The Pyrenees Restaurants

In the Alta Pyrenees, the cozy stone-wall inns, with their hearty cuisine and comfortable interiors, are a welcome sight after a day's hiking or sightseeing. Often family run and relaxed, they rarely have any kind of dress code and, often, a nourishing meal is brought to a close with a complimentary local chupito (shot) of liqueur, finishing the night off with a satisfying thump. Back down in the main cities, restaurants take inspiration from these traditional methods, but offer a more contemporary style and setting.

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  • 1. Can Po

    $

    In this ivy-covered stone-and-mortar farmhouse perched over a deep gully in nearby Rocabruna, feast on carefully prepared local dishes like vedella amb crema de ceps (veal in wild mushroom sauce) and the Catalan classic oca amb peres (goose stewed with pears). In winter, spring for the civet de porc senglar (stewed wild boar) or any of the wild mushroom dishes.

    Ctra. de Beget, 17867, Spain
    972-741045

    Known For

    • Hearty mountain cuisine
    • Cozy ambience
    • Soul-satisfying stews

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon.–Thurs.
  • 2. Can Ventura

    $$$$

    In a flower-festooned 17th-century stone house is one of La Cerdanya's finest restaurants, which serves elevated Catalan fare with French touches. Beef a la llosa and duck with orange and spices are house specialties, and the wide selection of entretenimientos (hors d'oeuvres or tapas) is the perfect way to begin. Ask about wine selections, game, and wild mushrooms in season.

    Pl. Major 1, 17527, Spain
    972-896178

    Known For

    • Beef seared on hot slate
    • Cozy mountain lodge setting
    • Additional bar area for drinks and tapas

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Thurs., No dinner Sun.
  • 3. Casa Rufus

    $$$$

    Pine walls and floors, red-and-white-check curtains, and flowy white tablecloths furnish this stuck-in-time restaurant in the gray-stone village of Gessa, between Vielha and Salardú. Try the rabbit stuffed with veal and pork, or call ahead to order an off-menu civet of mountain goat or venison. Book ahead as hours are unpredictable.

    Carrer Sant Jaume 8, 25598, Spain
    973-645246

    Known For

    • One of the best restaurants in the area
    • Wide selection of local meat dishes
    • Good stop-off on way to or from the Baqueira ski slopes

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. (seasonal closures after Easter--June)
  • 4. Donamaria'ko Benta

    $$

    This family-run restaurant and B&B in a former 19th-century residence has a crackling fire in winter and a willow-shaded patio in summer. Prix fixes change seasonally and center on well-executed classics like secreto ibérico con crema de hongos (Iberian pork steak with wild mushroom cream) and txangurro a la Donostiarra (baked crab). Rooms fill up fast in August and public holidays.

    Barrio de las Ventas 4, 31750, Spain
    948-450708

    Known For

    • Riverside dining in summer
    • Traditional Navarran recipes
    • Friendly service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Dec. 10–Jan. 5. No dinner Sun.
  • 5. El Tubo Neighborhood

    $$

    El Tubo, the area surrounding the intersection of Calle Estébanes and Calle Libertad, is tapas central. Try to stick to one tapa per bar so you can sample as many spots as possible. El Champi (Calle Libertad 16) isn't much to look at, but this tiny establishment serves killer griddled mushrooms stacked on bread to soak up the garlic-infused oil. Bodegas Almau (Calle Estébanes 10) has shelves heaving with wine bottles and a bar stacked with gargantuan pinchos, which regulars gobble down in the standing-room-only barroom. The vermut con anchoas (a small plate of anchovies and a serving of house vermouth) is classic. La Republicana (Calle Casto Méndez Núñez 38) is a quaint antique space with a wide selection of tapas and migas (fried breadcrumbs) that rival those of the more famous La Miguería (Calle Estébanes 4), laden with garlic, olive oil, crispy chorizo, and optional lacy fried egg. A few steps away, Taberna Doña Casta (Calle Estébanes 6) fries up a lengthy list of inventive croquettes. Sin Nombre (Calle Libertad 7) serves cheffier tapas than the aforementioned and accompanies them with a varied wine list. 

    Calle Estébanes, 50003, Spain

    Known For

    • Variety of tapas bars
    • Lively atmosphere
    • Packed pedestrianized streets
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  • 6. Era Coquèla

    $$$$

    On a bank overlooking the Garonne, the white-tablecloth, tile-floor Era Coquèla is a Vielha institution, beloved by local families, repeat vacationers, and even truck drivers passing through town. Roast meats, civets (wine-and-game stews), and seasonal vegetable dishes are native-son chef Marc Nus's strongest suits—all are served by an enthusiastic and knowledgeable staff.

