A Month in Aix-en-Provence
Mar 22nd, 2022, 10:48 PM
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A Month in Aix-en-Provence
Thought I would finally do a bit of a trip report about our month in Aix-en-Provence last fall. I won’t go into all of the details day-by-day but will provide an overview and am happy to answer any questions other travelers might have. I had so much help from this group, and I truly appreciate all of the support.
We had a 5:30 a.m. car pick us up for the drive to LAX. Our 8:30 am flight left on time and we departed from LAX, connected through Chicago on United. LAX was a breeze but O’Hare was a bit unorganized. Still in the height of Covid, airlines didn’t have a buttoned-up process in place to check paperwork and vaccines. With a 3-hour layover in Chicago, there was no reason for us to stress. After standing in a long line at our gate to receive the proper bracelet, we boarded our plane bound for Paris. As we were ready to push back, our female captain came on the intercom and said there were a few people whose connection got in late and we were going to wait for them. With such few flights to Europe, this seemed the humanitarian thing to do. Life had slowed. Priorities had changed. No one had a problem with departing late. Upon landing, I sought out this female captain and told her how proud I was to be a passenger on her plane.
The long haul – 19 hours – was complete! We landed in Paris!
Quick and efficient process at CDG. No one checked our vaccine cards, only our passports. But our journey wasn’t over yet -- we were off to catch our train to Aix. We had built three hours into our schedule to get our bags and to the train station at CDG. It was more than enough time. Our TGV left for the Paris Disney station where we were supposed to have just under an hour until our next train. However, our OUIGO train had a mechanical problem. It pulled into Marne-la-Valle Chessy an hour late. But there it sat. There we sat. We waited on the train, we waited off the train, we finally got a new train and departed three hours late. Arriving at the Aix-en-Provence TGV Station after dark, we followed people to the bus to take us into town.
30 hours later we were finally at our destination. C'est la vie.
Our apartment was a dream! Located in the heart of Old Town on a beautiful street it was exactly what we wanted. We woke up with a bundle of energy to go explore what would be our hometown for the next four weeks. The chatter on the street was beckoning so we ventured out to the picturesque Place Richelme with its warm-colored buildings, plane trees and many cafes surrounding a bustling market. We picked up some orange bread then walked along the uneven winding streets to the Place de Justice where another market was in full swing. There were several vendors selling from big pots of paella, large ovens roasting chickens and many other delicious-looking dishes. We picked up paella and poulet bio basquaise with pomme de terre to have dinner that evening. Then back to Place Richelme where we settled into Café l’Unic for café sitting, people watching and coffee. It was the perfect French morning! Week one highlights to come.
Any hints on how to downsize my photos? This happened when I posted my London and Edinburgh Trip Reports as well. What am I doing wrong?
Place Richelme
We had a 5:30 a.m. car pick us up for the drive to LAX. Our 8:30 am flight left on time and we departed from LAX, connected through Chicago on United. LAX was a breeze but O’Hare was a bit unorganized. Still in the height of Covid, airlines didn’t have a buttoned-up process in place to check paperwork and vaccines. With a 3-hour layover in Chicago, there was no reason for us to stress. After standing in a long line at our gate to receive the proper bracelet, we boarded our plane bound for Paris. As we were ready to push back, our female captain came on the intercom and said there were a few people whose connection got in late and we were going to wait for them. With such few flights to Europe, this seemed the humanitarian thing to do. Life had slowed. Priorities had changed. No one had a problem with departing late. Upon landing, I sought out this female captain and told her how proud I was to be a passenger on her plane.
The long haul – 19 hours – was complete! We landed in Paris!
Quick and efficient process at CDG. No one checked our vaccine cards, only our passports. But our journey wasn’t over yet -- we were off to catch our train to Aix. We had built three hours into our schedule to get our bags and to the train station at CDG. It was more than enough time. Our TGV left for the Paris Disney station where we were supposed to have just under an hour until our next train. However, our OUIGO train had a mechanical problem. It pulled into Marne-la-Valle Chessy an hour late. But there it sat. There we sat. We waited on the train, we waited off the train, we finally got a new train and departed three hours late. Arriving at the Aix-en-Provence TGV Station after dark, we followed people to the bus to take us into town.
30 hours later we were finally at our destination. C'est la vie.
