scrb11

So there were award tickets in business class at Saver award miles levels.

Kind of last minute planning, hadn't expected to travel again this year (currently in the UK now).

But it's a great use of all these miles that you accumulate and I haven't been to NZ since before the pandemic (actually Dec 2019).

Been to NZ several times and seen many of the most popular destinations in the South Island.

Looking for coastal walks (not long hikes or treks with a lot of climbing) and scenic places. So places like the Banks Peninsula and Lyttleton Harbor, I've seen several times.

Trying to decide if it's worth going to Dunedin and then the coast to the SW -- never been to this part of the SI. Long ways from Queenstown, about 3-4 hour drive, or alternatively fly into Dunedin airport.

Also looking at visiting Napier, which I've never been to either. I don't really see driving through NI to/from AKL, would rather fly it. Napier seems to be about 4-5 hours from both Auckland and Wellington.

Not sure about other NI destinations. I guess one place is famous for glowing worms or something like that. Not really interested in going out of my way for that.

Is it Rotorua with a cable car? But the scenery from there isn't comparable to the one in Queenstown?


Looking for ideas, it's about 2 full weeks on the ground. Trying to avoid driving more than 3-4 hours between any two destinations so would opt for domestic flights in such cases.

Melnq8

Have you explored Abel Tasman National Park or the Marlborough Sounds?

Beautiful part of the north of the SI - and coastal.

Dunedin isn't even in my top 10 on the SI, but Diamantina lives there and she'll probably chime in soon with some excellent suggestions.

PS - glow worms are overrated IME

mlgb

It sort of depends on where you've been, where you live, and what kind of scenery you like. For me, who lives in California, the Sounds look a lot like California so less interesting scenery-wise. And Napier even more so.
If you don't get seasick the ferry from Wellington is a good ride, though. You can fly from Auckland to Wellington, reminds me a bit of San Francisco with a nice waterfront and the museum (Te Papa) Then take the ferry to Picton (maybe worth one night, good seafood restaurant at the Oxley). You can also cruise the Sounds in more depth from Picton if that interests. Or from Picton you can go west to Nelson (bus or drive), the road is a bit windy. There are car rentals in either town. From Nelson you can find tours to Abel Tasman which has coastal walking tracks.


From Picton there is also a train that goes to Kaikoura (around the weekends now) so you don't even have to drive there, and then continue onward to Christchurch and rent a car. Kaikoura has good scenery, and the whale/albatross watch boat excursions.

I actually like Dunedin and you can fly there inexpensively from Christchurch. It is now a cruise ship destination so maybe has become over-subscribed. Has another good museum (Otago Museum). Unfortunately no more Cadbury World but if you like beer I think the Speight's Brewery is running tours again, and there are lots of microbreweries as well. Also a big coffee culture. There is an albatross colony on the mainland if you haven't seen them in Kaikoura. It looks like Elm Wildlife is running their tours again. https://www.elmwildlifetours.co.nz/

From Dunedin there are some special train trips on select dates (I did Tareiri Gorge a long time ago)
https://www.dunedinrailways.co.nz/jo...lander-journey

I can't recall where else you've been or if you did a trip report

Unfortunately NZ has become so popular that even without a cruise ship in port I think you will need to book lodging ahead of time and not "wing it".

scrb11

Been to Able Tasman once. Hiked a portion of the track but not all the way.

Overnighted in Kaikoura a couple of times, also Wellington. Also took the ferry across a couple of times, had great weather once.

Overnighted in Picton last time and hiked a little bit but I had researched doing Queen Charlotte track but it was very overcast on the day so I didn't go.