    Avenguda Garona 29, 25530, Spain
    97-3642915

    Known For

    • Well-priced set menus at lunch and dinner
    • Local favorite
    • Removed from the tourist bustle

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon., No dinner Sun.
  • 7. Fogony

    $$$$

    Come here for seasonal and contemporary creations from an acclaimed chef and supporter of the slow-food movement, with a prix fixe menu that may include dishes such as pollo a la cocotte con trufa (organic bluefoot chicken with truffle) and solomillo de ternera de los Pirineos con ligero escabeche de verduras y setas (filet of Pyrenean veal with marinated vegetables and mushrooms). This restaurant is one of the best of its kind in the Pyrenees and, if you hit Sort at lunchtime, it makes an excellent reason to stop. The "Kilometer Zero" lunch prix fixe is €45.

    Av. Generalitat 45, 25560, Spain
    973-621225

    Known For

    • Part of the slow food movement
    • Family run
    • Award-winning menu

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. and Tues., No dinner Sun.
  • 8. Las Torres

    $$$

    Huesca's top restaurant makes inventive use of local ingredients like wild mushrooms, wild boar, venison, and lamb. The glass-walled kitchen is as inviting as the food that emerges from it, and the wine list is strong on Somontano, Huesca's own D.O. A recent menu included dishes like crispy pork knuckle with revolcona (paprika-garlic) mash and roast turbot with crab cream and a seafood macaron.

    Calle María Auxiliadora 3, Huesca, Aragon, 22002, Spain
    974-228213

    Known For

    • Aragonese with a modern twist
    • Terrific tasting menus
    • Excellent value

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sun.–Tues. Closed 2 wks over Easter and last 2 wks of Aug.
  • 9. Palomeque

    $$$$

    For upscale tapas, sharable raciones, and a more sedate atmosphere, step into Palomeque. Dishes hinge on market produce and fuse traditional recipes with playful modern plating. Staff are happy to recommend wine pairings for any of the zany, updated versions of risotto, gazpacho, and other restaurant standbys.

    Calle Agustín Palomeque 11, 50004, Spain
    976-214082

    Known For

    • Dishes with local produce and meats
    • Charmingly dated decor
    • Hidden gem

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun., No dinner Sat.
  • 10. A'Borda Samper

    $$

    At this wood-beamed barroom, dine on comfort-food tapas and mains like battered zucchini, meatballs bobbing in tomato sauce, fried eggs with sausage, and juicy steaks. 

    Calle Travecinal, Spain
    619-321757

    Known For

    • Affordable country cooking
    • House-made desserts
    • Genial service
  • 11. Asador Ixarso

    $$$

    Roast goat or lamb cooked over a raised fireplace in the corner of the dining room is why this place is a fine refuge in chilly weather. The revuelto de setas (a scrambled egg dish with a variety of other ingredients) is a classic highland specialty, while the salads are varied and refreshing, especially after a morning or afternoon of skiing, hiking, or climbing. The mixed grill is a house favorite, and the opportunity to try whatever game—venison, wild boar, or partridge—is on the menu should not be missed.

    Calle San Pedro 12, Benasque, Aragon, 22440, Spain
    974-552057

    Known For

    • Traditional chuleton (thick cut bone-in rib steak)
    • Venison, wild boar, and other game
    • Posthike dining

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed mid-Sept.–Nov. and Apr.–mid-June
  • 12. Casa Galarza

    $$

    Stop here for Basque and Navarran comfort food served in an old stone house on the river. Start with any of the local vegetable specialties, such as tender asparagus spears swimming in tangy vinaigrette, before digging into heftier mains like monkfish-stuffed piquillo peppers and (seasonally) roast squab and milk-fed lamb.

    Calle Santiago 1, 31700, Spain
    948-580101

    Known For

    • Old-school Basque cooking
    • House-made desserts
    • Wood-beam dining room

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues., be prepared for sporadic weekly closures
  • 13. Casa Pardina

    $$$$

    Romantic dining at a reasonable price is the main draw at this restaurant with two fixed-price menus offering dozens of dishes to choose from. The cuisine is distinctly Aragonese with a few modern twists (think local venison stewed with dates, plums, and honey), and the wine hails from nearby Somontano. Every meal starts with a flight of olive oils. The small, inviting dining room with arched stone walls make Pardina a cozy choice in winter, but summer visitors shouldn't miss the outdoor terrace overlooking the Sierra de Guara and San Miguel church.

