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Given that Jeju-do is surrounded by water, it's no surprise that the region is known for its seafood dishes. The popular restaurants in town offer delicious varieties of local favorites but don't hesitate to venture out into the lesser-known parts of the island for an excellent sampling of the regional island fare.
Hidden in an old stone home in a small forest grove in the town of Seongsan, this cozy place serves a mean galchi jorim (braised hairtail), a Jeju specialty. It's also known for being especially inviting to solo diners, still something of a rarity in Korea. Solo diners can enjoy their galchi jorim with a choice of three side soups: abalone and seaweed, sea urchin and seaweed, or soybean paste. The dishes are fresh and plentiful, too. Order a bottle of local Hallasan soju to complete the meal.
The water off southwest Korea is seriously rough but also rich in galchi (hairtail), and there are few better places to enjoy it than Deokseung Sikdang in the port of Moseulpo. This original branch on the waterfront has been around for decades, serving fish caught that day by the Deokseung-ho, the owner's fishing boat. The galchi jorim (braised hairtail) is a local favorite and is tender, served in a wonderfully savory stew. It does tend to be a bit bony, however, so be careful while you're eating. Another specialty is the mulhoe, or raw fish or cuttlefish served in a chilled spicy soup. Deokseung Sikdang has a newer, second branch nearby that's much bigger and cleaner. If you want old school local ambiance, however, stick with the original branch.
This vegetarian temple food restaurant serves dishes made with organic and seasonal ingredients, many of which, like seaweed porridge, a selection of spicy kimchi dishes, and rice wrapped in lotus leaves, are vegan-friendly. The rustic dining room is decorated with traditional Korean art and pottery. Diners can sit at one of the long, low wooden tables on colorful cushions or at a regular table if you prefer to stretch your legs. The restaurant is located in owner and Chef Kim Ae Ja's home, where she also grows many of the herbs that you'll find in your meal. Start off with a glass of shindari, a fermented rice drink and the perfect aperitif.
This small, unassuming joint in downtown Jeju has only one item on the menu: gogi guksu (a hearty soup of thin wheat noodles, pork broth, and thick slices of pork meat), served with a side of kimchi and a couple of green chili peppers. You can find this local specialty throughout Jeju, but few places do it better. They don't skimp on the pork, and the broth is especially rich and filling. As the celebrity signatures covering the walls would attest, this place is quite popular, with lines forming from the morning. Still, turnover is such that you're unlikely to wait too long.
At this no-frills Korean eatery—so popular that it has its own waiting hall—one of the house specialties is gosari haejangguk, a rich stew of pork and fernbrake, an edible fern that covers Jeju's fields in spring. So thick that it's almost a porridge, the stew reportedly keeps hangovers away, an assertion you could test with a bottle or two of locally produced Hallasan soju. The other specialty is gomguk, an equally rich soup of minced pork, pork bone broth and gulfweed, an edible brown seaweed. You might have to wait an hour to get in during the busiest lunch and dinner hours, but it's well worth it.
This lively spot in one of downtown Seogwipo's entertainment districts has just one thing on the menu: duruchigi (spicy stir-fried pork and vegetables), which you cook yourself on a skillet at your table. It's cheap, tasty, and filling. Be sure to grab a bowl of rice from the communal steamer and fry it up in the leftover sauce. They don't sell alcohol, but they let you bring your own booze, and there are nearby convenience stores to assist you in this endeavor. It can get crowded at night, but the atmosphere is energizing.
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