3 Best Sights in North Island's West Coast, New Zealand

Known as the Forgotten World Highway, Highway 43, heading northeast from Stratford, takes you on an intriguing, heritage-rich journey back in time as it winds through rolling farmland and dense rain forests to Taumarunui, the northern access point for the Whanganui River. You'll see few cars here, but there's no shortage of scenic sights. Highlights include Mt. Damper Falls (a side trip); spectacular views from three saddles and a lookout point; the steep, forest-filled Tangarakau Gorge; a road tunnel and historic railway; plus Whanganui River views. The 155-km (96-mile) highway is paved for all but 11 km (7 miles). Allow three hours, and be sure to fill your tank before leaving Stratford. If you need a break, drop into the vintage Whangamomona Hotel ( 6018 Ohura Rd.). More than a century old, it’s the only place to stop for refreshments along the Forgotten World Highway. Travelers who don’t feel like driving a car can sign on with Forgotten World Adventures ( www.forgottenworldadventures.co.nz), an outfit that lets you "ride the rails"—golf carts mounted on a decommissioned railway line. The self-drive carts reach a top speed of 20 kph (12 mph) as you're led along 140 km (87 miles) of stunning track; guided trips from three hours to two days are available.

Mt. Taranaki (Taranaki Maunga) is a receding presence in your rearview mirror as you head northeast up the Taranaki coast from New Plymouth on Highway 3. This is the most direct route to the Waitomo Caves and Hamilton, turning inland at Awakino, 90 km (56 miles) from New Plymouth. The Awakino Gorge, between Mahoenui and the coast, is appealing. Forest-filled scenic reserves are interspersed with stark, limestone outcrops and lush farmland. Look for well-worn sheep trails traversing the steep-sided hills. At the mouth of the Awakino River, little shacks dot the water's edge. These belong to seasonal fishers of the tiny migrating fish, whitebait. Awakino is worth a stop; the Awakino Hotel ( www.awakinohotel.com) offers a friendly country pub experience, or you could turn off the main road by the hotel to find a sheltered picnic spot beneath the summer-flowering pohutukawa trees. A little farther along is Mokau. Between September and November, if the whitebait are running, delicious whitebait fritters might be on the menu at the two little cafés nearby. From Awakino to Waitomo, allow about an hour.

For a little slice of New Zealand, take a scenic and historic drive along the river's lower reaches by following the Whanganui River Road from the city of Whanganui. Turn left off State Highway 4 15 minutes north of the city. The narrow rural road follows the river for 79 km (49 miles) north, as far as Pipiriki. It passes several small villages and historic sites (ask a local before venturing into any traditional Māori villages). Interpretive signs are progressively being added along the route to help visitors uderstand what they are looking at. Be sure to keep left, drive slowly, and watch for wandering livestock.