Fodor's Expert Review Trattoria la Faggiola

It's only seconds away from the Leaning Tower, which probably explains the "No Pizza" sign written in big letters on the blackboard outside. Inside, another blackboard lists two or three primi and secondi: the problem is deciding, because everything's good, from the pasta pasticciata con speck e carciofi (oven-baked penne with cured ham and artichokes) to the finishing touch of castagnaccio con crema di ricotta (a chestnut flan topped with ricotta cream).