Fodor's Expert Review Asador Bedua

This idyllic fourth-generation asador in a centuries-old house draws the crowds with its flawless tortilla de bacalao, txuleta de buey, and local game and fish of all kinds such as besugo a la donostiarra (roast sea bream with garlic-vinegar sauce) and, when in season, becada (Eurasian woodcock) cloaked in meaty wine sauce. Fizzy Txakolí is the standard tipple, but there's also a surprisingly deep list of Champagnes and international bottles to choose from.