50 Best Sights in The Central and Southern Aegean Coast, Turkey

The sandy beach at Alaçatı, about 6 km (nearly 4 miles) south of town, is ideal for windsurfing, with strong winds and few waves. Unfortunately, there is only a small public beach here, but many of the comfortable private beach clubs and hotels with private beaches allow nonguests for a day rate. The water is cooler at Alaçatı than it is at other beaches, and stunningly blue over the pale, fine sand. In addition to windsurfing, water sports like waterskiing, banana boat rides, and kitesurfing are available here. Amenities: food and drink; toilets; showers; water sports. Best for: windsurfing.

Though most of what you see today dates from the 1st and 2nd century AD, archaeological evidence indicates that the local dedication to Aphrodite follows a long history of veneration of pre-Hellenic goddesses, such as the Anatolian mother goddess and the Babylonian god Ishtar. Only about half of the site has been excavated. It's much less crowded than Ephesus, and enough remains to conjure the ancient city. Once you reach the pretty, rural site, you'll take a short, bumpy ride on an open-air shuttle from the parking area to the main gate. The lovely Tetrapylon gateway has four rows of columns and some of the better remaining friezes. Behind it, the vast Temple of Aphrodite was built in the 1st century BC on the model of the great temples at Ephesus, and later transformed into a basilica church. Its gate and many of its columns are still standing. The impressive, well-preserved 1st century AD stadium could seat up to 30,000 spectators to watch footraces, boxing and wrestling matches. You'll also find the once-magnificent ruined residence, the fine Odeon (also known as the Bouleuterion, or Council House); an intimate, semicircular concert hall and public meeting room; towering public baths; and the sprawling agora. The 7,000 white-marble seats of the city's theater, built into the side of a small hill, are simply dazzling on a bright day. The adjacent School of Philosophy has a colonnaded courtyard with chambers lining both sides.

In the museum, just before the ticket booth, Aphrodisias bursts back into life in vivid friezes and sculptures that seem almost about to draw breath. The museum's collection includes dozens of impressive statues and reliefs from the site, including Aphrodite herself, with excellent labeling (particularly in the grand display in the Sevgi Gönül Salonu) explaining their significance and symbolism.

One of the Turkey's best preserved ancient cities, UNESCO World Heritage Site, and target of most cruises' disembarking passengers, Bergama, lies just 40 km (25 miles) east down a well-trodden tourist path. Known during Greek and Roman times as Pergamon, the city was renowned for its arts and medicine. Its lofty status is confirmed by a treasure trove of ruins including temples, palaces, shops, a library, and a 10,000-seat theater, the steepest of its age. In the center of the new town, many artifacts are on display at the archaeology museum.

Built in the early 15th century by the Knights Hospitaller (Knights of St. John), the Petronion, better known as Bodrum Castle or the Castle of St. Peter, rises between Bodrum's twin harbors like an illustration from a fairy tale. With German knight-architect Heinrich Schlegelholt at the helm, the knightly builders plundered the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus for green volcanic stone, marble columns, and reliefs to create this showpiece of late-medieval architecture, whose walls are studded with 249 coats of arms, including the crests of the Plantagenets and d'Aubussons. The castle's towers and gardens are visible from many parts of town, and the name "Bodrum" itself likely derives from the word Petronion. Some of the castle's towers are named after the homelands of the knights who built them: France, Germany, Italy, and England (the English Tower, embellished with a relief of a lion, is known as the Lion Tower, and contains a replica of a medieval hall). The castle now houses the fascinating Museum of Underwater Archaeology, where displays include the world's oldest excavated shipwreck (Uluburun), the tomb of the so-called "Carian Princess," and the sunken cargoes of many ancient and medieval ships that sank off the treacherous Aegean coast.

Constructed during the reign of Sultan Bayezid II (ruled 1481–1512) to defend the port, this castle is very picturesque, with its stone walls often lined with sun-basking lizards and tortoises. The keep is often deep in wildflowers. The castle houses a small Archaeology Museum, displaying weaponry from the glory days of the Ottoman Empire, cannons from 18th-century sea skirmishes with the Russians, and a modest collection of ancient artifacts. Clamber around the towers for sweeping views of the sea and the city; keep close watch on kids around the less-than-secure railings.

