms of country inns, and there are plenty of these. Austria used to have a reputation for substantial but stereotypical dishes of meat, dumplings and sauerkraut, but things have changed considerably. Gourmet meals are available at many wonderful restaurants, often at much more reasonable prices than is typical of Europe’s high-class dining scene. That said, in many villages you’ll find inns catering largely to local farm workers, where the old favorites are still the order of the day—prepare to be filled rather than thrilled.
Most hotel restaurants will be closed in the off-season, usually November and April. In ski season breakfast is typically served early enough for you to hit the slopes in good time, and dinner is timed so that exhausted skiers can get an early night in preparation for the next day.
Restaurants range from grand-hotel dining salons to little Wirtshäuser, rustic restaurants where you can enjoy hearty local specialties such as Tyroler Gröstl (a skillet dish made of ham or pork, potatoes, and onions, with caraway seeds, paprika and parsley), Knödel (dumpling) soup, or Schweinsbraten (roast pork with sauerkraut), while sitting on highly polished (and rather hard) wooden seats. Don't forget to enjoy some of the fine Innsbruck coffeehouses, famous for their scrumptious cakes and cappuccino.
One of Innsbruck's go-to gourmet experiences—its 14 Gault Millau points are a fine endorsement—this restaurant in the heart of the old town is known for its obsession with using local ingredients as much as possible, with absolutely no artificial additives. Details of suppliers, farms, and even local hunting grounds for the game on the menu are available for perusal. The interior is modern and the atmosphere is trendy.
Dark wooden paneling, crystal chandeliers, and the smell of coffee make this Viennese-style café a meeting point for intellectuals, artists, and students. International newspapers and magazines are available, as is a variety of cakes, pastries, and breakfast dishes. You can have breakfast any time of day, or choose something from the daily menu. A typical small dish to sample is Kasnocken (cheese dumplings with brown butter); more substantial choices might include traditional boiled beef. Enjoy your cappuccino with live piano accompaniment every Sunday from October to April. In summer, there is also terrace seating.
Allegedly the oldest tavern in Bregenz and close to the Upper Town, this rustic restaurant offers delicious traditional food and drinks in lively surroundings. Many say it's the most authentic Austrian eatery in town, great for tafelspitz (slow-cooked beef with horseradish). It also has tasty pasta dishes, including spicy spaghetti in a tomato, onion, bacon, and red pepper sauce. In spring, local asparagus is featured and later in the year the menu focuses on game. You won't go wrong with the apricot dumplings for dessert.
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