Our apartment was a dream! Located in the heart of Old Town on a beautiful street it was exactly what we wanted. We woke up with a bundle of energy to go explore what would be our hometown for the next four weeks. The chatter on the street was beckoning so we ventured out to the picturesque Place Richelme with its warm-colored buildings, plane trees and many cafes surrounding a bustling market. We picked up some orange bread then walked along the uneven winding streets to the Place de Justice where another market was in full swing. There were several vendors selling from big pots of paella, large ovens roasting chickens and many other delicious-looking dishes. We picked up paella and poulet bio basquaise with pomme de terre to have dinner that evening. Then back to Place Richelme where we settled into Café l’Unic for café sitting, people watching and coffee. It was the perfect French morning! Week one highlights to come.
Any hints on how to downsize my photos? This happened when I posted my London and Edinburgh Trip Reports as well. What am I doing wrong?
Place Richelme
Mar 23rd, 2022, 05:16 AM
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Looking forward to your report. Can't believe you had the energy to get on a train after a 19-hour flight! Wow!!! We live in MA so our flights to Europe are much shorter. But we've been to China several times, so I know how grueling these long flights are.
Love your photo! I recognized Place Richelme right away!
Love your photo! I recognized Place Richelme right away!
Mar 23rd, 2022, 08:48 AM
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How I envy you your month in Aix! We've been there a number of times, but the peak was a two-week stay a few years ago in a gorgeous apartment in the Allees Provencales, behind La Rotonde.
I'm looking forward to what you discover during your stay. One of my favorite little places--the place des Trois Ormeaux, a tiny triangular place about a three-minutes walk from the pl. Richelme that is full of charm. I don't know if they still do this, but a nearby restaurant, l'Incontournable, used to set up tables there in the evening. It was a wonderful place to have dinner.
Pls. keep up the reports--and the pictures!
I'm looking forward to what you discover during your stay. One of my favorite little places--the place des Trois Ormeaux, a tiny triangular place about a three-minutes walk from the pl. Richelme that is full of charm. I don't know if they still do this, but a nearby restaurant, l'Incontournable, used to set up tables there in the evening. It was a wonderful place to have dinner.
Pls. keep up the reports--and the pictures!
Mar 23rd, 2022, 09:53 AM
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I remember having lunch outdoors at a cafe in Aix. They were chilling white wine in a fountain near the tables. So cute! We visited Aix a number of times when our daughter lived there for a couple years. I miss it. We haven't been for a few years. Need to go back next time we are in Provence.
Mar 23rd, 2022, 11:29 AM
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I am following along, too. I have not been in Aix in several years but do plan to go back especially since I now know just a few people there. I like the fact that you were staying in the central area. Ce joli coin de pays me manque beaucoup !
Mar 23rd, 2022, 04:43 PM
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Karen and Kerouac, you were both such a huge help with my planning. I need to move from California to the east coast so I can get to Europe more quickly.
Yes Frenchaucoeur, there is still a charming restaurant set up at place des Trois Ormeaux!
YankyGal and Coquelicot, I'm glad the picture wasn't oversized. I'll add more this time.
Yes Frenchaucoeur, there is still a charming restaurant set up at place des Trois Ormeaux!
YankyGal and Coquelicot, I'm glad the picture wasn't oversized. I'll add more this time.
Mar 23rd, 2022, 04:59 PM
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The beauty of having four weeks is that, although I am an obsessive over-planner, we didn’t have to plan every segment of every day. We always take walking tours early into our adventure and this was no different. Most tours were in French; I think this was due to Covid and tourist activities were not up and running completely. And although I had studied French on and off (more off) for the past two years (this trip was postponed from 2020), a tour in English was what we pursued.
The history of Aix starts with the Roman consul of Caius Sextius Calvinus in 122 B.C. Just fascinating! We roamed the Old Town, the “new” Quartier Mazarin, heard about the rise, fall and rise of this vibrant city. And vibrant it is! We met a lovely German couple; the wife spoke English. It was nice to spend time with them a couple of nights, and of course, now we are friends on LinkedIn and such. One of the many reasons we travel, right?
Well-dressed people everywhere, a very clean pedestrian town, darling expensive clothing shops, some touristy restaurants but some very good local restaurants and wine bars, and a fantastic Indian restaurant called Delhi Delice. We found a charming boulangerie that fast became our morning routine. Actually, my husband’s morning routine. He would venture out early and come back with two pain au chocolat from Jacob’s Boulangerie then make coffee in the little Bialetti espresso maker. Simple pleasures.
Jacob's Boulangerie
The Cathédrale Saint Sauveur is a don’t miss. Dating back to the 12th century, construction spanned seven centuries and combines various styles that are Baroque, Gothic and Romanesque. We also walked to Le Terrain des Peintres, Cezanne’s favorite vista of Sainte-Victoire Mountain (11,000 steps there and back!)
