Opinionated London: Day 3 (York)
Jul 13th, 2013, 03:58 AM
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Opinionated London: Day 3 (York)
Today was daytrip day. After looking at the options, we settled on York over Oxford and Cambridge. It is fairly far but only 2 hours by train, not much longer than going to say, Bath. Unfortunately, York was a bad decision.
I'll admit the fact that it was freezing and windy may have affected my opinion, but the entire town is little more than a very genteel, and nicely packaged tourist trap. We went to the famous Betty's and stood in line for the same so-so tea, pastrys and surroundings that you can get anywhere. We went to the Castle Museum, which was dark, forbidding and rather amateurish. We walked around and saw lots of cutesy shops selling useless junk. We went to the shambles. A narrow street with more tourist shops selling more useless junk. The biggest disappoint was a place that advertised itself as the biggest cat paraphernalia store in the UK. Given all the potty UK cat ladies, I expected a feline Harrods. No, it was just a little hole in the wall store. I've seen many much bigger, better cat stores at home. Oh yeah, they have walls in York. (The train museum is too far off the beaten path on a day trip).
About the only reason to go there is the York Minster. Its main virtue is that it is very large. It is has some interesting bits too, I suppose. They run a very nice escorted free tour (after you pay to get in) and spent several hours there. We forked over extra to wear out our legs climbing up the tower so that we could see a few rooftops and freeze our cookies in the biting wind. Definitely not worth it, even on a good day.
With the free minibar, there hadn't been any reason to go out to drink, so this was our first chance to hit a British pub, The Golden Fleece, which is Probably the perfect name for a pub in York. It also got out of the weather and a chance to fortify ourselves for the trip back. We love British pubs. The UK might be expensive, but pubs are the one thing that are cheaper than at home, so we feel compelled to visit them as often as possible. The alcohol is just a bonus. We were also looking forward to getting some Cornish pasties, which I dearly love, to take back on the train for dinner. Unfortunately the real stores all closed early and we were forced to grab some rather blah Cornish pasties at the train station.
I'll admit the fact that it was freezing and windy may have affected my opinion, but the entire town is little more than a very genteel, and nicely packaged tourist trap. We went to the famous Betty's and stood in line for the same so-so tea, pastrys and surroundings that you can get anywhere. We went to the Castle Museum, which was dark, forbidding and rather amateurish. We walked around and saw lots of cutesy shops selling useless junk. We went to the shambles. A narrow street with more tourist shops selling more useless junk. The biggest disappoint was a place that advertised itself as the biggest cat paraphernalia store in the UK. Given all the potty UK cat ladies, I expected a feline Harrods. No, it was just a little hole in the wall store. I've seen many much bigger, better cat stores at home. Oh yeah, they have walls in York. (The train museum is too far off the beaten path on a day trip).
About the only reason to go there is the York Minster. Its main virtue is that it is very large. It is has some interesting bits too, I suppose. They run a very nice escorted free tour (after you pay to get in) and spent several hours there. We forked over extra to wear out our legs climbing up the tower so that we could see a few rooftops and freeze our cookies in the biting wind. Definitely not worth it, even on a good day.
With the free minibar, there hadn't been any reason to go out to drink, so this was our first chance to hit a British pub, The Golden Fleece, which is Probably the perfect name for a pub in York. It also got out of the weather and a chance to fortify ourselves for the trip back. We love British pubs. The UK might be expensive, but pubs are the one thing that are cheaper than at home, so we feel compelled to visit them as often as possible. The alcohol is just a bonus. We were also looking forward to getting some Cornish pasties, which I dearly love, to take back on the train for dinner. Unfortunately the real stores all closed early and we were forced to grab some rather blah Cornish pasties at the train station.
Jul 14th, 2013, 02:49 AM
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Grin. I don't think that they are planning to go to Blackpool although there are lions in London Zoo.
You'd think that the stained windows in York Minster would have attracted attention.
Mind you, if our enthusiastic friend had visited on 9th July 1984 he might have been stirred from his apathy.
Is it really so long ago?