What about the coast SW of Dunedin, the southernmost point of NZ? Worth driving out there or most people go from Christchurch to QT by way of Lake Tekapo, Mt. Cook, Wanaka because the scenery through that route is unbeatable? I've been through these places a couple of times. Also did the west coast, visited Fox's Glacier via helicopter.

mlgb

The Catlins which I assume is what you mean by the coast west of Dunedin (but not the inland faster route) and south of Christchurch Oamaru is e also nice. As well as I like the "Pigroot" road and Maniototo scenery. Made famous by the painter Grahame Sydney. If you’re travelling from the East Coast to Central Otago there is the option to turn inland at Palmerston to Ranfurly through the ‘Pigroot’ and into the Maniototo. Travel to Alexandra then back down via Roxburgh to the ‘Edinburgh of the South’, Dunedin. This is a wonderful round trip taking in some of the best scenery in the South Island.

https://www.maniototo.co.nz/

Another option is the Coromandel Peninsula which is not that far from Auckland,

mlgb

I used to recommend Invercargill but it has some of the worst weather in NZ and the excellent Southland Museum is closed. Now it is really just a stop on the way to Stewart Island. It also gets a bit of rain. I finally made it there and to Ulva Island for a bit of birdwatching.
Have you done Arthur's Pass as part of your west coast visit?

Melnq8

It also gets a bit of rain.

As does most of NZ

mlgb

LOL.. Even Hawke's Bay isn't immune.

scrb11

I believe so, on my first trip. That's where those aggressive birds are suppose to be right?

Went to stay at Greymouth and visited the Punakaiki rocks before heading south.

I will have to research the Catlins and the route you described further. One thing about the Catlins, I looked a couple of years ago and lodging options seemed sparse, like there's no sizable towns between Dunedin and Invercargill? So there might be motels here and there but like no town centers with multiple restaurant options or possibly other attractions?


Also saw Bay of Islands touted but it appears maybe more of a day trip location, no accommodations on the islands so you'd have to be interested in taking boat trips and doing some hiking and then return the same day?

Melnq8

Aggressive birds? Are you referring to Keas?

They're curious and social, but not what I'd consider aggressive. They will damage car windshield moldings given the chance.

They're commonly found in alpine areas like Arthur's Pass, the West Coast and Mt Cook.

Lodging options are definitely sparse in the Catlins. It stretches between Balcutha and Invercargill. Keep in mind there are two distinct areas - we've found the area so large that we visited twice, once staying in the north and once in the south. There's a lot to do if you enjoy walking/hiking, bird-watching, etc. The main town in the North Catlins is Owaka, and it's home to about 300 people.

https://www.catlins.org.nz/

scrb11

I'd heard that they'd take your food if you didn't watch out while dining at that place at Arthur's Pass.

mlgb

Yes the Kea parrots hang around Arthur's Pass, poaching at the Cafe. I would call them fearless.

The Catlins is not like Queenstown (thankfully). Owaka is the largest town between the Dunedin and Invercargill and has restaurants but isn't particularly far from Dunedin. There are other small lodgings/motels that are not on the big consolidator websites. Check the Clutha Region website link here https://www.cluthanz.com/visit/accommodation/ which has contact info for small places and many now also have their own book direct websites. There is also an excellent map on that website which includes cafe locations (assuming they are still open). Kaka Point would be a good location for one or more nights, for example www.catlins.co.nz/ (Disclaimer I stayed in a home stay with dinner included)
In smaller towns there should be cafes and take away spots (gas stations often have good selection of sandwiches and pies). Check the lodging websites if they have one, or contact them and ask if there is anywhere to eat dinner nearby. Open hours are not reliable so having a stash of "emergency food" is a good idea. On our trip last year we cooked at the motels three times for dinner, once because the restaurant was unexpectedly closed on Sundays. If you like to self cater there are New World supermarkets in Balclutha or Invercargill but plan ahead.

Bay of Islands has a lot of history and you can stay in one of the "big" towns like Kerikeri or Paihia if you need a lot of restaurants. If you have never been to Northland I think it's worth considering. There is a lot more than Bay of Islands. More info on the Northland website https://www.northlandnz.com/visit/

We stayed in Kerikeri one night, see my trip report for restaurants and lodgings.
Semi live from New Zealand

For beaches I like the coast north of there (eg Cable Bay) but Nov/Dec is still a little early for beach weather.
Even more so on the Catlins Coast (exposed to the Southern Ocean).

