Fodor's Expert Review Fogón St-Julien

The most ambitious Spanish restaurant in Paris, this spot occupies an airy Seine-side space, avoiding tapas-bar clichés. The seasonal all-tapas menu, at €51 per person, is the most creative choice, but that would mean missing out on the seven different takes on paella that are available daily: perhaps saffron with seafood (which could be a bit more generous), inky squid, vegetable, or Valencia-style with rabbit, chicken, and vegetables. Finish up with custardy crème Catalan and a glass of Muscatel.