Cruising in Greece
Travelers have been sailing Greek waters at least since 3500 BC, when according to some historians, Odysseus, the world’s first tourist and hero of Homer’s Odyssey, was journeying around the Greek islands—1,425 geological jewels thickly scattered over the Aegean Sea like stepping-stones between East and West. Today's pleasure cruisers have an easier time of it.
Itineraries
Most itineraries that focus on Greece last 7 to 10 days. They may be round-trip cruises that begin and end in Piraeus, or they may begin in Venice (usually ending in Piraeus) or Piraeus (usually ending in Istanbul). Some cruises concentrate on covering an area that includes the Greek islands, Turkish coast, Cyprus, Israel, and Egypt, while others reach from Gibraltar to the Ionian isles, the western Peloponnese, and Athens.
For an overview of Greece’s top sights, choose an itinerary that includes port calls in Piraeus for a shore excursion to the Acropolis and other sights in Athens; Mykonos, a sparkling Cycladic isle with a warren of whitewashed passages, followed by neighboring Delos, with its Pompeii-like ruins; Santorini, a stunning harbor that’s actually a partially submerged volcano; Rhodes, where the Knights of St. John built their first walled city before being forced to retreat to Malta; and Heraklion, Crete, where you’ll be whisked through a medieval harbor to the reconstructed Bronze Age palace at Knossos. Port calls at Katakolon and Itea mean excursions to Olympia and the Temple of Apollo at Delphi. Some cruises call at Epidavros and Nafplion, offering an opportunity for visits to the ancient theater and the citadel of Mycenae, or at Byzantine Monemvasia or Patmos, the island where St. John wrote the Book of Revelation.
Some lines allow you to spend extra time (even stay overnight) in Mykonos to experience the party scene, or Santorini, so that you can see the island after the crush of cruise-ship tourists leaves for the day.
When to Go
When to go is as important as where to go. The Greek cruising season is lengthy, starting in March and ending in November. In July or August, some islands, especially Santorini and Mykonos, are jammed with Greek and foreign vacationers. High temperatures might also limit time spent on deck. May, June, September, and October are the best months—warm enough for sunbathing and swimming, yet not so uncomfortably hot as to make you regret the trek up Lindos. Cruising in the low seasons provides plenty of advantages besides discounted fares. Availability of ships and particular cabins is greater in the low and shoulder seasons, and the ports are almost completely free of tourists.
Major Ports
The cruise ports of Greece vary in size and popularity, and some require passengers on larger ships to take a smaller tender to go ashore. In some ports, the main sights may be an hour or more away by car or bus, so plan your day appropriately. At virtually every port listed, a beach stop can be found nearby if you prefer to relax by the sea instead of exploring a village or archaeological site.
Ayios Nikolaos, Crete. This animated port town is built around the “bottomless” Lake Voulismeni (shallower than romantic myths suggest) and hilly streets lined with Venetian and Byzantine houses offer fantastic views over Mirabello Bay and a backdrop of bare mountains. Some pleasant strips of sand fringe bays right in town, while the beaches of the Elounda peninsula are a cab or bus ride away.
Chania, Crete. This elegant city of eucalyptus-lined avenues has miles of waterfront promenades and shady, cobbled alleyways lined with Venetian and Ottoman houses. A lighthouse guides the way into the Venetian outer and inner harbors, where the waterfront Firka Fortress was once a Turkish prison and is now a maritime museum and a converted Turkish mosque hosts art exhibitions. A short walk west of the harbor takes you to Chania’s main beach, while others are east of town on the Agia Triada peninsula, where several beautiful monasteries are surrounded by miles of olive groves. Buses and tours depart for the Samaria Gorge, a deep cleft through Crete’s soaring mountains.
Corfu. Strolling along the narrow, winding streets and up and down steep stairways is a magical experience, taking you through the medieval Campiello, where seven- and eight-story Venetian houses block the sun, and into what might be the most beautiful square in Greece, the arcade- and cafe-lined Esplanade. The sea laps against the thick walls of the New Fortress, built by the Venetians, and the Old Fortress, a town in itself that once housed the entire population. Churches—St. George, St. Spyridon Cathedral, and Antivouniotissa church among them—are filled with treasures that provided Corfiots with comfort through many centuries of occupation. Close to town is the royal palace of Mon Repos, with splendid gardens.
Delos. During a stop in Mykonos, a short boat ride takes you to this tiny uninhabited island, a well-preserved archaeological site that was a holy sanctuary for a thousand years, the fabled birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. Luxurious villas, including the House of Cleopatra and the House of Dionysus, show off 2,500-year-old mosaic floors and remnants of magnificent marble sculptures. The splendidly monumental Sacred Way leads to the Temple of Apollo, and the marbled and imposing Avenue of Lions is flanked by reproductions of the namesake guardians. Smaller cruise ships can anchor nearby and tender their passengers ashore.
Gythion. A position at the top of the Mani peninsula in the Peloponnese makes this small port a good jumping off point for touring. Sights amid the intriguingly barren landscapes of the Mani include the Diros caves, accessible by underground boat tours and 37 km (22 miles) southwest of Gythion. The Byzantine towns of Mystras and Monemvasia are within easy reach, too, as is Sparta, no longer the formidable stronghold it once was. It's a pleasure to wander along the harbor in Gythion, where octopi dry in the sun and café tables face a fleet of fishing boats. Sandy beaches flank the town.
