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Given that Jeju-do is surrounded by water, it's no surprise that the region is known for its seafood dishes. The popular restaurants in town offer delicious varieties of local favorites but don't hesitate to venture out into the lesser-known parts of the island for an excellent sampling of the regional island fare.
The water off southwest Korea is seriously rough but also rich in galchi (hairtail), and there are few better places to enjoy it than Deokseung Sikdang in the port of Moseulpo. This original branch on the waterfront has been around for decades, serving fish caught that day by the Deokseung-ho, the owner's fishing boat. The galchi jorim (braised hairtail) is a local favorite and is tender, served in a wonderfully savory stew. It does tend to be a bit bony, however, so be careful while you're eating. Another specialty is the mulhoe, or raw fish or cuttlefish served in a chilled spicy soup. Deokseung Sikdang has a newer, second branch nearby that's much bigger and cleaner. If you want old school local ambiance, however, stick with the original branch.
Right on the waterfront in the fishing port of Moseulpo, Glagla Hawaii has plenty of Hawaiian vibes, and there's a poke bowl on the menu, to be sure. The real star of the show, however, is the fish and chips, made with a selection of fish freshly caught in the waters off Moseulpo. The freshly made fish burgers are pretty good, too, and if you want to splurge a bit, try the "Hawaiian steamed seafood," a big spicy bowl of shrimp, murex, mussels, broccoli, corn, potatoes, and sausage. Wash your meal down with a glass of Hawaiian or local draft beer.
Easily one of the most photogenic cafes on Jeju, Gujwa Sanghoe is a collection of old Jeju stone homes, beautifully renovated with vintage wood interiors decorated with arrangements of dried flowers. The star of the menu is the carrot cake, prepared from locally grown carrots. The black tea served in vintage cups is a major draw, too. The neighborhood is pretty cool, too, with a flower shop, bookstore, and other charming spaces. It's quite popular with travelers and young couples, so don't be surprised if there's a line to get in.
This vegetarian temple food restaurant serves dishes made with organic and seasonal ingredients, many of which, like seaweed porridge, a selection of spicy kimchi dishes, and rice wrapped in lotus leaves, are vegan-friendly. The rustic dining room is decorated with traditional Korean art and pottery. Diners can sit at one of the long, low wooden tables on colorful cushions or at a regular table if you prefer to stretch your legs. The restaurant is located in owner and Chef Kim Ae Ja's home, where she also grows many of the herbs that you'll find in your meal. Start off with a glass of shindari, a fermented rice drink and the perfect aperitif.
Overlooking the sea near Hyeopjae Beach and set within a renovated traditional Jeju home, this is a charming spot to order a lunch of udon (Japanese wheat noodles) and tonkatsu (Japanese pork cutlets). Hot udon is available, but the house specialty is its chilled udon, to which you can add fish cake and egg tempura. The sirloin tonkatsu is prepared nice and thick, with a side of rice. The place draws a lot of young couples who typically order both and share, but if you're eating alone, you can order a set of udon with a small slice of tonkatsu on the side. Aside from the food, another draw is the view of Biyangdo Island out the window—it's like looking at a landscape painting. It's a lunch-only place, however, and a reservation is usually a must.
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