Golfing in Ireland
The wonderfully alive, challenging natural terrain is one of the things that makes Irish golf so remarkable. In a country where mountains and sea so often meet, scraggly coastline and rolling hills of heather dominate the courses here, not the other way around. Real golfers are challenged, rather than deterred, by the vagaries of the elements.
Planning Ahead
The top links courses can book up in summer, so if you're after a prime-time slot you might want to book well in advance. At other times you shouldn't have too much problem with a late reservation; pretty much every course in the country now has its own online booking facility. Keep an eye out for the Irish Tourism Quality Assurance Shamrock when choosing a course. Ireland is such a small country that you can easily sample courses of very different topographies in one visit without feeling like you're rushing around. Pack for smart-casual dress and for staying dry. Soft spikes are advised, and don't forget to bring your handicap certificate where possible. A shirt and tie may be needed in a few of the posher club dining rooms.
Keeping the Cost Down
While golf in Ireland couldn't be called cheap, it's often a great value when contrasted with that other links haven, Scotland. There are great savings to be had if you're prepared to come off-season or if you avoid playing weekends on the expensive courses. Focusing on the lesser-known, but equally spectacular, links courses can also cut your costs dramatically. For example, Donegal is a county full of overlooked links golf. You can also save by booking in a group, or buying a golf pass for a number of courses.
The Weather Factor
You see all kinds of weather in Ireland—driving winds, rain, sleet, and sunshine—and you may see it all in one round. There are no rain checks here. You play unless there's lightning, so pack your sweaters, waterproof shoes, and rain gear, especially if you're planning your trip between fall and spring.
The Sunday Bag Factor
If you don't have a golf bag that's light enough for you to carry for 18 holes, invest in one before your trip. Electric carts are generally available only at the leading venues, so you usually have the option of using a caddy or caddy car (pull cart)—or of carrying your own bag. Many courses have caddies but don't guarantee their availability, because they're not employed by the course, so you may have to tote your bag yourself. Be prepared with a carryall or a Sunday bag.
The Northern Ireland Factor
Some of the best and most beautiful courses are in Northern Ireland, where the leading venues—like Royal County Down and Royal Portrush—are less remote than those in the republic. Remember that in this part of the island all currency is pounds sterling, although many clubs and businesses will accept the euro. There are no restrictions when traveling from one part of the country to the other.
The Private Club Factor
Unlike those in America, most private golf clubs in Ireland are happy to let visitors play their courses and use their facilities. It's important to remember, however, that such clubs place members first; guests come second. In some, you'll need a letter of introduction from your club in America to secure your playing privilege. There are often preferred days for visitors; call in advance to be sure that a club can make time for you.
The Perfect Links
Ballybunion Golf Club, Co. Kerry. On the Old Course, one of the country's classics, each and every hole is a pleasure to play. Set on the shore of the Atlantic at the southern entrance to the River Shannon, Ballybunion is famed for tough but pleasant golf, epitomized by the huge dunes—great for a stroll but hellish to play out of.
Ballyliffin Golf Club, Co. Donegal. Designed around imposing dunes and often described as "the Ballybunion of the North," the Glashedy Links at the world-famous Ballyliffin Golf Club has earned notoriety for its devilish bunkers. Running high above both the sea and the club's Old Links, the views from Ballyliffin's Glashedy Links are spectacular, especially from the par-3 7th tee. Designed by Ireland's own Pat Ruddy, Glashedy Links is one of the finest courses in all of Ireland.
Donegal Golf Club, Co. Donegal. This wild and wonderful course sits between the shores of beautiful Donegal Bay and the shadow of the majestic Blue Stack Mountains. From the 5th to the 9th you enter the "Valley of Tears," a fearsome challenge of four perilous holes made all the more challenging by feisty winds.
The K Club, Co. Kildare. You'd have to be a nongolfer and a hermit not to have heard of this course, one of the country's most prestigious and demanding. Arnold Palmer designed the main course, famed for its water obstacles and inland-links feel. The on-site facilities are the best in Ireland.
Lahinch, Co. Clare. Lahinch's old golf course constantly ranks in the world's top 100 because of its spectacular setting and its master architects over the last 126 years, Old Tom Morris and Alister MacKenzie. Goats have full right of access.
Old Head, Co. Cork. Set on a spectacular peninsula jutting out into the wild Atlantic below, the Old Head is the romantic favorite of Irish golf lovers. Often compared to the Pacific sections of Pebble Beach, expect your pulse to race at the stunning views and wildlife.
Portmarnock Golf Club, Co. Dublin. One of the nation's "Big Four" golf clubs (along with Ballybunion, Royal County Down, and Royal Portrush), Portmarnock is a links course near Dublin. Located on a sandy peninsula, it has hosted regular Irish Opens with its 100-plus bunkers ready to trap amateur and pro alike.
Royal County Down, Co. Down. A lunar landscape makes this course as beautiful as it is difficult. It has recently ousted St. Andrews as Golf Digest's best course outside the United States. The sea of craterlike bunkers and the long rough reward the straight and punish the proud.
Royal Portrush, Co. Antrim. This grand old course has made it into Golf Digest's top-10 courses outside the United States. It's a sea of sand hills and curving fairways, with the White Rocks par-5 5th set on the edge of a cliff. Word has it (okay, Royal Portrush recommends) that a long carry over the mounds to the right of the white stone will be rewarded with a much shorter approach to the green.