As luck would have it, this week was Aix’s back-to-school/summer clearance sale. My husband was the luckier and scored several shirts from Peter Polo Saint Tropez and two pairs of suede loafers from Bocage Homme.
But the highlight of this week, and the memory still in my mind six months later is a young gentleman pianist who came to the elegant 18th century Place d’ Albertas a few evenings and played the most marvelous classical music. Listening from the open French doors of our apartment or sitting on the wall of the elegant cast-iron fountain built in 1912 that rests in the middle of the square, I still hear Frederic Chopin’s Nocturne in F-sharp major, Op. 15 No. 2.
Place d' Albertas
The history of Aix starts with the Roman consul of Caius Sextius Calvinus in 122 B.C. Just fascinating! We roamed the Old Town, the “new” Quartier Mazarin, heard about the rise, fall and rise of this vibrant city. And vibrant it is! We met a lovely German couple; the wife spoke English. It was nice to spend time with them a couple of nights, and of course, now we are friends on LinkedIn and such. One of the many reasons we travel, right?
Well-dressed people everywhere, a very clean pedestrian town, darling expensive clothing shops, some touristy restaurants but some very good local restaurants and wine bars, and a fantastic Indian restaurant called Delhi Delice. We found a charming boulangerie that fast became our morning routine. Actually, my husband’s morning routine. He would venture out early and come back with two pain au chocolat from Jacob’s Boulangerie then make coffee in the little Bialetti espresso maker. Simple pleasures.
Jacob's Boulangerie
The Cathédrale Saint Sauveur is a don’t miss. Dating back to the 12th century, construction spanned seven centuries and combines various styles that are Baroque, Gothic and Romanesque. We also walked to Le Terrain des Peintres, Cezanne’s favorite vista of Sainte-Victoire Mountain (11,000 steps there and back!)
As luck would have it, this week was Aix’s back-to-school/summer clearance sale. My husband was the luckier and scored several shirts from Peter Polo Saint Tropez and two pairs of suede loafers from Bocage Homme.
But the highlight of this week, and the memory still in my mind six months later is a young gentleman pianist who came to the elegant 18th century Place d’ Albertas a few evenings and played the most marvelous classical music. Listening from the open French doors of our apartment or sitting on the wall of the elegant cast-iron fountain built in 1912 that rests in the middle of the square, I still hear Frederic Chopin’s Nocturne in F-sharp major, Op. 15 No. 2.
Place d' Albertas
Mar 24th, 2022, 09:45 AM
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I remember the boulangerie Jacob very well. We often bought sandwiches or quiche or something for a light dinner there. I thought their stuff was better than what we got at the ubiquitous Paul.
You probably know this, but the rue d'Italie, a block past the end of the Cours Mirabeau, has a lot of interesting food shops. Dammann tea has wonderful fragrant teas; I bought a lot to bring home.
There is a wonderful, if pricey, cafe at the Centre Caumont. They have excellent salads amid a charming ladies-who-lunch ambiance. Maybe not for everyone, but we're old and don't care if we're cool. Thre are a couple of restored 18th-century rooms that one can visit, including a lovely music room, apart from the museum,
God, I miss Aix! It's my favorite place in France. Have a wonderful time.
You probably know this, but the rue d'Italie, a block past the end of the Cours Mirabeau, has a lot of interesting food shops. Dammann tea has wonderful fragrant teas; I bought a lot to bring home.
There is a wonderful, if pricey, cafe at the Centre Caumont. They have excellent salads amid a charming ladies-who-lunch ambiance. Maybe not for everyone, but we're old and don't care if we're cool. Thre are a couple of restored 18th-century rooms that one can visit, including a lovely music room, apart from the museum,
God, I miss Aix! It's my favorite place in France. Have a wonderful time.
Mar 24th, 2022, 09:48 AM
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Oh wait this is a trip report, not a request for help with planning! On rereading I remembered that you were there several months ago, so hardly need ideas.
I'll be quiet now. But thanks for evoking my own happy memories quand meme.
I'll be quiet now. But thanks for evoking my own happy memories quand meme.
Mar 24th, 2022, 09:54 PM
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kanadajin, Yes, the old town and Mazarin district are both wonderful areas.
frenchaucour, an overdue trip report We did go to the cafe at Caumont -- stay tuned for week 4!
Thanks Karen! Where is your daughter nowadays? Did she move from Provence?
frenchaucour, an overdue trip report
We did go to the cafe at Caumont -- stay tuned for week 4!Thanks Karen! Where is your daughter nowadays? Did she move from Provence?