Heraklion, Crete. The outlying Palace of Knossos, residence of the Minoan kings, is the big draw, and a mandatory follow-up is a visit to the outstanding Archaeological Museum on Platia Elefthrias, where artifacts from Minoan culture discovered during the Knossos excavations include exqusite frescoes and jewelry. The hectic city is more appealing than it might at first appear, with Venetian and Ottoman landmarks, leafy promenades and shady squares filled with outdoor cafés, and the waterfront Koules, a massive fortress.
Katakolon. The so-called “door to Olympia” is just below the ancient city known for sanctuaries to the gods and as the birthplace of the ancient Olympic Games. A 20,000-spectator stadium and other venues remain, and the archaeological museum is a treasure trove of classical statues. Katakolon is a nice place for a leisurely Greek lunch and nearby beaches stretch along the Olympic Riviera.
Kos. Ships dock in Kos Town, putting you within walking distance of the impressive 15th-century Castle of the Knights and other sights in the birthplace of Hippocrates, father of modern medicine. Roman houses, the Greek agora (marketplace), and other ancient ruins are scattered around the pleasant town and shaded by palms and plane trees. The Asklepieion, the ruins of an ancient Greek hospital, are just outside of town, as are many fine beaches.
Monemvasia. Cruise ships tender you close to this medieval Byzantine town, a natural fortress that's been carved out of the rock and has been inhabited since AD 583. Once inside the single gate the only way to get around is on two feet or the back of a donkey. Narrow streets of rough stone (this is not a place for visitors with mobility issues) open to enchanting squares and sea vistas, and the higher you climb, past Ayia Sofia and other wonderful old churches, the better the views.
Mykonos. Cruise ships drop anchor at Tourlos, from where a small boat shuttles you to Mykonos Town, or at a modern cruise port from where connections are by bus. Famous, infamous even, as the haunt of jet-setters and partiers, this well-preserved whitewashed maze is intrguing and it's a pleasure to wander through waterfront Little Venice and along quiet back lanes. At night Mykonos ramps up to full volume in many bars and beach clubs, but amid it all is Panagia Paraportiani, an extremely photogenic church.
Mytilini, Lesvos. Greece’s third-largest island is famous as the birthplace of the ancient Greek poet Sappho and renowned for the natural beauty of its lush forests, mountains, deep bays, hot springs, sweeping coastlines, and seemingly endless groves of olive trees. From these landscapes come fine olive oil and ouzo, available from the many shops and eateries on the bustling streets of Mytilini, where ships dock beneath the vast Fortress of Mytilini. The most charming of many museums is one dedicated to Theophilos, a local artist whose primitve works capture the details of everyday life in the late-19th and early-20th centuries.
Nafplion. Ships sail past the picturesque Bourtzi islet, where a tower fortress seems to stand in the center of the sea, and it soon becomes apparent how attractive the first capital of Greece is. The old town of neoclassical houses is wedged onto a peninsula in the Gulf of Argos, with the Palamidi Fortress commanding the inland heights. Narrow streets open into shaded squares, long promenades skirt the seafront, and nearby are Mycenae, Ancient Nemea, Ancient Corinth, and other monumental sights.
Patmos. Smaller ships only can dock on the pretty, mountainous island where St. John the Divine was once exiled and wrote his Book of Revelation and where many Europeans spend summer months enjoying laidback island life. St. John lived for two years in what has come to be known as the Sacred Grotto, just below the walls of the fortified medieval complex of the Monastery of St. John the Theologian, in hilltop Chora. These religious associations attract many pilgrims to the island, along with others who enjoy an abundance of charm and some excellent beaches.
Piraeus. The port of Piraeus is located 11 km (7 miles) southwest of Central Athens, easy to reach by metro, bus, or taxi. And oh, Athens—exhilarating and exhausting, beautiful and grity, and endlessly fascinating. Rising above the fray is the Acropolis, the greatest monument of the anicent world and visible from just about anywhere you wander in the capital. Once you descend from the temples you needn't walk far to take in more ancient sights: on the slopes you’ll see the Odeon of Herodes Atticus and the Acropolis Museum, with its impressively displayed panels from the Parthenon Frieze, and within easy reach are the Agora and the National Archaeological Museum, filled with treasures from tombs and temples throughout Greece. Then there's the rest: the jam-packed alleyways of the Plaka, the bazaars of Monastiraki, stately Syntagma Square, with the parliament and Changing of the Evzone Guards, the Benaki and other fine museums, and, proof that this ancient city is always on the move, Psyri and other once-derelict neighborhoods that are vital once again.
Rhodes. Ships dock at the cruise port east of St. Catherine’s Gate, not far from where the Knights of St. John stepped ashore in 1291 after fleeing Palestine—over the next two centuries they bestowed enormous wealth on their island stronghold. Their 4-km (2½-mile) fortress walls and magnificent palaces still stand, alongside the monuments of later conquerors. The minaret of the Mosque of Süleyman, dedicated to a Turkish sultan, rises high above the old city, and a palm-shaded avenue of arcaded, early-20th-century Italian landmarks follows the harbor. Then there are ancient wonders, too. Most impressive of them is in medieval Lindos, 48 km (30 mile) south, where a glorious hilltop acropolis rises above the whitewashed town.
Santorini. One of the most photographed scenes in the world greets you upon docking beneath the cliffs of Fira, where cubic, whitewashed houses seem about to tumble right into the blue sea. The scene stealer is the volcanic caldera rimmed with white villages that look like snow from a distance, but the island has a lot else to show off, too. The top three of many memorbale sights: Akrotiri, a remarkably well-preserved town destroyed by a volcanic eruption some 3,500 years ago; Ancient Thira, a magnificently perched ancient city; and the black sand beaches at Kamari and Perissa. Yes, and Ia, another stunning white village tottering on the edge of the caldera.