You'd think that the stained windows in York Minster would have attracted attention.
Mind you, if our enthusiastic friend had visited on 9th July 1984 he might have been stirred from his apathy.
Is it really so long ago?
Jul 14th, 2013, 03:48 AM
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<<The train museum is too far off the beaten path on a day trip>>
It's right next to the train station.
What exactly were you expecting from an English city? It has museums, tick. It has a cathedral, tick. It has history, tick. It has shops, tick. Should it have had ye olde peasants wandering round in sackcloth? Jesters and troubadours? Knights in armour, jousting? Sounds like you want Disney rather than a real place that people live and work.
It's right next to the train station.
What exactly were you expecting from an English city? It has museums, tick. It has a cathedral, tick. It has history, tick. It has shops, tick. Should it have had ye olde peasants wandering round in sackcloth? Jesters and troubadours? Knights in armour, jousting? Sounds like you want Disney rather than a real place that people live and work.
Jul 14th, 2013, 05:45 AM
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missprism, it is ironic you brought that up - we were there about less than a week before that fire - I remember reading the news articles and being amazed how we were "just there".
wow... almost 30 years. that does date me.
wow... almost 30 years. that does date me.
Jul 14th, 2013, 06:50 AM
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And we loved York. The train museum is right by the train station and can easily fill 2-3 hours even if you are not a train enthusiast.
The Castle museum is dark in certain spots-wasn't part of it a jail? The Victorian street changes between night and day every 20 minutes. The gadgets throughout the decades area like washing machines, vacuum cleaners etc. is not dark and dingy. It was quite fascinating.
York Minster--stained glass, the treasurer's chamber, the choir practicing for a concert, the sheer size of the place--how can one not be impressed?
The Castle museum is dark in certain spots-wasn't part of it a jail? The Victorian street changes between night and day every 20 minutes. The gadgets throughout the decades area like washing machines, vacuum cleaners etc. is not dark and dingy. It was quite fascinating.
York Minster--stained glass, the treasurer's chamber, the choir practicing for a concert, the sheer size of the place--how can one not be impressed?
Jul 14th, 2013, 07:27 AM
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This "I wasn't expecting much" from the first installment may be this man's general outlook although he sometimes seems to like London. Regular references in the 3 episodes to minibar, liquor, alcohol, drinking, etc. may indicate it wasn't York's fault.
Jul 14th, 2013, 09:59 AM
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I agree - all that beautiful Yorkshire food ignored for a pre packed 'Cornish' Pasty, very sad.
I suppose it's horses for courses but at least most discerning people find York very beautiful, packed full of history etc.
As a Yorkshire local I have a 'pass' to the Castle Museum and never tire of the place. I'm really looking forward to next year's 1914, When the world changed forever exhibition.
http://www.yorkcastlemuseum.org.uk/Page/1914.aspx
I suppose it's horses for courses but at least most discerning people find York very beautiful, packed full of history etc.
As a Yorkshire local I have a 'pass' to the Castle Museum and never tire of the place. I'm really looking forward to next year's 1914, When the world changed forever exhibition.
http://www.yorkcastlemuseum.org.uk/Page/1914.aspx
Jul 14th, 2013, 10:35 AM
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Ooh, Morgana , I could murder a curd tart. I haven't had one for years.
I pity poor Mrs. Popov. She seems to want to pop into shops and enjoy herself seeing England. It must be no fun travelling with somebody who is determined not to be impressed by anything.
I pity poor Mrs. Popov. She seems to want to pop into shops and enjoy herself seeing England. It must be no fun travelling with somebody who is determined not to be impressed by anything.
Jul 14th, 2013, 01:36 PM
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I'm enjoying this, in a perverse sort of way. It's the sort of report that Cholmondeley_Warner would have written if he had ever made it to the United States. 
Sorry the UK isn't all you were hoping for, popov.
Lee Ann
Sorry the UK isn't all you were hoping for, popov.