    Calle Medio, 22145, Spain
    974-318425

    Known For

    • Outdoor dining with sweeping views
    • Set menu only
    • Locally sourced ingredients and local olive oil

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Hours change seasonally, call ahead
  • 14. El Molí

    $$$$

    A picturesque riverside location, knotty pine walls, wood beams, and a rustic prix fixe that highlights regional specialties make this a lovely spot for a meal. There is a ground-floor dining room with large windows that frame a broad sweep of the river and a second, smaller dining room tucked up in the attic.

    Carrèr Sarriulèra 26, 25530, Spain
    973-641718

    Known For

    • Aged Pyrenean beef cooked over coals
    • River views
    • Flame-licked calçots (Catalan green onions) in season

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Wed.
  • 15. El Rebeco

    $$

    In this graceful, rustic building in the upper part of town, the dining rooms are lined with historic photographs of Torla during the 19th and 20th centuries, and in late fall, civets of deer, boar, and mountain goat are the order of the day. In summer, lighter fare and hearty mountain soups restore hikers between treks. The black-marble-and-stone floor and the cadiera—a traditional open fireplace room with an overhead smoke vent—are extraordinary original elements of Pyrenean architecture.

    Calle Fatás 55, Torla, Aragon, 22376, Spain
    974-486068

    Known For

    • Traditional Pyrenean architecture
    • Inviting terrace
    • Slow service so adjust accordingly

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Nov.–Easter
  • 16. Era Mola

    $$$

    This rustic former stable with whitewashed walls serves Aranese dishes with a modern, often French twist. Duck, either stewed with apples or served with carreretes (wild mushrooms from the valley), and roast lamb are favorites, as is foie gras de pato con pistachos con caramelo de Pedro Ximenez (duck foie gras with pistachios and Pedro Ximenez syrup). The wine list is particularly strong on Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and Somontano reds, as well as full-bodied whites, such as Albariños from Rías Baixas and Ruedas from Valladolid.

    Carrer Marrec 14, Vielha, Catalonia, 25530, Spain
    973-642419

    Known For

    • Excellent service
    • Specialty of pigs' trotters stuffed with mushrooms and truffle sauce
    • Traditional cuisine from Vall d'Aran

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed May, June, and Oct. No lunch weekdays Dec.–Apr. (except during Christmas and Easter wks), Reservations essential
  • 17. Fontao

    $$

    Fontao may not look like much, what with its humdrum entrance and and 90's banquet-like dining room, but the kitchen delivers well-executed Aragonés dishes with welcomed Galician flare. Delightful proteins and carbs abound, but don't miss their salad offerings (like the warm escalivada with goat cheese) which are a nice relief from the meaty cuisine of the region.

    Calle Saturnino López Novoa 3, 22005, Spain
    974-220505

    Known For

    • Galician influence
    • Warm, personal service
    • Optional weekday prix fixe menus for €16

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Tues. and Wed.
  • 18. La Carrasca Tapas

    $$

    Coveted mountain views on the sprawling Plaza Mayor terrace are the primary draw to this tapas bar, which serves a solid list of pinchos (two-bite tapas usually on toasted bread) and mains. Don't miss the gildas (skewered olive, anchovy, and spicy pepper), which sit in a monstrous bowl on the bar, along with local river trout and grilled meats. 

    Pl. Mayor, 22330, Spain
    974-500385

    Known For

    • Idyllic patio
    • Grilled local beef cuts
    • Stellar gildas

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closes Tues. and Wed.
  • 19. La Cocina

    $$

    This restaurant has a classy 1970s charm made modern with colorful tiled floors and funky wall art that's surprising for a small town. Start with the olla jacetana, their take on the local stew made with regional white beans, frizzled cabbage, and a fall-apart spiced pork rib. Then try out other seasonal specialties like the savory puff pastry with Swiss chard or the beef tongue salad.

    Calle Zocotín 11, 22700, Spain
    974-361221

    Known For

    • Seasonal game and seafood
    • Creative takes on Aragonés cuisine
    • Hyper-local sourcing

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sun., Closed Mon.
  • 20. La Formatgeria de Llívia

    $$$$

    This restaurant on the eastern edge of town is inside a former cheese factory, and the proprietors continue the tradition by producing fresh cheese on the premises while you watch. In the restaurant, fine local cuisine and fondues come with panoramic views looking south toward Puigmal and across the valley. There are tables in the bar for cheese-sampling sessions, an innovative tasting menu, and plenty of charm and good cheer.

    Pl. de Ro, Gorguja, 17527, Spain
    972-146279

    Known For

    • Fondues and raclettes
    • Homemade cheese
    • Open fire in winter

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon., No dinner, Tues., and Wed. (except Aug.)

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