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Itinerary suggestion - 11-12 days in Kyushu in early May

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Itinerary suggestion - 11-12 days in Kyushu in early May

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Old Mar 20th, 2024, 02:13 AM
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Itinerary suggestion - 11-12 days in Kyushu in early May

I'm currently planning a 1 month vacation in Japan, during which I'd like to spend 11 (or 12 days, depending on the recommendation) in the Kyushu region, and I would like some advice on my broad itinerary. I won't lie, I'm a bit overwhelmed and need people to guide me a little bit.
  • May 1st - Flying early from Tokyo, airport to hotel, then spend the day in Fukuoka | sleep Fukuoka
  • May 2nd - Visit Fukuoka, heard the food scene is amazing, visit shrines, etc. | sleep Fukuoka
  • May 3rd - Continue to hit touristic and foodie spots in Fukuoka | sleep in Fukuoka
  • May 4th - Early Shinkansen to Nagasaki, atomic bomb museum, peace park | sleep in Nagasaki
  • May 5th - Nagasaki, Chinatown, shrines, haven't looked up everything yet | sleep in Nagasaki
  • May 6th - Nagasaki -> Shimabara for the day and ferry to Kumamoto in the evening | sleep in Kumamoto
  • May 7th - Kumamoto just for the day, heard the castle is beautiful | sleep in Kumamoto
  • May 8th - Go early to Kurokawa (bus? car?), go first to Mount Aso maybe in the morning? How's the situation in Kurokawa for a lightly tattooed person? | sleep in Kurokawa
  • May 9th - Go early to Kagoshima (train? car?), on the way go to Takachiho maybe? and Kamishikimi Kumanoza Shrine? | sleep in Kagoshima
  • May 10th - Kagoshima, Sakurajima, etc. Food scene look amazing there | sleep in Kagoshima
  • May 11th - Kagoshima in the morning, then go to Kirishima to be closer to the airport | sleep in Kirishima
  • May 12th - Kagoshima airport flight for Okinawa

First of all, does that look feasible? Seems ok to me, but I've never been there.

I'd love to rent a car, but does my itinerary needs it? If not, is there a Kyushu Pass that covers everything that I want to do here?

With the possibility of renting a car, what hidden-gems/out of the way village should I add or swap in my itinerary? Should I rent it starting from Kumamoto?

Also, I love craft beers, any recommendation in the area?

Would love your help!

Last edited by marcodias1159; Mar 20th, 2024 at 02:15 AM.
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Old Mar 20th, 2024, 07:32 AM
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I love Yufuin, a sweet little town, and just because the onsen are amazing, I go to Suginoi Hotel in Beppu. Take a look and see if these appeal to you. I've been to both multiple times. Have fun! Oh, and just know you will never do everything on your list and that's half the fun...
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Old Mar 20th, 2024, 08:53 AM
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It is feasible and busy. Do you mean this year? Your first five days will be during Golden Week. This is one of the busiest travel times of the year and travel to Japan should be avoided (other times are Obon and end of year).

May 1st - subway to Hakata station and then bus or subway. Taxi fare from the airport is not expensive but figure about $25.
Fukuoka - Chikae Restaraunt. Dazaifu is optional, imo, but a nice visit.
May 4th -
limited express to Takeo Onsen and then Shinkansen, cross the platform to change trains in seconds
Nagasaki - definitely take the ropeway to get the views. Visit Gkiver Garden.
May 6th - Nagasaki -> Shimabara - Kumamoto. Ok, shinkansen and then the one-car Shimabara Railway (not JR) which is kind of cute and you would probably be the only tourist among the school kids and other locals. I took that train a few months ago heading from Shimabara to Nagasaki.

You could just take JR from Nagasaki to Kumamoto in about 2 hours. Use a JR Northern Kyushu Pass The 3-day pass for May 4-6. A 5-day pass might be worth it if you did go to Dazaifu and could use it to get to Aso.
May 8th - bus from Kumamoto is possible. Better would be JR to Aso and then bus to Kurokawa Onsen. You need to reserve that bus (I can help with this later if you decide to do it). The buses are not frequent. Best would be by car from Kumamoto.


IDK about tattoos on the onsen circuit in Kurokawa but you certainly could stay at a place with a private bath (I can recommend a high-end ryokan outside of town).

May 9th - Takachiho, maybe, but only if you have a car. You could go there by bus but would need to spend the night there (and go to the evening kagura performance at the shrine) but even then it is a bit too much with going to Kagoshima the next day. IDK how reasonable it is to take a car and make the Takachiho stop

May 11th - to be closer to the airport is not the reason to go to Kirishima. Kirishima Onsen for a soak, ok, or to visit the shrine. There is some good hiking in the area. Bus from Kagoshima to the airport is nbd.

YES, car from Kumamoto ... Kagoshima is a very good idea.

Last edited by mrwunrfl; Mar 20th, 2024 at 08:55 AM.
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Old Mar 21st, 2024, 02:29 AM
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Thank both of you for your answers.

mrwunrfl Sadly, I won't be able to avoid the Golden Week, I'll be in Japan from 27th of April to 25th of May. I'll be careful and book trains as soon as possible during this week
Wouldn't it be faster to take the ferry from Shimabara to Kumamoto instead of doing the whole loop again?
Maybe this day is too busy and I should skip Shimabara and spend the whole day in Nagasaki before leaving for Kumamoto in the evening?

