33 Best Sights in Carinthia and Graz, Austria

The dramatic castle of Hochosterwitz crowns the top of a steep, isolated outcropping, looking as if it has just emerged from the pages of a fairy tale. It was in this castle that the forces of "Pocket-Mouthed Meg" (Margarethe Maultasch) were tricked by two slaughtered oxen dropped onto the heads of its soldiers. Those inside the fortress were starving, but the strategy succeeded, and, dispirited by such apparent proof of abundant supplies, the Tyrolese abandoned the siege. The most recent fortifications were added in the late 1500s against invading Turks; each of the 14 towered gates is a small fortress unto itself. Inside, there's an impressive collection of armor and weaponry plus a café-restaurant in the inner courtyard. There's a glass elevator (accommodating wheelchairs) from a point near the parking-lot ticket office. The hike up the rather steep path to Hochosterwitz adds to the drama. Your reward at the summit is spectacular vistas from every vantage point. There's a restaurant in the castle and a food stand in the upper parking park. Get to the castle on the back road from Treibach or via Route 83/E7.

The view from the summit of Graz's midtown mountain takes in the city and much of central Styria. A zigzagging stone staircase, beginning at Schlossbergplatz, leads to the top. It's 260 steps, so you may prefer to use the Schlossbergbahn funicular railway (Kaiser-Franz-Josef-Kai 38; €2.50) or an elevator carved through the rock face (Schlossbergplatz; €1.80). The Schlossberg, a Romanesque castle with Gothic elements turned Renaissance fortress, constitutes only a portion of this site, and is one of the few places not conquered by Napoléon. A few steps east of the funicular station at the top is the Glockenturm (bell tower), an octagonal structure from 1588 containing Styria's largest bell, the 4-ton Liesl, in the upper belfry. Its 101 chimes resound three times daily, at 7 am, noon, and 7 pm. The Open-Air Theater, to the north, is built into the old casements of the castle and has a retractable roof. Both opera and theater performances are presented here in summer. There are ruins of the older structure, and many a modern café here, too.

This 17th-century palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site on the eastern edge of the city and the largest Baroque palace in Styria, is surrounded by a large park full of peacocks. Enjoy a guided tour of the Prunkräume (state rooms); they are noted for their elaborate stucco decorations and frescoes, and contain one of the few depictions of Osaka before 1615. There's also an arcaded courtyard lined with antlers.

The many attractions here include a traditional art gallery, a collection of coins, and an archaeology museum. The Alte Galerie (old gallery) contains a world-famous collection of art from the Middle Ages through the Baroque period. Among its treasures are works by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, Hans and Lucas Cranach, the Admont Madonna wood carving from 1400, and a medieval altarpiece depicting the murder of Thomas à Becket. At the Archaeology Museum, the holdings include a remarkable collection of Styrian archaeological finds, including the small and rather strange Strettweg ritual chariot from the 7th century BC. Stop by the outdoor café for a break, or wander through the park to relax in between visits to the many sights.

The old town square of Klagenfurt, or Alter Platz, is still the center of the city. Brightly colored buildings dating from the 12th century frame this pedestrian meeting area. A Trinity Column representing God, Jesus Christ, and the Holy Spirit, dating from 1680, now stands in the Alter Platz. These columns were built all over Europe as a thanks to God from the people for having survived the plague that killed nearly 25 million Europeans during the Middle Ages. The brightly colored yellow building is the old town hall.

Blanketing more than 100 acres of hilly woodland, the Austrian Open-Air Museum is worth a visit. A fascinating collection of about 80 authentic farmhouses, barns, Alpine huts, working water mills, forges, and other rural structures dating from the 16th century through the early 20th century has been moved to this site from seemingly every province of Austria. Buildings that otherwise would have been lost in the rush to "progress" have been preserved complete with their original furnishings. Most are open to visitors, and in several of them artisans can be seen at work, sometimes in period costume. It is also possible to have a guided tour in English. There is a restaurant serving regional specialties and a café by the entrance. You can reach the Austrian Open-Air Museum by car from Graz via Route 67 to Gratkorn, by train (25 minutes, with a change) to Stübing and a 2-km (1½-mile) walk from there, or by municipal bus (35 minutes) from the train station directly to Freilichtmuseum Stübing.