Diamantina

scrb11, I don't know if you are still contemplating a trip to the East Coast of the Deep South of NZ, but I would advise that late-November to early December would not be a good time for coastal walks here. For example, late November-early December is Dunedin's wettest time of the year (FYI: July is the driest month, but also very cold). It can also be very windy on sunny summer days, and the southeasterlies and northeasterlies can be highly unpleasant.However, the weather does start to get warmer beginning in December and the days are still long. And there aren't many tourists about; you might call it "shoulder season". Even in summer, during school holidays and the cruise season, there aren't many tourists about (say, as compared to Barcelona's Las Ramblas).

If you like blue skies and sunny weather, I would go for February to March. This is also when the winds begin to die down. Now that I've said all this, I should add climatologists have predicted that our weather will be atypical this year because of El Niņo conditions.

Downtown Dunedin, which is home to an abundance of NZ heritage buildings, is a unsightly mess right now. The main commercial street, George St., has been torn up to create a more pedestrian-friendly environment (eventually). Meanwhile, Dunedinites and visitors to the city center have had to put up with excavations and fencing; while drivers and pedestrians alike have had to deal with strange, circuitous detours. Our famous Dunedin Railway Station is obscured by draping and scaffoding as it undergoes earthquake strenthening and roof repairs. Even our normally attractive Octagon has been affected, with its most iconic buildings being renovated or repaired: St. Paul's Cathedral is fixing fire damage at the rear of the church, and I-don't-know-what's-going-on with the Town Hall, but it was surrounded by scaffolding and now its base is hidden by a immense (albeit attractive) mural commemorating this year's FIFA Women's World Cup (Dunedin was the only FIFA venue on the South Island). Construction of the new Dunedin Hospital has also begun on the old Cadbury Factory site.

So is the area from the Catlins to Dunedin to Oamaru worth seeing and would you be able to take lovely coastal walks along this coast, providing the weather allows? Absolutely, this area offers NZ history, geological treasures, rare wildlife, natural beauty, and rural serenity--but if weather is important to your planned outdoor activities and photos, then think carefully before coming to this region from late November-early December.

Dunedin's main commercial street (taken with my phone)

Dunedin Railway Station, covered in draping that hides scaffolding beneath. The work is supposed to be done by the end of the year, but I wouldn't count on it! (taken with my phone)

scrb11

Thanks for the information about all the Dunedin construction and the weather in that part of the island in Nov/December.

I remember looking up average rain and sunny days for Dunedin a few years ago. Seemed like a very wet area but then pretty much all of Otago seems to be.

I've spent spectacular days in Queenstown weather-wise as well as stretches of a lot of rain there.

But the warning about the winds make sense. I saw for instance Torres del Paine can have intense winds too, because it's so far south of the Equator.

Maybe I need to look more at Canterbury or further north or the NI.

Diamantina

You're welcome.

I must make a correction to my previous post. I passed by the Dunedin Railway Station later today and the draping had been been removed! It must have been removed over the past week. Other than some coverings on the side structures, the building once again looks like its former beautiful self.

We don't really get much rain, but December tends to be the rainiest month. The city rates among NZ's driest cities, along with many of the other cities and towns on or near the South Island's East Coast. It's generally cold (to me at least, as I'm originally from northern California). Throughout the year we can have three- to four-seasons-in-a-day weather.. Today, for instance, it started off gray, cold and windy, then in the afternoon, it turn beautifully sunny and warmish, then about a couple of hours later, gray and cold again, and looking as if it could rain. El Nino might allow us to enjoy some consistently warmer, drier weather (though it could be disastrous for farmers). When it's sunny, this city is beautiful



View from the Sandymount track, Otago Peninsula, Dunedin

But it can be windy, as you can see from this tree hovering over the road to the Sandymount Track.

Sandfly Bay, Otago Peninsula. No sandflies, just sand that "flies" because it tends to be windy.

Allans Beach, my favorite Otago Peninsula beach.