If you're looking for beaches, either head north from Kuşadası to Pamucak or travel 33 km (20 miles) south to this lovely national park, which has good hiking trails through woods and canyons and several quiet stretches of sand. The İçmeler beach, closest to the entrance, is also the most crowded. Travel 15 minutes to Karaburun for a more low-key atmosphere. The beaches are clean, with nearby picnic tables, toilets, changing cabins, and outdoor showers, but you should bring your own food and drink. (Note that the park is only open to a limited number of private vehicles a day.) You can catch a Güzelçamlı-bound dolmuş/minibus from Kuşadaşı or nearby transport hub Söke that will take visitors into the park and make a circuit of some of the most popular beaches. The park also contains the so-called "Cave of Zeus," and an archaeological site from when the peninsula was known as Mycale.

The ruin of Ephesus, once the most important Greco-Roman city of the eastern Mediterranean, is one of the best preserved ancient sites in the world. Today, modern travelers can trace the splendor and collapse of ancient civilizations in Ephesus's spectacular landscape of ruined temples, theaters, and colonnaded streets. There are two entrances to the site, which is on a hill: one at the top of the site (Üst Kapı, or Upper Gate) and one at the bottom (Alt Kapı, or Lower Gate—this is where to find the public dolmuş stop). The main avenue is about a mile long but there are a number of intriguing detours, so a minimum visit of two hours can easily stretch to four. Buy water and a light snack in Selçuk town before you head for Ephesus. In summer, when shade is at a premium, a hat is a very good idea. Highlights of the site include the spectacular theater, backed by the western slope of Mt. Pion, which once seated an estimated 25,000 to 40,000 spectators; the beautiful, two-story Library of Celsus; and the terrace houses, the multistoried houses of the nobility, with terraces and courtyards (which have a separate entrance fee). See the highlighted Ephesus feature in this chapter for more information.

This small museum has one of the best collections of Roman and Greek artifacts found anywhere in Turkey. The well-displayed and labeled holdings date from the neolithic to Ottoman periods and include fine sculptures, friezes, mosaics, and reliefs. The elaborately carved white statues of Artemis are particularly notable, while the exhibit of jewelry, cosmetics, medical instruments, and housewares from Ephesus's terrace houses gives an intimate glimpse into day-to-day life in the ancient city.

Konak Meydanı marks the start of this energetic marketplace, encircled by Anafartalar Caddesi, that spills into a maze of tiny streets, filled with shops and covered stalls. In the smaller side streets, you'll find tiny districts dedicated to musical instruments, leather, costume jewelry, and accessories, among other things. Begin at a restored Ottoman kervansaray, the Kızlarağası Hanı, completed around 1745. Downstairs, its vaulted shops mostly sell cheesy souvenirs, while the quieter upper floor, where some artisans still have their workshops, is a peaceful spot for a cup of tea or for poking through the antique dealers' old books and records. The nearby, late-16th-century Hisar Camii (one of the largest and oldest in İzmir) is worth a peek, and is surrounded by kebab joints shaded by large trees. Go farther into Kemeraltı and you'll wind up at Havra Sokağı, an outdoor market full of stalls selling spices, fruits, and other foodstuffs. Among this labyrinth of streets you'll also find the crumbling remains of numerous old synagogues, some of which are being restored.

The lively and pleasant waterfront promenade is the most popular section of town and is perfect for a summer stroll; many locals use the sea breeze to fly kites. It starts at the Pasaport ferry pier and stretches north to Alsancak. Along the grassy, waterfront strip are several excellent seafood restaurants and cafés, all with outdoor seating overlooking the Aegean sea. It's fun to tour the area by fayton (horse-drawn carriage); they are stationed in the Cumhuriyet Meydanı, steps from the beginning of the Kordon (be sure to agree to a fair price in advance).

The name means "brilliant" or "diamond" and this beach outside Çiftlikköy certainly has seawater that's as clear as glass, gentle and shallow (you can sit in the water and read a book!). The waters are warmer here than at nearby beaches such as Altınkum, and mercifully free of seaweed or sea urchins. The pale, fine sand is usually clean, the beach peaceful, and there are changing rooms. You can snorkel, but kitesurfing is prohibited. If you want shade, you'll have to rent a beach chair and umbrella from the snack shack. There are many motels and pensions near this area, as well as a campground. Amenities: food and drink; parking; toilets. Best for: sunbathing; swimming; walking.

Step through the impressive, pre-Justinianic marble portal (its huge blocks likely plundered from the nearby Temple of Artemis) to approach the basilica, which sits below the crenellated walls of the Fortress of Ayasuluk, likely covering the site of the most ancient settlement in Selçuk. In the 6th century AD, after earthquakes destroyed the modest church believed to mark the grave of St. John the Evangelist, Byzantine Emperor Justinian and his wife Theodora commanded that a grand marble basilica be erected over the site on Ayasuluk Hill, its eleven domes grand enough to rival the imperial pair's other legendary building project, Hagia Sophia. The basilica's barrel-vaulted roof collapsed after another long-ago earthquake, but the ruined church is still an incredibly evocative sight, with its labyrinth of halls and marble courtyards, and occasional mosaic fragments. Both the basilica and the fortress, the work of Byzantine, Seljuk, and Ottoman builders, provide stunning views of the Plain of Ephesus and the İsa Bey Mosque. Come by in the early morning or late afternoon when there are rarely crowds; if arriving later in the day, be sure to visit the fortress first---it closes earlier than the basilica area.

