Fodor's Expert Review Umberto a Mare

This iconic eatery has occupied the space below the Santuario del Soccorso since 1936, when the original Umberto began to grill the local catch on the seafront. The setting is divine, with a terrace overlooking the Bay of Citara and the green tuff scogli innamorati (lovers' rocks). Grandson Umberto now presides over the kitchen, conjuring up gourmet dishes such as crudo di ricciola marinata (marinated raw Mediterranean amber jack) and paccheri dolcemare, a sweet pasta dish with squid, sultanas (golden raisins), pine nuts, and a touch of cinnamon. There are also 11 guest rooms, all with sea views.