I'll skip Takachiho since you think it's too much, but would a car still be needed then?
I'd love recommendations on the way from Kumamoto to Kagoshima, for the car to be useful: Mount Aso, Kurokawa, something else maybe? Cute village in the countryside, etc.

Please recommend me the Ryokan around Kurokawa, I'll check it out.

I'll probably skip the night in Kirishima and have 3 nights in Kagoshima. While I still have the car, if we have time, I'll maybe go check out Kirishima.
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Old Mar 21st, 2024, 07:11 AM
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>> Wouldn't it be faster to take the ferry ...
No, it would be slower. Shinkansen to Isahaya and transfer to the Shimabara Tetsudo train to Shimabara Port is 1h 46m

This is the transit route of the search result from Nagasaki(Nagasaki) to Shimabara Port Ferry Terminal - Japan Transit Planner | Norikae Annai (jorudan.co.jp)

The transfer at Isahaya is not hard but be certain to make it. You can check on it, but I don't think that train is frequent. You should look at that train timetable and the ferry timetable to see what your options are if you miss the connection at Isahaya (you won't, but be prepared).

And then you have wait time for the ferry, the ferry ride, and transfer from the port to the city. It definitely will take more time (an hour or two more, IDK) but it would be mpre entertaining than the JR trip. You definitely would want to make that trip during daytime to get some enjoyment out of it.

JR would take ~2 hours with 2 easy transfers and pretty much a no-brainer.

This is the transit route of the search result from Nagasaki(Nagasaki) to Kumamoto - Japan Transit Planner | Norikae Annai (jorudan.co.jp)
You would not be missing much by making this trip after dark.

You will have long days in May, though, so you could spend more time in Nagasaki while still traveling in daytime by ferry or JR.

Last edited by mrwunrfl; Mar 21st, 2024 at 07:17 AM.
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Old Mar 21st, 2024, 07:39 AM
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>> lightly tattooed person
I googled: tattoos in kurokawa onsen

And found, among other results, this:
In general, it seems like Kurokawa Onsen is a popular place for foreigners that is more open-minded and accommodating of tattoos than other places. Just to be safe, however, you can cover small to medium-sized tattoos with skin-colored tattoo stickers before bathing.
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Old Mar 21st, 2024, 08:29 AM
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>> I'll skip Takachiho since you think it's too much, but would a car still be needed then?

To get to Kurokawa Onsen you will travel by bus or car. The bus has a schedule but your car does not. Huge difference. FAIK, you could drive from Kurokawa Onsen to Takachiho, spend some time there, and go on to Kagoshima or Kirishima Onsen for the night. I have no idea if it is worth the drive time. You definitely would not want to do that by bus/train.

You will need to work out the drive to Aso and Kurokawa Onsen (the town might scratch your itch for a cute village, it really is nice).


My stay at Yamamizuki Bettei Miyama Sansou cost ¥56,650 for what I would call a duplex villa. (FAIK, I may have paid the two-person rate) It had a foyer, a traditional Japanese ryokan room, a bedroom with two double beds, toilet, ~bathroom with a sliding door to a bathing room (shower and a wonderful deep/long tub with continuously flowing hot spring water). Excellent meals and wonderful staff. I did not use the public baths.

I took a bus from Yufuin to Kurokawa Onsen. The ryokan shuttle picked me up at the bus stop and drove down to the little visitors center. I had several hours to visit the the town. The shuttle driver picked me up at the visitor center and took me to the ryokan site. The ryokan complex, I could say, because there were quite a few villas (separate buildings with two lodgings). I think that was the Miyama part of the property and different from the Yamamizuki part described here:
Kurokawa Onsen Travel Guide - What to do in Kurokawa Onsen (japan-guide.com)

The next day the shuttle dropped me off at the bus stop. The bus made two rest stops and then a longer stop at Aso Station, and then dropped me off at Kumamoto Airport. The bus continued on to Kumamoto-shi.

I loved visiting Kurokawa Onsen, that ryokan especially. Would have been better if the trip was not restricted by the bus schedule.

You might be too late to book lodging in Kurokawa Onsen in May, especially for a solo traveller. You could try to book your night there but also have a one-night reservation in Kumamoto or Aso. One that you can cancel with no penalty. Then you could keep looking for availability in Kurokawa Onsen, as there might be last-minute cancellations.

You could take a look at the feasibility of a driving day-trip from Kumamoto to Kurokawa Onsen. You can get from Kumamoto to Aso by JR.

Last edited by mrwunrfl; Mar 21st, 2024 at 08:32 AM.
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Old Mar 26th, 2024, 02:51 PM
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[Notice]
  • From April 26, 2024 to May 6, 2024 all seats on the Tokaido and Sanyo Shinkansen NOZOMI will operate with reserved seating

Nozomi Trains to Operate with All Reserved Seats on the Tokaido and Sanyo Shinkansen during 2024 Golden Week Period (westjr.co.jp)
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Old Mar 27th, 2024, 07:46 PM
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I have a question about traveling during Golden Week. Is it possible to book in advance and just plan to drive yourself? I’m think Kyushu not until next year but my plans should be during golden week. Thanks.
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