Fodor's Expert Review Relais Mahana

This is the island's second-swankiest accommodation, and its new beachfront bungalows, which opened in late 2007, are lovely. They have king beds and daybeds and lots of huge cushions for lounging around on. They have high-pitched ceilings, rattan walls, and cool ceramic tiled floors; furniture includes a stylish long desk with a flat-screen TV at one end. There's a cane table and chairs on the small terrace, just steps away from the lagoon. There are also lagoon-view bungalows (you have to walk down a slight incline to get to the beach) and garden rooms that interconnect and are ideal for families. Each Saturday night there's a Polynesian buffet and dance show (5,804 CFP per person). The hotel has free kayaks and snorkel gear and Jet Skis for hire, and recently opened the Poevai Spa, which offers facials, massages, and two-person Jacuzzi indulgences, all with that Tahitian twist.