The South Restaurants

Churrasco (slow-grilled and -roasted meat), one of the most famous foods of Brazil, originated in Rio Grande do Sul. But the cuisine is eclectic here in cowboy country, and rice and beans sit on southern tables beside Italian and German dishes, thanks to the South's many European immigrants. Look for barreado, a dish from coastal Paraná made by stewing beef, bacon, potatoes, and spices for hours in a clay pot made airtight with moistened manioc flour. Café colonial is the elaborate 5 pm tea—with breads, pies, and German kuchen—popular among the Germans in the South.

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  • 1. Gambrinus

    $$$ | Centro

    Porto Alegre's best-known restaurant has been in business at the same spot, steps from city hall at the Mercado Público, since 1889. The walls are covered with Portuguese tiles, antiques, and period photographs exalting those early days. The restaurant is a popular happy-hour spot for politicians and businesspeople. The menu varies daily from beef to fish dishes. One of the highlights is the large Brazilian grey mullet stuffed with shrimp (served Friday and Saturday).

    Rua Borges de Medeiros 85, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 90020-020, Brazil
    051-3226–6914

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sat. Closed Sun., Credit cards accepted
  • 2. Valle Rústico

    $$$$ | Vale dos Vinhedos

    No restaurant is ever perfect, but Valle Rústico comes pretty close. The chef-owner Rodrigo Bellora—a Slow Food disciple—plucks organic ingredients from the garden and sources local produce to assemble simple but stunning dishes. The Italian-style, four-course set-menu (with three options per course) is a great value (R$78) and can be paired with local wines for an extra R$50. Unpretentious is the watchword here, from the dirt-road entrance to the dining room down in the basement of an old colonial house, where whitewashed walls and exposed wood beams lend a rustic, farmstead touch.

    Linha Marcilio Dias s/n, 15 da Graciema, Bento Gonçalves, Rio Grande do Sul, 95720-000, Brazil
    054-3459–1162

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Tues. No dinner Sun.
  • 3. Bistrô Isadora Duncan

    $$$$

    An eccentric little gem, Bistrô Isadora Duncan is best known for its romantic vibe and views over Lagoa da Conceição. The dark, wood-paneled interior is softly lighted by lamps and chandeliers at night. The food includes mystically named dishes such as enchanted shrimp (flambéed with orange and green pepper) and blessed shrimp (with a Gorgonzola sauce). Book a table on the veranda and marvel at the moon and the crab-catchers below, who wade out with nets and flashlights in the shallows of the lake.

    Rodovia Jornalista Manuel de Menezes 2658, Florianópolis, Santa Catarina, Brazil
    048-3232–7210

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.–Tues. and Aug. No lunch
  • 4. Casa do Barreado

    $$$ | Ponta do Cajú

    This small, family-run, buffet-style restaurant specializes in the traditional dish most associated with Paraná State: the barreado (meat stew simmered in a sealed clay pot). Because barreado takes 24 hours to cook, you must order it a day in advance. The prix-fixe menu includes galinha na púcara (chicken cooked in wine, tomato, and bacon sauce), several salads, and cachaças(Brazilian liquor distilled from sugarcane). Although the restaurant is officially open only on weekends, you can call ahead to arrange a dinner during the week.

    Rua José Antônio Cruz 78, Paranaguá, Paraná, 83206-452, Brazil
    041-3423–1830

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner. Closed weekdays, Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
  • 5. Galpão Costaneira

    $ | Centro

    This churrascaria in a picturesque wooden bungalow is your best bet for experiencing the ubiquitous southern Brazilian espeto-corrido (a continuous service of grilled meats). They also serve a fixed-price buffet with less advertised gaúcho dishes such as arroz de carreteiro (rice with dried beef), farofa (sautéed cassava flour), and cooked cassava. Traditional-music performances take place on Friday and Saturday.

    Rua Dona Úrsula 1069, Cambará do Sul, Rio Grande do Sul, 95480-000, Brazil
    054-3251–1005

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon., No credit cards
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  • 6. Galpão Crioulo

    $$$$ | Centro

    One of Porto Alegre's largest churrascarias, Galpão Crioulo serves traditional espeto-corrido—a prix-fixe, never-ending rotation of tender roasted and grilled meats brought to the table, accompanied by a salad buffet. If a full espeto-corrido sounds too much, ask for the miniespeto (a small sampler skewer of all meats). Another option is the comidas campeiras (countryside food) buffet, with plenty of dishes featuring rice, beans, and squash. You can also try chimarrão (a maté tea) at a tasting booth where the staff demonstrates the traditional way to drink it. Gaúcho musical performances take place in the evening.

    Rua Otávio Francisco Caruso da Rocha, Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 91110-440, Brazil
    051-3226–8194

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 7. Urucum

    $$$$

    The soft orange glow of lanterns sets a sultry tone by night at this top-end dining option in Praia do Rosa. Named after a bright red seed that’s used as a natural colorant, the restaurant’s focus is Brazilian cuisine, and in particular the hearty seafood stew, moqueca.. Whether you order yours with fish, shellfish, or extra spice, the moquecas more than feed two, and are served bubbling in clay pots, along with rice, farofa (toasted manioc flour), and pirão (a spicy seafood stock thickened with manioc flour). For dessert, don’t miss the creamy tapioca with frozen açaí.

    Estrada Geral do Rosa s/n, Santa Catarina, 88780-000, Brazil
    048-3355–7330

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