Upper South Island and the West Coast Restaurants

In Marlborough visit a winery restaurant—there's no better way to ensure that your meal suits what you're drinking. Cloudy Bay clams are harvested here, salmon and Greenshell mussels are farmed in the Marlborough Sounds, and local crops—besides grapes—include cherries and garlic. In Kaikoura try crayfish. The region is named after this delicacy (In M?ori, kai means "food" and koura means "lobster"). Nelson is also famous for seafood, in particular scallops, and for fresh produce and, yes, for wine. On the West Coast, try the local delicacy whitebait fritters—a sort of omelet filled with the whitebait—tiny, young eel-like fish netted at river mouths as they migrate upstream in late spring.

Some restaurants in more remote tourist regions close in winter (June through August); others may curtail their hours. In summer, all doors are open and it's best to make reservations. If a restaurant is open on a major holiday, it may add a surcharge to your bill.

Year-round, the restaurants and cafés around the glaciers and other remote spots can be quick to close their doors at night. Arrive by 8:30 (it's sometimes even earlier in winter) or you might go hungry. Some of the smallest towns, including Punakaiki, settlements in the Marlborough Sounds, and parts of Golden Bay, have few cafés and no general stores, so bring your own supplies.

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  • 1. Mussel Inn

    $$$

    Swing by the Mussel Inn for a quintessential slice of Golden Bay life: music, craft beer, and darn good pub food. Locals come for the live music (most evenings in summer), mussel chowder, steamed mussels, or goat curry, washed down with house-brewed beer and ciders. A favorite is the Captain Cooker—brewed first from native manuka leaves by Captain Cook to combat scurvy on his ships.  With rough sawn timber, handmade furniture, outdoor fire pit, and a big rambling garden, it’s very much a "Kiwi woolshed meets Aussie farmhouse" feel here. 

    1259 Tākaka-Collingwood Hwy., Onekaka, Tasman, 7182, New Zealand
    03-525–9241

    Known For

    • Craft beers and ciders
    • Rustic, country ambience
    • Live music

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Aug., Reservations not accepted
  • 2. Denniston Dog

    $$$

    This old bank building is loaded with local character in its current guise as a cheerful pub and gathering spot. If the coal-mining heritage of this town interests you, you will enjoy the memorabilia and photos on display. They serve good Kiwi food here, anything from breakfast and brunch to light meals to kids' meals to stone-grill steaks and seafood. The meals are hearty, and it's a very kid-friendly spot. There's a big covered courtyard for summer dining.

    18 Wakefield St., Westport, West Coast, 7825, New Zealand
    03-789–5030

    Known For

    • Traditional New Zealand food
    • Big breakfasts
    • Stone-grilled meats and seafood
  • 3. Jester House Cafe

    $$$

    The locally sourced, mainly organic food at this funky place includes a raft of home baking, chutneys and dressings, and hearty country fare like chowders and salads. There's cozy indoor seating, and tables dotted throughout the garden and veranda. For the kids there's a small playground, an enchanted forest, and some extremely tame eels that can be hand-fed (September–May). This eclectic establishment makes no apologies for being open only on Fridays 10 am–10 pm. Down in the back garden, the Boot B&B has comfy accommodations for couples.

    320 Aporo Rd., Tasman, 7173, New Zealand
    03-526–6742

    Known For

    • Family-friendly atmosphere
    • Tame eels (to feed, not eat)
    • Twice-baked three-cheese soufflé

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sat.--Thurs.
  • 4. Morrisons

    $$$

    Regional, artisanal produce is showcased at this upbeat, all-day café that’s been around for more than 20 years. Wholesome breakfasts, lots of in-house baking, and a tasty lunch menu are the stars here. Try the Nashville Hot Chicken. You can dine in the spacious indoor areas or on the terrace, and enjoy the changing exhibitions of emerging local artists.

    244 Hardy St., Nelson, Nelson, 7010, New Zealand
    03-548–8110

    Known For

    • Moroccan eggs for breakfast
    • Atomic coffee matched with locally produced Oakland milk
    • Tasty, innovative children's menu

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 5. Riverside Café

    $$

    Sprawling gardens make the perfect surrounding for this rambling, 160-year-old, colonial cottage where the menus are built around organic produce, which is all sourced locally, including from the Riverside Community, which owns and operates the café and its own farm. Menu choices range from stylish restaurant fare to French bistro-style with a range of salads and cakes. Sit indoors or on the big verandas, and enjoy the artwork that surrounds you. If you're interested in the workings of this community, established in 1941 by Christian conscientious objectors, you're welcome to take a closer look. The café sits right by the Great Taste Cycle Trail. 

    289 Main Rd., Upper Moutere along Inland Hwy., Lower Moutere, Tasman, 7175, New Zealand
    03-526–7447

    Known For

    • Breakfast until 3 pm
    • Country ambience
    • Outdoor seating

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner Sun.–Thurs.
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  • 6. The Craypot

    $$

    Sustainably caught seafood is the star at this casual, friendly café, but other menu offerings are equally appealing. Meals range from eggs, pancakes, and toasties for breakfast and brunch to lunch steaks, soups, and salads. There’s also a range of the finest Kiwi craft beers and very good coffee served at this indoor/outdoor eatery.

    70 West End Rd., Kaikoura, Canterbury, 7300, New Zealand

    Known For

    • Seafood chowder
    • Kiwi craft beer menu
    • Board games to keep diners entertained

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 7. The Mussel Pot

    $$

    The locally farmed mussels are the stars in this quirky café although the other meals like fish, burgers, pastas, and salads, all served with local wines and craft beers, are also good. As for the mussels, you can order them steamed or grilled with amazing flavors and toppings. On sunny days, head to the courtyard out back.

    73 Main Rd., Havelock, Marlborough, 7100, New Zealand
    03-574–2824

    Known For

    • Steamed mussels
    • Mussel chowder
    • Fish-and-chips

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