Known for its windmills, trendy cafés, boutiques, and gourmet restaurants, this pretty village has become wildly popular of late. On summer evenings, the main strip of Alaçatı bustles with hip crowds; to avoid the hubbub come in the afternoon, when the crowd is mostly locals and store owners, although it can get very hot and many restaurants don't open until later in the day. Wander the backstreets to see picturesque Greek houses (many turned into boutique hotels) and the Greek church-turned-mosque (Pazaryeri Camii), where a curtain hides 19th-century Orthodox icons at prayer times. Tiny outdoor cafés selling tea, lemonade, plum juice (erik suyu), and mastic-infused Turkish coffee cluster under the windmills overlooking town, a popular spot for wedding photos.

Stretching inland from the breezy Kordon waterfront, the trendy, upscale neighborhood now known as Alsancak ("red banner," a reference to the Turkish flag) was called Punta in the Ottoman era, when many Christians and Jews lived here. Look closely, and you'll notice there are still a number of synagogues and churches in the area. Pedestrianized main street Kibris Şehitler Caddesi is like a smaller version of Istanbul's İstiklal Caddesi, with lively bars, cafés, and restaurants filling its side streets. Though Alsancak is mostly slick and modern, pretty two- and three-story Levantine houses with bay windows are tucked away along some of the backstreets, which perk up at night with an influx of young İzmirians.

For a break after all the history, continue another 5 km (3 miles) from Didyma south to Altınkum, popular for its pale-sand beach. The sand stretches for a bit less than 1 km (½ mile) and is bordered by a row of bars, restaurants, and hotels, all facing the water. At peak times, a lifeguard watches over the 500-yard, Blue Flag–designated public beach (halk plajı), which quickly gets crowded in summertime. There are some Jet Skis and pedal boats for rent at either end of the halk plajı. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: swimming.

The name is Turkish for "golden sand," and this beach has crystal-clear and calm water lapping the silky sand. The area has yet to undergo a huge development boom and there are many private and public beaches to choose from, most with shallow waters. You can rent a beach chair and umbrella at many points along the beach for a very reasonable price compared to trendier beach clubs. Amenities: food and drink; parking; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: swimming; walking.

Construction of the magnificent, 5,000-seat ancient theater began during the 4th century BC reign of King Mausolus, back when Bodrum was known as Halicarnassus of Caria. The Hellenistic theater was used and updated through the Roman era, and remains one of the ancient city's best-preserved monuments; it is still used for concerts and other performances. The view of Bodrum and the Aegean sea is breathtaking from this high, hillside vantage point, though the outlook is marred by the loud, busy highway that runs alongside the theater.

Though badly in need of refurbishing, İzmir's showplace for archaeology holds some notable treasures. Look over the railing in the lobby, down at what must have once been a spectacular classical mosaic of lions, peacocks, and other brightly colored creatures, then wander down haunting (but pitiably lit) halls of statuary, which include a front-row Hellenistic theater seat carved with griffins, and evocative Roman faces. Upstairs you'll find unusual painted ceramic sarcophagi (and the heartbreaking skeleton of a Byzantine newborn), and a Hellenistic bronze of a running athlete—and there's a neat view of the city. An English-language audio guide is included in the price of admission (though you'll need to present your passport or other ID to borrow the player and headset) and is highly recommended.

The most sheltered water and trendiest spot for a dip is at this dazzling turquoise bay named after St. George, Turkey's legendary dragon-slayer. A quick drive from Çeşme center, near Boyalık Bay, Ayayorgi Bay's beach clubs and restaurants are ever-popular with hip İzmirians and Istanbullus. There's no public beach, so plan to hang out at one of the swanky beach clubs (Paparazzi is a snazzy favorite, while Kafe Pi has a more youthful vibe), which metamorphose into beach bars as the sun goes down, often with live music. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: partiers; swimming.

