Fodor's Expert Review L'Obrador

Daniel Ancina, his wife Graciela, and a team of cooks will greet you at this typical ranch house, about 20 minutes from town; then they'll fill your wine glass, introduce you to the other guests, and seat you family-style at a long table. Regional cuisine rules; little pots of sauces for spreading on pan casero (homemade bread) line the center of the table and out of the mud-brick oven comes a platter of crisp baked empanadas followed by a protein—goat, lamb, beef, chicken, or chorizo.