Itaewon and Yongsan-gu

Often considered Seoul’s international hub, Itaewon is synonymous with diversity in the eyes of many Koreans. It’s a place where speaking English doesn’t turn heads, American comfort foods are done well, and bars serve craft beer and host trivia nights. It’s also filled with kebab stands, Middle Eastern restaurants, and is home to Seoul’s Central Mosque—and one of the few neighborhoods in the city where many venues openly champion LGBTQ+ rights. While Itaewon and its neighboring districts have seen dramatic changes in the past few years, it remains one of the best examples of global living in Seoul.

Much of Itaewon’s reputation comes from the district’s proximity to the nearby Yongsan Garrison where U.S. military forces were stationed until 2018. While there were stereotypes of Itaewon being a “dangerous place to visit” for many years, the perception of the neighborhood has vastly changed in the past decade thanks in large part to Korean diaspora from abroad, Korean television shows, and shifting attitudes about diversity overall. As a result, there’s been an outpouring of Koreans from all different corners of the city coming to Itaewon for the food and nightlife.

From bars to dance clubs and late-night restaurants, nightlife is a crucial part of what makes Itaewon Itaewon. Just ten years ago, Itaewon was better known for pubs and questionable bars; today, it’s a hotbed of edgy cocktail bars and trendy hip-hop clubs. Visit the clubs on the main Itaewon strip behind Itaewon Station Exit 1 and 2 for commercial music and socializing, and head in the opposite direction to dance to the beat of forward-thinking DJs. East of Itaewon Exit 3 is the famous home of “The Hill,” a gay-friendly part of Seoul with several gay bars and clubs.

For daytime events, look just outside the Itaewon center and into the other parts of Yongsan-gu. Gyeongnidan-gil and Haebangchon are great places to grab a meal, discover a cute cafe, and sit down with a drink. Take the obligatory hike up (or taxi up) Namsan Mountain and admire the celebrated views from N Seoul Tower. You’ll find that the little mountain, spread out across several Seoul districts, is full of surprises including cherry blossoms in the spring and leaves of red and yellow in the fall.

Wholesome activities don’t have to stop there. The War Memorial of Korea, National Museum of Korea, and National Hangeul Museum are three indoor sights where you could easily spend the whole day with your family. Additionally, the Amorepacific Museum and Leeum Samsung Museum of Art in Ichon and Hannam-dong respectively are musts for lovers of contemporary art.

You’ll find that much of the Yongsan-gu area is constantly evolving. Hannam-dong, just East of Itaewon, is filled with boutiques highlighting local designers and Korean restaurants getting creative with traditional recipes. In 2021, Samgakji began to catch the eye of entrepreneurs and is progressively becoming the latest cool place to hang out. Don’t be afraid to strike up a conversation with a barista or bartender, and go off book.

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