Named for St. Charalambos (also known as Haralambos), a local bishop martyred at the age of 113, and whose skull is still venerated in Greece, this large, early-19th-century Greek basilica church is a relict of Çeşme's former Greek Orthodox inhabitants, and was restored by the municipality in 2012. The space is now used as a cultural center that hosts art exhibitions and handicrafts bazaars. If it's open for one of these events, it's worth taking a peek inside as you stroll down the main street of Çeşme's shopping district; look up to see painted saints peering down at you from the ceiling.

Just west of Ilıca, Boyalık Bay has a 5-km (3-mile) beachfront of warm turquoise waters and pale, smooth sand. Boyalık Bay has many private and public beaches and hotels, as well as a campground. You may have to walk between summer residences to reach the sea. But once you reach the shore, you will find clear, relatively calm waters over smooth, almost milky-colored sand, with umbrellas and beach chairs available to rent. Boyalık Bay is getting better known, but its relaxing waters are not yet as crowded as Ilıca beach. Amenities: food and drink; toilets. Best for: swimming.

Dominating a peninsula 16 km (10 miles) south of Dikili, the castle maintains its regal appearance after 700 years. Originally built by the Genoese and later strengthened by the Ottomans, the massive stone fortress impresses with its five towers and thick, crenellated walls. The interior, although restored, remains mostly open space, but strolls along the walls are possible and the views are excellent.

According to the legend attached to the Cave of the Seven Sleepers (and immortalized in a poem by Goethe), seven young Christian men hid in a cave to avoid persecution by the Romans in the 3rd century AD. They fell into a sleep that lasted 200 years, waking only after the Byzantine Empire had made Christianity the official state religion. When they died, they were buried here, and a large church and monastery complex was built over them. The site has unfortunately been closed off due to the collapse of much of the cave but it's still interesting to peek through the fence at the ruins or look down at them from the adjacent hillside.

In the olive tree-covered hills above Bodrum, the “culture and arts village” of Dibeklihan is a pretty complex of traditional stone buildings holding artist studios, galleries, boutiques, and a couple of cafés and restaurants. It’s a pleasant place for shopping or dinner, and there is sometimes live music on summer evenings. It’s close to Yakaköy village on the outskirts of Ortakent, and best reached with your own transportation.

Didyma's Temple of Apollo is as grand in scale as the Parthenon—measuring 623 feet by 167 feet—and has 124 well-preserved columns, some still supporting their architraves. Started in 300 BC and under construction for nearly five centuries, the temple was never completed, and some of the columns remain unfluted. The oracle here rivaled the one at Delphi, and beneath the courtyard is a network of underground corridors used by temple priests for their oracular consultations. The corridor walls would throw the oracle's voice into deep and ghostly echoes, which the priests would interpret. The tradition of seeking advice from a sacred oracle here probably started long before the arrival of the Greeks, who in all likelihood converted an older Anatolian cult based at the site into their own religion. The Greek oracle had a good track record, and at the birth of Alexander the Great (356 BC) predicted that he would be victorious over the Persians, that his general Seleucus would later become king, and that Trajan would become an emperor. Around AD 385, the popularity of the oracle dwindled with the rise of Christianity. The temple was later excavated by French and German archaeologists, and its statues are long gone, hauled back to England by Sir Charles Newton in 1858. Fragments of bas-reliefs on display by the entrance to the site include a gigantic head of Medusa (twin of the one in Istanbul's underground cistern, across from Hagia Sophia) and a small statue of Poseidon and his wife, Amphitrite. You can rent a combined Miletus and Didyma audio guide for 20 TL.

Of the three beaches in Dikili awarded blue flags for their water quality, environmental management, safety, and services, the public beach is the most popular and accessible. Starting just north of the port, almost 6 km (4 miles) of dark golden sand stretch along the water. The beach is well stocked with umbrellas, sunbeds, and people selling refreshments. Lifeguards keep watch most of the day, but not always. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; toilets. Best for: sunset; swimming.

This delightfully hokey museum, across the street from the Archaeology Museum, focuses on folk art and daily life. The collection includes everything from a reconstructed Ottoman bridal chamber (the mannequin groom looks like he's had second thoughts) to camel-wrestling gear, 19th-century embroidery, and a reconstruction of an old İzmir pharmacy.

There aren't many sights in Kuşadası proper, but the causeway just south of the harbor connects the town to an old Genoese castle on Güvercin Adası (Pigeon Island). Once home to three infamous Turkish pirate brothers in the 16th century, the fortress has been restored and opened to visitors, with its tree-studded grounds providing a lovely space for strolling, relaxing, and taking in the sea and city vistas. To the right of the castle entrance, there’s a swimming platform well-used by locals in summer (despite the proximity to the city center, the water appears quite clean) and a casual café serving reasonably priced snacks and drinks with a million-dollar view.