NZ sea lions on Allans Beach.On the mainland, you'll only find these on the southern end of the East Coast of the South Island, from about Oamaru down to the Catlins. Their main breeding sites are on NZ's subantarctic islands.

Okia Reserve, Otago Peninsula.

Taiaroa Head, Otago Peninsula. Home to the albatross colony, a smallish Little Blue penguin colony, and Fort Taiaroa.

Highcliff Road, Otago Peninsula. Note, that dirt track ahead is not Highcliff Road, but just a road down to someone's property. Highcliff Road is winding, with some drop offs, but the views are fantastic on a clear day. Some of its views are ocean-facing, others, like this one, face the harbour.

View from Orokonui Ecosanctuary, Dunedin. It offers nice walking tracks through native bush.

The rare Takahe, Orokonui Ecosanctuary

The rare Jeweled gecko, Orokonui.

The sea-carved sandstone rock formation at Tunnel Beach, Dunedin

The steep, but short, track to Tunnel Beach.

Tunnel Beach at sundown.

St. Leonards suburb on Otago Harbour, Dunedin

Nugget Point in the North Catlins, a 90-minute drive south of Dunedin.:

Moeraki Boulders, about 45 minutes north of Dunedin:

Elephant Rocks, inland from Oamaru, which is about 90 minutes north of Dunedin. Oamaru is a charming small city (or large town) with a beautifully preserved Victorian Old Town and Little Blue Penguin Colony. Whitestone Cheese is also based in Oamaru and they offer factory tours.

Melnq8

Fantastic photos Diamantina...you're making me long for NZ

Diamantina

Thanks for your kind words, Melnq8.
I do feel you are overdue for another visit!

scrb11

Any opinions on Napier or some of the other NI destinations aside from Auckland?

It seems like a nice town but you're going way out of the way, long way from both Auckland and Wellington.

Just looking around at photos online, there doesn't seem to be as many dramatic landscapes on the NI as there is in the SI.


I may look again at Queen Charlotte Track, the last time I tried to do it, it either rained in Picton or was overcast so I didn't go. I had planned to use one of the water taxi services which drop you off and pick you up later at a different point.

I used a similar service in Abel Tasman park. I didn't hike the whole thing but just a couple of hours, but had great weather and thus visibility.

mlgb

I probably wouldn't.You are correct about the landscapes on the North Island but Northland has some nice beaches up north and the Kauri forests. Matai Bay is especially beautiful. There are also the volcanos in the center of the NI (Taranaki..good luck ever getting a view of that one), also out of the way. Assume you've already been up to Tongariro etc?

scrb11

Yes I've found some beautiful places but they are pretty far apart. For instance Cape Reinga, the furthest northern part of NI and the country. So far from Auckland and not sure what else is up there or on the way there to make the long trek.

Tauranga looks nice too, 2.5-3 hours out of Auckland.

Taranaki does look beautiful but the famous spot with the reflecting pool is a 2-2.5 hour hike each way. Too intense for me, too time-consuming. New Plymouth does look like a nice coastal town but again, far fro the bigger cities like Wellington or Auckland.

Castlepoint, also scenic but again seems really out of the way, requiring more than 4 hours from almost anywhere of note.

At least a spot like Nugget Point is "only" 90 minutes from Dunedin. I know first hand SI destinations also require long drives in between as well.

I guess one generalization is NI is generally flatter and doesn't have the big dramatic lakes surrounded by peaks like the SI.

Also probably had expectations set by how beautiful and close Lyttleton, Godley Head and Diamond Harbour are to Christchurch. Akaroa is a longer slog, 90 minutes each way but nothing like the 3-4 hours or more drives in the NI.

Matai Bay looks like a nice excursion out of Auckland, just about an hour drive. I also found a track near Piha which overlooks some dramatic cliffs over the Tasman, again relatively close to Auckland.

There are itineraries for the NI where you're driving north or south between Auckland and Wellington but it takes days and maybe several overnights, if you don't want to drive more than 3-4 hours a day. But I would probably just fly between AKL and WLG or and the SI.