The scanty remains of this former imperial palace now house government offices. Most of this uninspired structure is from the 19th and 20th centuries, but two noteworthy vestiges of the original 15th-century stronghold remain: the Burgtor (palace gate), which opens into the sprawling Stadtpark (municipal park), and the unusual 49-step, 26-foot carved stone double-spiral Gothic staircase from 1494 to 1500, in the hexagonal tower at the far end of the first courtyard. While meandering around take note of the Spor, a statue of a seed, which represents the center of Graz.

Bärnbach offers the amazing vision of the Church of St. Barbara; it was completely redone in 1988 by the late Austrian painter and architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser. The exterior is a fantasy of symbols in brilliant colors and shapes, including 12 towers representing all of the world's religions. A tour is available and must be booked in advance at the rectory; it costs €3 and lasts an hour.

Gurk's claim to fame is its massive Romanesque Dom topped by two onion cupolas and considered the most famous religious landmark in Carinthia. It was founded in the 11th century by Hemma, Countess of Zeltschach, who after losing her two sons and husband decided to turn to religious works. She tied two oxen to a cart and let them walk until they stopped on their own. At that spot, she founded a cloister and gave all her belongings to the church to build a cathedral. Construction on the cathedral began in 1140 and ended in 1200, though Hemma wasn't canonized until 1938. Her tomb is in the crypt, whose ceiling, and hence the cathedral itself, is supported by 100 marble pillars. The Hemma-Stein, a small, green-slate chair from which she personally supervised construction, is also here, and alleged to bring fertility to barren women. In the church itself, the high altar is one of the most important examples of the early Baroque in Austria. Note the Pietà by George Rafael Donner, who is sometimes called the Austrian Michelangelo. Be sure to visit the bishop's chapel, which features rare late-Romanesque and Gothic frescoes. At the end of August and in early September, a concert series is held in the cathedral. Tours may be restricted by church services, but run daily at 11 and 2:30. Advanced reservations are required.

The Dominican Monastery of St. Nikolaus von Myra is named after St. Nikolaus, the man who eventually became pop culture's Saint Nick and Santa Claus. The monastery is near the town's moat, and was rebuilt in 1673, though the church nearby dates from 1217. Take a moment to notice the stone statue of the Virgin Mary inside the monastery, and the massive crucifix.

South of Neuer Platz (take Karfreitstrasse) is the Domkirche, completed as a Protestant church in 1581, given over to the Jesuits and reconsecrated in 1604, and finally declared a cathedral in 1787. The 18th-century side-altar painting of St. Ignatius by Paul Troger, the great Viennese Rococo painter and teacher, is a fine example of the qualities of transparency and light he introduced to painting.

On the cathedral's south exterior wall is a badly damaged 15th-century fresco called the Gottesplagenbild, which graphically depicts contemporary local torments: the plague, locusts, and the Turks. Step inside to see the outstanding high altar made of colored marble, the choir stalls, and Konrad Laib's Crucifixion from 1457 (considered one of the top late-Gothic panel paintings of German-speaking Europe). The 15th-century reliquaries on either side of the triumphal arch leading to the choir were originally the bridal chests of Paola Gonzaga, daughter of Ludovico II of Mantua. The Baroque Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II, who died in 1637, adjoins the cathedral. Its sumptuous interior is partly a design by native son Fischer von Erlach, and his only work to be seen in Graz. Call ahead to make an appointment to visit the Friedrichskapelle and Konrad Laib.

Every day at 11 am and 3 and 6 pm two mullioned windows open in the mechanical clock high above the square, revealing a life-size wooden couple, the man adorned in lederhosen, a tankard of beer in his upraised fist, accompanied by a dirndl-clad Austrian maiden. An old folk tune plays and they dance on the window ledges before returning to their hidden perch. The musical box was erected in 1905 by the owner of the house. Look into the courtyard at No. 5, which has an impressive 17th-century open staircase. The house at No. 7 has an arcaded Renaissance courtyard. Have a typical Austrian meal right next door at Glöckl Bräu, where they brew their own beer. Every time a new barrel is opened, the bells above ring.

