Fodor's Expert Review Sphinx

When Fira locals want more than a taverna, they come to this pretty vaulted room in a neoclassic mansion, which glows with spotlighted Cycladic sculptures and peach walls. As lush as this is, however, few can resist an outdoor terrace table, thanks to the striking caldera views in one direction and a vista of the giant cathedral in the other. Owner George Psichas is his own chef, and every dish is evidence of his loving care—even the bread and pasta are homemade. Starters include three fish carpaccio with olive oil, lemon, and arugula, or the eggplant with Santorini tomato sauce and mozzarella. George leans Italian, as the risotto with Santorini tomatoes, zucchini, and marscapone reveals. Fresh fish is usually available—try the fresh grouper steak with shellfish and white wine sauce. The fillet steak with foie gras, wild mushrooms, and vin santo sauce is superb. Desserts change day by day, but rich chocolate soufflé is always available. The wine list is long and Greek (and the "cave" is very much worth a look).