Fodor's Expert Review Uma's

If you need evidence that Rockaway is becoming hip, look no further than this sceney spot serving a mix of Russian and Central Asian specialties. There are juicy pelmeni (meat) and manti (spicy lamb) dumplings, lagman noodles, and savory filled pastries known as bichaki, plus the expected very good borscht. Pressed tin ceilings, exposed-brick walls, and menus written on blackboards give the place a decidedly Brooklyn vibe.