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Busan overflows with restaurants and cafes of every description. Portions are large and prices are reasonable so it's as easy to indulge in fine dining as it is in street food—options at both ends of the price scale are most likely serving local seafood specialties, particularly in the area around the Jagalchi Markets.
Gaya Milmyeon. A refreshing bowl of spicy or sour Milmyeon (cold wheat noodle dish) is just the thing on a swelting summer day. Milmyeon is a local specialty and is rumored to have been invented during the Korean War, when people from the northern provinces brought their noodle-making skills to Busan and used flour brought in by the US army. Milmyeon is a little chewier than other types of noodles and served with various toppings, like boiled egg and cucumber. It's a popular street food and the price is just right.
Located off a side street in Seomyeon Market, this is one of the most famous kalguksu (knife cut noodles) joints in the city. The broth is savory and clean, and the noodles are all made the old-school way: by hand. You can choose between mool (with broth) or bibim (no broth, with chili paste). Look for the line.
This perpetually busy restaurant been serving up nakji-bokkum (long-legged octopus) to Busanites for a handful of years now, and has quickly earned a reputation as one of the best joints in town. Customers can choose between three levels of heat (spicy, medium, or mild), as well as add favorites such as saewoo (shrimp), or for more adventurous eaters, gopchang (pork intestines) to the mix. Make sure to wash it all down with an ice-cold bottle of beer for maximum effect.
Housed in a hanok (traditional house) and tucked off the street by a short path lined with Korean pottery, Jeonglim is where Korean ladies lunch. While not completely vegetarian, the restaurant does specialize in vegetable dishes. The dolsotbap (rice dish in a hot stone pot) is prepared with locally grown, organic vegetable and is the perfect antidote for last night's heavy Korean barbeques. The meals start with a warm juk (rice porridge) flavored with pumpkin and is followed by what feels like an endless parade of small plates, like immaculately presented pickles and one-bite pajeons (pancake-like dish). The location can be a little difficult to find, so it is best to catch a taxi from nearby Dongnae station.
Perched on the 43rd floor of the Lotte Hotel, the Mugunghwa offers lucky diners sweeping views of the city and the distant hills. This elegant restaurant has five private rooms (for four to fifteen diners) in addition to its light, spacious main room. The cuisine emphasizes traditional Korean dishes, like galbi (grilled short ribs) and kimchi. The menu always offers courses that feature a good selection of local and seasonal fare, like Yeongdeok crab and seasonal fish. There's also an excellent Korean liquor list and a decent selection of wines.
Busan has a ton of Western-style coffee shops but for a taste of traditional Korean tea culture, head to Poong-Kyung. Traditionally dressed servers, with all of the poise that the costume deserves, whisk up cups of mulcha (powdered green tea) tableside—keep in mind that a cup should be drunk in three sips. Yu-cha (citrus tea) is also refreshing. A more modern alternative would be a sweet pumpkin latte and, for the less adventurous, black coffee.
Nothing says "Busan" more than its signature dish of dwaeji gukbap (pork rice soup), and Ssangdoongi is one of the most popular places in town. Warm your insides with pure savory goodness at this institution, but be prepared to wait, as there is often a line.
At this friendly, modern café, within easy reach of both Kyungsung and PNU universities, K-Pop hits play on a flat screen TV and college kids wolf down giant bowls of Bibimbap. This small restaurant is popular for their reasonable prices and large servings; menu items can be ordered individually or as part of a set menu. We recommend the house specialty, Garbi Bibimbap. It's a quick five-minute walk from exit five of Kyungsung Station.
This chain specializes in myriad varieties of bibimbap, Korea's healthy mixed-rice dish that has become synonymous with the country's cuisine. For the full experience, make sure to order the dolsot bibimbap, which comes sizzling in a hot stone pot.
This Busan institution is one of the best places in town to satisfy your craving for samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup). The broth is so clean tasting that it's almost medicinal, and the whole rice-stuffed chicken in your bowl is fall-off-the-bone tender. Woosung Samgyetang is located on a side street in the Suyeong neighborhood, just one subway stop away from Gwangalli. Be prepared to wait.
This chain is the go-to for dalk galbi (marinated boneless chicken), an often spicy stir-fried dish that seems to always hit the spot. Make sure to add rice and cheese to really elevate your meal into next-level goodness.
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