Side Trips from Copenhagen
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1. Dyrehaven
Herds of deer roam freely in the verdant, 2,500-acre Dyrehaven. Once the favored hunting grounds of Danish royals, today the park has become a cherished weekend oasis for Copenhageners. Hiking and biking trails traverse the park, and lush fields beckon nature-seekers and families with picnic baskets. The deer are everywhere; in the less-trafficked regions of the park you may find yourself surrounded by an entire herd of deer delicately stepping through the fields. The park's centerpiece is the copper-top, 17th-century Eremitagen, formerly a royal hunting lodge. It is closed to the public but is sometimes rented for private events. Dyrehaven is a retreat for hikers and bikers, but you can also go in for the royal treatment and enjoy it from the high seat of a horse-drawn carriage. The carriages gather at the park entrance near the station.
Klampenborg, Capital Region, 2930, DenmarkSight Details
Rate Includes: Free -
2. Ordrupgaard
Temporarily closed for renovation until late 2020, Ordrupgaard is one of the largest museum collections of French impressionism in Europe outside France itself. Most of the great 19th-century French artists are represented, including Manet, Monet, Matisse, Cézanne, Renoir, Degas, Gauguin, Sisley, Delacroix, and Pissarro. Ordrupgaard also has a superb collection of Danish Golden Age painters and spectacular works by Vilhelm Hammershøi, whose deft use of light and space creates haunting settings for his mostly solitary figures. The paintings hang on the walls of what was once the home of museum founder and art collector Wilhelm Hansen. The interior of this manor, dating from 1918, has been left just as it was when Hansen and his wife Henny lived here. In 2005 a black, curvaceous addition, designed by the acclaimed Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid, joined the main building. In addition to extra exhibition space, the new structure made room for a spacious café that overlooks the park. There are labels in English.
Vilvordevej 110, Charlottenlund, Capital Region, 2920, Denmark39-64–11–83Sight Details
Rate Includes: DKr 85, Tues., Thurs., and Fri. 1–5, Wed. 1–7, weekends 11–5, Closed Mon. -
3. Bakken
Amusement Park/Water ParkLocated within the peaceful Dyrehaven, Bakken is the world's oldest amusement park (since 1583!) and one of Denmark's most popular attractions. Here a mostly working-class crowd lunches on hot dogs and cotton candy. Tivoli, with its trimmed hedges, dazzling firework displays, and evening concerts, is still Copenhagen's reigning queen, but unpretentious Bakken is unabashedly about having a good time. Bakken has more than 30 rides, from quaint, rickety roller coasters (free of Disney gloss) to newer, faster rides to little-kid favorites such as Kaffekoppen, the Danish version of twirling teacups, where you sit in traditional Royal Copenhagen–style blue-and-white coffee cups.
Dyrehavevej 62, Klampenborg, Capital Region, 2930, Denmark39-63–35–44Sight Details
Rate Includes: Entry: Free. Rides pass: DKr 249 (full day in peak season), Mid-Mar.–Sept. Opening hrs vary from noon to 10 or midnight and from 2 to 10, 11, or midnight; call for details. -
4. Bellevue Strand
The residents of Klampenborg are lucky enough to have this pleasant beach nearby. In summer this luck may seem double-edged, when scores of city-weary sunseekers pile out at the Klampenborg S-train station and head for the sand. The Danes have a perfect word for this: they call Bellevue a fluepapir (flypaper) beach. Bellevue is still an appealing seaside spot to soak up some rays. Amenities: lifeguards, showers, toilets. Best for: partiers, swimming.
Strandvejen 340, Klampenborg, Capital Region, 2930, Denmark -
5. Café Jorden Rundt
Strandvejen, the coastal road that showcases private mansions like beads on a string, is the location of this café, whose name means "around the world"; it features striking views of Øresund, the sound between Denmark and Sweden. The menu includes sizable sandwiches, soups, salads, and cakes.
Strandvejen 152, Charlottenlund, Capital Region, 2920, Denmark39-63–73–81Sight Details
Rate Includes: Weekdays 10–9, weekends 10–8 -
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6. Experimentarium
Museum/GalleryAt a former bottling plant, in the beachside town of Hellerup, more than 300 exhibitions are clustered in various "Discovery Islands," each exploring a different facet of science, technology, and natural phenomena. A dozen hands-on exhibits allow you to do things like blow giant soap bubbles, feel an earthquake, stir up magnetic goop, play ball on a jet stream, and gyrate to gyroscopes. The center also organizes interactive temporary exhibitions. Exhibit texts are in English. From downtown Copenhagen, take Bus 14 (from Rådhuspladsen) or 1A (from Kongens Nytorv or the Central Station). Alternatively, take the S-train to Svanemøllen Station, then walk north for 10 minutes.
View Tours and ActivitiesTuborg Havnevej 7, Hellerup, Capital Region, 2900, Denmark39-27–33–33Sight Details
Rate Includes: DKr 165, Mon. and Wed.–Fri. 9:30–5, Tues. 9:30–9, weekends 11–5 -
7. Frilandsmuseet
North of Copenhagen is Lyngby, whose main draw is this open-air museum. About 50 Danish farmhouses and cottages from the period 1650–1950 have been painstakingly dismantled, moved here, reconstructed, and filled with period furniture and tools. Trees, farm animals, and gardens surround the museum; bring lunch and plan to spend the day. For children, the farm animals and history-theme pantomime performances are the biggest draw.
Kongevejen 100, Lyngby, Capital Region, 2800, Denmark33-47–34-81Sight Details
Rate Includes: Free, Late-Apr.–late Oct., Tues.–Sun. 10–5, Closed mid-Dec.–mid-Apr., weekdays in early Dec., and Mon. -
8. Museum for Moderne Kunst
Museum/GalleryArchitect Søren Robert Lund was just 25 and still a student when he was awarded the commission for the Museum for Moderne Kunst, which is set against the flat coast southwest of Copenhagen. Arken, or "the ark," which opened in 1996, is a building with a ship's features; sail-like protrusions and narrow red corridors that evoke a submarine. The museum's massive sculpture room exhibits both modern Danish and international art. The hall is narrow in one end and wider in the other to provoke illusions of space and proximity, depending on where you stand. The café, which looks like a ship's bridge, offers nice views of Køge Bugt. S-trains C and E leave from all major Copenhagen train stations. From Copenhagen, you cross five zones. From there, take Bus 128, which lets you off in front of the museum.
Skovvej 100, Ishøj, Capital Region, 2635, Denmark43-54–02–22Sight Details
Rate Includes: DKr 95, Tues.–Sun. 10–5, Wed. 10–9
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