Lee Ann
Jul 14th, 2013, 02:21 PM
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Horses for courses. York is a tourist city that's why people go there. I for one loved all the higgly piggly lanes the narrow streets and the little out of the way churches. Holy Trinity is my favorite uneven stone floor and pew boxes. I also liked lousy walking the walls and getting a new perspective on the city.
And yes, I have to laugh that he hates everything about England but the tourist pubs.
. I hope he saw the exhibits of York Minster showing the Roman fort and how the church was built upon it. I hope you find a place you enjoy on your trip.
And yes, I have to laugh that he hates everything about England but the tourist pubs.
. I hope he saw the exhibits of York Minster showing the Roman fort and how the church was built upon it. I hope you find a place you enjoy on your trip.
Jul 15th, 2013, 12:55 AM
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...It's the sort of report that Cholmondeley_Warner would have written if he had ever made it to the United State...
Yes. He would have scorned the main tourist sites and would have enthused about things that many Americans might not even have heard of. I can imagine New York cops having a lot of fun with him.
BTW, I have discovered that Betty's by Post have curd tarts and fat rascals. http://www.bettys.co.uk/
I see that they now do macaroons.
Yes. He would have scorned the main tourist sites and would have enthused about things that many Americans might not even have heard of. I can imagine New York cops having a lot of fun with him.
BTW, I have discovered that Betty's by Post have curd tarts and fat rascals. http://www.bettys.co.uk/
I see that they now do macaroons.
Jul 15th, 2013, 08:09 AM
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Yes, I do get fed up with the 'Bettys is a tourist trap' line that I see on here.
My local branch is Northallerton and we often go on a winter morning for brunch. It's always packed full of locals - and Yorkshire folk wouldn't spend their hard earned cash in a 'tourist trap', believe me.
Bettys by post is excellent. I have used it several times for birthday presents and for a friend going through a tough time who was so pleased to received Bettys tea, chocs, cake etc in a beautiful parcel.
As for macaroons - the Harrogate Harlow Carr branch has been selling raspberry ones with fresh raspberries in the middle of them and they are divine.
My local branch is Northallerton and we often go on a winter morning for brunch. It's always packed full of locals - and Yorkshire folk wouldn't spend their hard earned cash in a 'tourist trap', believe me.
Bettys by post is excellent. I have used it several times for birthday presents and for a friend going through a tough time who was so pleased to received Bettys tea, chocs, cake etc in a beautiful parcel.
As for macaroons - the Harrogate Harlow Carr branch has been selling raspberry ones with fresh raspberries in the middle of them and they are divine.
Jul 15th, 2013, 11:17 AM
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Morgana, PLEASE! I am trying to lose weight and your descriptions of sweets are mouthwatering! Good thing I live out of town now or I would be running down the street to buy something bad for me.
Jul 15th, 2013, 12:20 PM
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<<The train museum is too far off the beaten path on a day trip>>
<It's right next to the train station.>
It's in the opposite direction from town.
<What exactly were you expecting from an English city? It has museums, tick. It has a cathedral, tick. It has history, tick. It has shops, tick. Should it have had ye olde peasants wandering round in sackcloth? Jesters and troubadours? Knights in armour, jousting? Sounds like you want Disney rather than a real place that people live and work.>
I was expecting *good* museums and real history, not tourist trap crap. If I just want a real place where people live and work, I could have gone to Cleveland. And they have better museums, too.
<It's right next to the train station.>
It's in the opposite direction from town.
<What exactly were you expecting from an English city? It has museums, tick. It has a cathedral, tick. It has history, tick. It has shops, tick. Should it have had ye olde peasants wandering round in sackcloth? Jesters and troubadours? Knights in armour, jousting? Sounds like you want Disney rather than a real place that people live and work.>
I was expecting *good* museums and real history, not tourist trap crap. If I just want a real place where people live and work, I could have gone to Cleveland. And they have better museums, too.
Jul 15th, 2013, 02:04 PM
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The train museum is about 5 mins walk from the train station in York...o a return trip to the train station to get back to town would have been 10 mins tops. We did it on our day trip and it was the highlight for sure...my dad is a huge train fan, but even my hubby and I enjoyed the few hours we spent there.