It's easy to find the Hauptplatz (main square), with its old town hall and gleaming, multicolor, pastel facades. As you stroll you'll discover aspects of the medieval-era town: beautiful stone houses, the double wall, and the towers, gates, and water-filled moat.

This triangular area was converted from a swampy pastureland to a town square by traveling merchants in 1164; today it's the central meeting spot of Graz. In its center stands the Erzherzog Johann Brunnen (Archduke Johann Fountain), dedicated to the popular 19th-century patron whose enlightened policies did much to develop Graz as a cultural and scientific center. The four female figures represent what were Styria's four main rivers; today only the Mur and the Enns are still within the province. The Luegg House, at the corner of Sporgasse, is noted for its Baroque stucco facade. On the west side of the square are Gothic and Renaissance houses. The spectacular, late-19th-century Rathaus (City Hall) totally dominates the south side. From the Neue-Welt-Gasse and Schmiedgasse you get a superb view of the Hauptplatz.

With water temperatures averaging 28°C (82°F) from spring to fall, this lake is a popular spot for sunbathing. Surrounded by gentle mountains, it's a little over 1½ km long (1 mile long) and 1 km wide (½ mile wide), and motorboats are not allowed. To reach the Klopeinersee, take the west Völkermarkt/Tainach exit from the A2 autobahn and follow signs to the lake. It's about a 30-minute drive east of Klagenfurt. For information on lakeside hotels and pensions, as well as hiking and biking in the region, contact Klopeinersee Tourismus.

Across the River Mur from the Altstadt is the modern-art museum nicknamed the "Friendly Alien"—and indeed, it does look like an alien ship landed smack in the middle of the town's medieval orange-tile, gabled roofs. Designed by London-based architects Peter Cook and Colin Fournier, with the aim of forging an interaction between the traditional landmarks of Graz and the avant-garde, it resembles a gigantic, blue, beached whale with spiky tentacles—which light up at night. Inside, the vast exhibition rooms are linked by escalators and spiraling walkways, with an open arena at the top offering spectacular views. There is no permanent collection here, only temporary exhibits of renowned modern artists. Check out the gift shop on the ground floor.

The oldest public museum in Austria is a vast complex located between Neutorgasse, Kalchberggasse, and Raubergasse. The Joanneum Quarter holds the natural history collections, the Neue Galerie Graz, and the Bruseum, dedicated to Styrian artist Günter Brus. The Natural History Museum showcases exhibitions from all of Joanneum Universal Museum’s natural sciences departments, including botany, geology, paleontology, mineralogy, and zoology. The Neue Galerie’s permanent collection features art from the 19th and 20th centuries.

With 32,000 items on display, the Styrian Armory is the largest preserved arsenal in the world, and one of the biggest attractions in Graz. Built between 1642 and 1644 on behalf of the Styrian nobility, the four-story armory still contains the 16th- and 17th-century weapons intended for use by Styrian mercenaries in fighting off the Turks. Empress Maria Theresa closed the armory in 1749, due to extended periods of peace; however, it remained intact to illustrate the history of the area. The collection includes more than 3,000 suits of armor (some of which are beautifully engraved), thousands of halberds, swords, firearms, cannons, and mortars—some hanging off the ceiling, others projecting off the walls, and still more sitting on the floor. The sheer quantity of displays can be daunting, so thankfully the most unusual items are highlighted, sometimes in striking displays.

One of the most notable sights of the city is the Landhaus, with its towers and court with arcaded stairways. It was completed in 1590, and at the time formed a corner of the city wall. The only interior on view is the dramatic Grosser Wappensaal (Great Hall of Heraldry), which contains 665 coats of arms of Carinthia's landed gentry. On the ceiling is a stirring rendition of the Fürstenstein investiture ceremony portrayed by Fromiller, the most important Carinthian painter of the Baroque period. The Gasthaus im Landhaushof, on the ground floor, is well worth a stop for lunch.

