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Jerusalem’s dining scene is smaller and more modest than Tel Aviv's, but is steeped in 4,000 years of culinary traditions. Among Jewish residents, more than a century of immigration has infused the local fare with the best of Kurdish, Moroccan, French, Polish, Yemenite, and Italian flavors. On the Palestinian side, most restaurants rely on a rich heritage of family cooking. On both sides, an elite class of chefs has begun combining the best of local ingredients with advanced cooking techniques and imaginative serving styles.
All this is to say that when you’re in Jerusalem you can enjoy the best of both worlds: hole-in-the-wall eateries brimming with aromatic stews and garlicky hummus or high-end dining rooms serving inspired and elegant riffs on the city’s flavors and produce.
Some cuisine designations are self-explanatory, but other terms may be confusing. A restaurant billing itself as "dairy" will serve meals without meat; many such places do serve fish, in addition to pasta, soup, and salads. "Oriental" usually means Middle Eastern (in contrast to Western), often meaning hummus, kebabs, and stews.
The term kosher doesn’t imply a particular style of cooking, only that the cooks followed Jewish dietary law in selecting and preparing the food. In Jerusalem, where there are many kosher standards from which to choose, the selection can be dizzying. But unless specific kosher standards govern your eating habits, don't worry. Jerusalem is home to dozens of kosher restaurants preparing excellent food. Remember that most kosher restaurants are closed for Friday dinner and Saturday lunch in observation of the Jewish Sabbath. A generous handful of nonkosher cafés, bars, and restaurants remain open all weekend.
Dress codes are pretty much nonexistent in Jerusalem's restaurants (as in the rest of Israel). People tend to dress casually—jeans are perfectly appropriate almost everywhere anytime. A modicum of neatness and modesty (trousers instead of jeans, a button-down shirt instead of a T-shirt) might be expected in the more exclusive establishments. In conservative neighborhoods, women will feel more comfortable covered up. If you brought the kids, you're in luck: nearly every Israeli restaurant is kid-friendly, and many have special menus and high chairs.
This Viennese-style second-floor garden café in a guesthouse for pilgrims is a refined retreat from the chaos of the Old City markets down below. Lunch and dinner are available, and the deep burgundy walls, wooden tables, and classical music make this a lovely wintertime spot for light fare or dessert. Ask at reception about visiting the rooftop for a small fee: the views of the Old City are gorgeous.
This venerable pastry shop and café run by Itzik and Keren Kadosh is known for its array of airy croissants and inventive pastries, with an annual focus on doughnuts made during the Chanukah season, filled with fruit-based creams and topped with handmade confectionary.
This is where Jerusalemites go to have a loud, raucous good time and eat great Israeli food all in one fell swoop. It's all about the twists on local meat dishes, especially the meat-stuffed ravioli and asado risotto. Be sure to check out the hidden bar, Jacko's Son, behind the "fridge of Tequila bottles." It's tough to score a reservation, so call way in advance.
Jaffar specializes in kunafe, the Nablus sweet made of goat cheese topped with syrupy semolina crumbles. You may be tempted to split your first plate, but the treat soon grows addictive. Jaffar also makes sheets of golden baklava topped with nuts. It's a landmark, visited by locals and tourists alike, so anyone in the Old City can help you find it.
Sink into one of Menza's retro-style banquettes or take a seat around a robust wooden table for a deliciously prepared meal in this lovely café between downtown and Machaneh Yehuda market. Israeli breakfast or brunch dishes like croque monsieur are served as late as 1 pm, but be sure to stop by again in the evening to try the creative versions of bistro classics such as seared tuna niçoise salad. The menu also lists vegan options.
Just under the Jerusalem Theatre, Talbiye is a cozy neighborhood restaurant and wine bar specializing in French--Israeli cuisine. The soundtrack of classical music during the day and jazz at night, as well as the rustic-chic decor, provide a sophisticated atmosphere for a solid clientele of politicians, judges, and Jerusalemite intelligentsia. Don't miss the moules frites (mussels served with french fries) or the sea bream cooked in white wine, and finish off the rich meal with a baba au rhum, a small bundt cake doused in sweet rum.
Part of a workshop space for local artists, this landmark café has a fun and funky atmosphere. The menu is rich with sandwiches filled with delectable ingredients like avocado, feta cheese, or grilled vegetables, and they all come with side salads drizzled with a delightful basil dressing. If a sandwich isn't your style, try a quiche or a pasta dish. There's a slew of vegan-friendly dishes as well. At night, Jerusalem's hipsters come to drink beer or arak while discussing politics. A belowstairs performance space offers weekly spoken word events, musical performances, and lectures.
This cozy restaurant bar pays special attention to vegetarian and vegan entrees, alongside carefully concocted cocktails. The Jerusalem Mix, a tempeh and portobello mushroom dish served on a grilled pita with tahini is a wonder. Be sure to order the polenta fries.
The son of a prominent family of Iraqi bakers founded this airy, spacious bistro featuring fresh breads, pastries, and pastas. It's considered a top spot for brunch as well as Italian-style aperitivo in the evening, and the large wooden communal table is the perfect way to share a light meal with strangers. Try the salad dressed in Campari vinaigrette, the focaccia dotted with goat cheese and dates, or the ricotta gnocchi. If you're just passing through, consider taking home some of the expertly selected prepared foods and local offerings, like Israeli wines, olive oils, and liquors.
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