Skiing and Snowboarding

Whitefish Mountain Resort . The Whitefish Mountain Resort on Big Mountain has been one of Montana's top ski areas since the 1930s. Eight miles from Whitefish, it's popular among train travelers from the Pacific Northwest and the upper Midwest. The Base Lodge houses a Kids Center, bar and cafe, shop, and office for lift tickets, rentals, and lockers. Chair 6 is directly off the upper-level exit. The snow season runs from early December through early April.

The mountain's most distinctive features are its widely spaced trees, which—when encased in snow—are known as snow ghosts. It's 3,000 skiable acres, plus out-of-bounds areas, are serviced by 11 chairlifts: three high-speed quads, two fixed-grip quads, and four triples. Two T-bars and a magic carpet round out the uphill transportation.

Whitefish Mountain offers a lot of terrain to explore and many different lines to discover among those widely spaced trees. The pleasure of exploration and discovery—such as finding a fresh cache of powder many days after a snowstorm—is perhaps the main reason to ski Whitefish Mountain. Easy discovery comes with the help of free tours by mountain ambassadors. They meet intermediate skiers near the bottom of the Big Mountain Express, at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm daily.

In general the pitch is in the intermediate to advanced-intermediate range; there's not a whole lot of super-steep or super-easy skiing, though recent improvements are correcting this. A sameness in pitch, however, doesn't mean a sameness in skiing. With trails falling away on all sides of the mountain, there is a tremendous variation in exposure and hence in snow texture; also take into consideration the number of trees to deal with and the views (the best being northeast toward Glacier National Park).

Five terrain parks provide aerial fun for the bravest freestylers, and Chair 3 on the front side provides access to four of them. The fifth, the Goat Haunt Skier/Boarder Cross Course, is accessed from Chair 7.

The only downside can be the weather. Foggy days are not uncommon; at those times you're thankful that those snow ghosts are around as points of reference. Sometimes, however, the fog is low enough that you can ski above it, as if you're skiing in heaven.

During the summer months the mountain comes alive with wildflowers and an abundance of activities provided by the resort. Ride the lift up the mountain and rent one of their mountain bikes to ride down. Go for a "walk in the treetops" from a boardwalk suspended in the trees and guided by expert naturalists. The zipline tour will carry you at 50 miles per hour to a height of more than 100 feet in the air. Children and adults alike will enjoy the thrill of the Alpine Slide as you race down the mountain on your own sled. 3808 Big Mountain Rd., Whitefish, Montana, 59937. 406/862–2900; 877/754–3474; 406/862–1995; www.skiwhitefish.com. Early Dec.–early Apr. and mid-June–mid-Sept., daily 9–4; Fri. and Sat. night skiing until 8:30 late Dec.–early Mar..

Backcountry Skiing & Snowboarding

Because of an unusually liberal policy regarding skiing out-of-bounds, backcountry powder skiing is possible from the top of Whitefish Mountain. For the most part, the ski patrol does not prevent riders from crossing ski-area boundary ropes, although if you do so and get into trouble, you’re responsible for paying rescue costs. Those who choose to travel out-of-bounds run a high risk of getting lost: it’s easy to ski too far down the wrong drainage, creating the prospect of a tiring and excruciating bushwhack back to the base.

Glacier Country Avalanche Center. The backcountry avalanche danger varies with the winter snowpack, so it's best to check the local avalanche forecast with Glacier Country Avalanche Center and to carry transceivers, probe poles, shovels, and, most important, a knowledge of backcountry safety and first aid. Call the avalanche forecast hotline if you are planning to go out. Flathead Avalanche Center, 10 Hungry Horse Dr., Whitefish, Montana, 59919. 406/387–3887; 406/257--8402; www.flatheadavalanche.org.

Lessons and Programs

Group instruction in downhill is offered for $75 for two half-day lessons (plus two lower-mountain lift tickets); cross-country, telemark skiing, and snowboarding lessons are also available. Specialty clinics such as racing, mogul, and telemark techniques are also available, as are children’s programs.

Ski and Snowboard School. Group ski and snowboard lessons start at $89 for a half-day, including lower-mountain lift ticket; cross-country, telemark skiing, and adaptive lessons are also available. Specialty clinics such as racing, mogul, and freestyle techniques are also available, as are children’s programs. Whitefish, Montana, 59937. 406/862–2900; www.skiwhitefish.com.

Nordic Skiing

There are two machine-groomed track systems in the Whitefish area: both systems serve their purpose well enough, but don’t expect inspiring views or a sense of wilderness seclusion. Visit the Glacier Nordic Club website for more information.

Big Mountain Trails. The Big Mountain trails offer 15 miles of groomed trails. 3315 Big Mountain Rd., Whitefish, Montana. 406/862–9498; www.glaciernordicclub.org.

Glacier Nordic Club. The well-groomed trails of the Glacier Nordic Touring Center meander around the rolling grounds of the Whitefish Lake Golf Course and are suitable for all levels, from children to serious fitness skiers. 1200 U.S. 93 W, Whitefish, Montana, 59937. 406/862--9498; www.glaciernordicclub.com.

Snowmobiling

There are more than 200 groomed snowmobile trails in the Flathead region. Unless you are an experienced snowmobiler and expert at avalanche forecasting, you should take a guided trip.

Whitefish Marine. This outfitter rents boats and water accessories in summer and leases snowmobiles and provides guided snowmobile tours in winter 5960 U.S. 93 S, Whitefish, Montana, 59937. 406/862–8594; www.whitefishmarine.com. From $250.

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