The main wing of the Styrian provincial parliament house was built starting in 1557 by Italian Domenico dell'Allio in the Renaissance Lombard style. Through an archway off Herrengasse, visitors can glimpse a magnificently proportioned three-floor courtyard, surrounding a bronze fountain and copper gargoyles dating from the 16th century. The striking Styrian coat of arms, which depicts a white panther on a green background, is painted as a mural on a nearby wall. In the summer you may discover a small market with sausages, beer, and live music; at Advent, it hosts a Nativity scene made of ice.

From Klagenfurt, bypass the autobahn and instead take Villacher Strasse (Route 83) to the Wörther Lake, Austria's great summer resort area. You'll pass by the entrancing Minimundus, literally "miniature world," with around 150 1:25 scale models. Structures include copies of the White House, the Taj Mahal, the Eiffel Tower, and the Gur-Emir Mausoleum from Uzbekistan, all built when possible from the original materials. Net proceeds support needy children and families in Carinthia.

This museum displays works by modern and contemporary artists. It pays special attention to avant-garde artists with roots in Carinthia. Maria Lassnig, Arnulf Rainer, and Bruno Gironcoli, some of the heavyweights of post–World War II art, hail from the region. The museum also fosters the young art scene by showing works by emerging artists such as Hans Schabus and Heimo Zobernig.

This 17th-century former city residence of the ruling princes houses the Cultural History Collection. In addition to a Baroque interior, the permanent collection of 35,000 items features items related to the political history of Graz and Styria. Palais Herberstein has a special focus on the "status symbols" that defined the time; and as visitors walk down a red carpet they question the equivalent in the world today.

This was the birthplace in 1863 of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, heir to the throne of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. His assassination at Sarajevo in 1914 led directly to the outbreak of World War I. The palace is now home to the Graz Museum, whose exhibits trace the history of Graz and includes an old-time pharmacy.

On the shore of the Wörthersee, a winding 5-km (3-mile) road ascends to the 2,790-foot observation tower, the Pyramidenkogel; take its elevator (or the climb 441 steps) up to its three platforms and you can see out over half of Carinthia. The quickest way down is via the slide (separate ticket required) which promises to have you at ground level within 18 seconds.

Adjacent to Minimundus is the Reptilien Zoo, featuring crocodiles, cobras, rattlesnakes, and several kinds of hairy spiders, as well as colorful fish from the nearby Wörther Lake.

In the house where Robert Musil—author of the celebrated novel The Man Without Qualities—was born in 1880, the Robert Musil Museum displays documents and photographs belonging to him, as well as first editions of his work. Additional permanent exhibition space is given to lyricist Christine Lavant and author Ingeborg Bachmann. Musil's writing focused on the cultural disintegration and spiritual crisis of his day. He fled Nazi-occupied Austria in 1938 and died penniless in Switzerland in 1942. Note the portraits of all three of the museum's subjects, spray painted by French street artist Jef Aérosol, that decorate the building's exterior.

From a footpath at the upper end of the Hauptplatz, behind the Raiffeisenbank, take a steep 20-minute climb up 323 steps to the impressive remains of Schloss Petersberg. (An easier path to see the 12th- and 13th-century castle can be found next to Villa Bucher.) The Stadtmuseum (city museum) displays the history of the oldest city in Carinthia. Additionally, make a stop at the Petersbergkirche, a Romanesque church first built in 1130.

North of Neuer Platz (go along Kramergasse for two blocks, then angle left to the Pfarrplatz) is the parish church of St. Egyd, with its eye-catching totem-pole bronze carving by Austrian avant-garde artist Ernst Fuchs in the second chapel on the right. In the next chapel is the crypt of Julian Green (1900–1998), the noted French-born American novelist whose works include The Closed Garden and The Other One. He perceived the city as a sanctuary of peace in the world and decided he wanted to be buried here.