Mar 25th, 2022, 12:17 AM
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After a week of living life on Rue Espariat, we were ready to plan a bit more sightseeing and venturing out for Week 2. We walked to the Pavillon de Vendôme just outside of the Old Town. Built by Louis de Mercoeur, Duke of Vendôme and grandson of King Henry IV, the façade is a beautiful example of classical architecture with beautiful gardens. Inside this smallish manor is an art exhibit and while we were in Aix, there was an exhibition by Eric Bourret of his Sainte-Victoire photos. It made for a nice afternoon but not a must-see if short on time.
Pavillion Vendome
We continued to explore outside of the Old Town and hiked six miles to Parc Jourdan, Promenade de la Torse, Stade Georges-Carcassonne and Saint-Pierre Cemetery. My husband, being a soccer referee in the U.S. loved watching a local game. I appreciated the chance to sit before we continued on back toward town. Strolling through the old cemetery where the French artist and Post-Impressionist painter Paul Cézanne is buried, one remembers how old so many civilizations are.
With the intent of living normal life in France, we ventured out on another hike, something we do regularly at home. Today, we went seven miles to and from Oppidum d’Entremont. The gate was closed, but a staff member opened it to drive in so we (and another couple) followed the car in. This area was inhabited by the Celtic-Ligurians who arrived from the north in the 7th Century B.C. Entremont was created in 175 B.C. on a key route used by the Romans between the Alps and the Greek colony of Massalia, present-day Marseille. There we were, overlooking ancient stone ruins with Cezanne’s Mountain in the distance… yes, just living normal life! HA!
Perhaps the highlight of the week was a day trip to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Ralph, the most helpful young man at the Aix tourism office, gave me detailed instructions on how to take the Zou LER 17 bus on an hour's journey to this lovely town. Bridges, flowers, and waterwheels are dotted through it. Ducks were paddling and people strolling through the boutique-filled streets. We followed a path along the river to Partage des Eaux and had a lovely lunch at La Gringette with smoked trout and delicious Rosé wine. The Eglise Notre Dame des Anges is jaw-droppingly stunning. Built in the 12th century and renovated in the 18th century, it is an impressive example of baroque style. We bought some homemade Pistou to take back with us and a traditional burlap market bag from the darling shop Olive et Raisin. Caught the 4:55 p.m. bus back to Aix. Highly recommend a visit!
L 'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Pavillion Vendome
We continued to explore outside of the Old Town and hiked six miles to Parc Jourdan, Promenade de la Torse, Stade Georges-Carcassonne and Saint-Pierre Cemetery. My husband, being a soccer referee in the U.S. loved watching a local game. I appreciated the chance to sit before we continued on back toward town. Strolling through the old cemetery where the French artist and Post-Impressionist painter Paul Cézanne is buried, one remembers how old so many civilizations are.
With the intent of living normal life in France, we ventured out on another hike, something we do regularly at home. Today, we went seven miles to and from Oppidum d’Entremont. The gate was closed, but a staff member opened it to drive in so we (and another couple) followed the car in. This area was inhabited by the Celtic-Ligurians who arrived from the north in the 7th Century B.C. Entremont was created in 175 B.C. on a key route used by the Romans between the Alps and the Greek colony of Massalia, present-day Marseille. There we were, overlooking ancient stone ruins with Cezanne’s Mountain in the distance… yes, just living normal life! HA!
Perhaps the highlight of the week was a day trip to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Ralph, the most helpful young man at the Aix tourism office, gave me detailed instructions on how to take the Zou LER 17 bus on an hour's journey to this lovely town. Bridges, flowers, and waterwheels are dotted through it. Ducks were paddling and people strolling through the boutique-filled streets. We followed a path along the river to Partage des Eaux and had a lovely lunch at La Gringette with smoked trout and delicious Rosé wine. The Eglise Notre Dame des Anges is jaw-droppingly stunning. Built in the 12th century and renovated in the 18th century, it is an impressive example of baroque style. We bought some homemade Pistou to take back with us and a traditional burlap market bag from the darling shop Olive et Raisin. Caught the 4:55 p.m. bus back to Aix. Highly recommend a visit!
L 'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Mar 25th, 2022, 07:41 AM
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I may be wrong, but I believe your photo shows not the pavillon Vendome but the Caumont Center. They're both beautiful in that golden stone, but the Caumont doesn't have the caryatids.
I'm enjoying your adventures. Looking forward to more of them.
I'm enjoying your adventures. Looking forward to more of them.
